Water Temp/Fuel gauge not working

[Deleted User]

In my 54 Special is there a way to test the water Temperature/Fuel gauge. Both gauges have new sending units and the wiring seems to be correct yet the gauge won't work. The telltale lights work so that tells me that the gauge is properly grounded, I think.

Any ideas greatly appreciated.

dougson

Were they working before? These gauges are quite primitive and exposed, and the internal and external wiring must be very brittle by now. I'm afraid you may be looking at removing the dash pod. It's not all that difficult. I have gauges I won't be using and may work. You are welcome to them if you want.

RonS

Is there voltage to the gauges/ and to the voltage drop (resistor)? I believe that these gauges operate on @ 3volts and one regulator reduces the 6 volt to 3v, as on the 53s

Geoff

The voltage regulator is located behind the dash and supplies 5 volts to the gauges. this is most likely the culprit if both gauges have stopped working. It has nothing to do with the warning lights, they work on their own circuits. You need to get a volt meter to the output of the regulator and see what is happening.

RonS

Geoff, Thanks for the correction, re, the voltage( 5not3). Do you know if the 1950 and 1951 gauges are wired the same as the 53? I found an old gauge cluster assembly in an old box, however the wiring is differant than the scematic for the 53s( and the way mine is wired as well).The wires are all clipped off about 6 inches, and the wires are in a series, similar to gauges on a Lucas(UK) car. This would not permit an independant operation of the amp and oil warning lights with a regulator in the line, although the assembly is original to some Hudson of that time, I can't figure which. Also, where can we obtain a voltage regulator for these and part number.

Geoff

The voltage regulator is a bi-metal unit that cuts off at 5 volts, no matter what the input voltage. this gives a pulsating voltage, but as the gauges are slow acting, this does not reflect in the gauge readings. I'm unsure of the change-over date, whether 1950 was the last year, or '51, but earlier models were were different, with the gauges parking at the full on fuel and hot on temp, and coming down when voltage applied. However for the '54 models you need the voltage regulator to be working. To check the gauges are working, temporarily jumper 6 volts to the voltage side of the gauge, ground the sender side, and it should immediately deflect to full. Sorry, I'm in New Zealand, and don't have a supply source for regulators, but somebody like Dave Kostansek maybe able to help.

[Deleted User]

Thanks to everyone who responded. The fuel sending unit is Model 99A-9275 which is for a Ford, ordered from Dale Carpenter, which I was told on this forum would work in a Hudson. Here is what I have done.

1. Using a test light, confirmed that there was power to the gauges.

2. Lightly touched a ground wire to each gauge and they both responded.

3. I pulled the fuel sending unit an moved the arm to what would be a full tank.
The needle in the gauge moved up then moved back down to the start position.
Go figure.

4. Talked to Doug at Carpenter where I got the fuel sending unit. Per his
instructions I measured the ohms. At "empty' the ohms should read in the 80's.
Mine read 34. Maybe a faulty unit.

RonS

Thanks Geoff,I looked up the parts number and 51,52 & 53 use that regulator, but the 50 and earlier have no part number. The question is, does any one have source for the instument cluster constant voltage regulator for the 51 52 53 & 54s? Will 12volt styles for, lets say a 65 Mustang, work? I am led to believe that the 12 volt Ford gauges operate on 5volt as well. Is that right?

Hudson Grandpa

Geoff & Ron S:

Ron S didn't say if he knows that he has the correct gauges. If you do not have the correct temp gauge, nothing will show. Has to be proper ohms. Same with the fuel gauge. I had to try two diff gauges for the fuel tank to get it to work. Also the wiring had to be correct. I also grounded the tank body to the frame. It now works but only half way. Got temp gauge from vintage coach. I know Ron S, it's very frustrating. But when you finally figure it out, you will say, Oh Man!!! My words were different! If the wiring is 55 yrs old make sure there is no break in the wiring anywhere along the circuit, or frayed. Do you have the wiring schematic for the 54? As to the voltage reg. I've been into the wiring underneath the dash not knowing what I am doing, being dumb enough not to unhook the battery, got bit, and said to myself, now I went and did it. But then turned the key, started the car and all lights worked. After 55 yrs the voltage reg is a pretty sturdy peice of equip. I like the way they say just say, unloosen eight bolts and the cluster will come off forward. Theres only a certain amount of time that you can stand on your head before you get @#$%load of blood in your brain trying to find the damn bolts.

Oh well I still love my 54......

Dave

Hudson Grandpa

Doug: Been there done that from Carpenter.. Would you like to have mine?

Got tank sending unit from Vintage Coach. Works, but need to get in there and adjust the arm.

Dave

[Deleted User]

Thanks again everyone. Before I go any further I am going to swap the gauge out with one from my parts car and see if that helps. Darn this is fun, that cement floor in my garage is really cold.

Does Albrights sell a different unit than the one from Dale Carpenter?

Doug

Hudson Grandpa

Doug:


Yes.

RonS

My gauges are working well, but Doug opened a can of worms, in so far as I coud not find a source for the CV Regulator that was suspect.Re, prior reply. Ron

Park_W

Doug, from the symptoms you've described it seems you might have a problem with the temp and gas gauge sensors not being grounded (or broken wires to both). You've said that if you ground the "sensor side" of the gauges they do respond, so the problem pretty much has to be the wire going to the sensor, the sensor not being grounded, or the sensor(s) being faulty. To determine what's what, try using a jumper wire to definitely ground the main part of the temp sensor. And at the gas tank, run a temporary wire from the housing of the sending unit to ground.