Rear end gearing for stepdown

Unknown
edited November -1 in Street Rods
Hello all, Ola from Sweden here. I have a 1950 C8 which is slightly modified, used to be on the forum but sadly missed it for some time. I have a few humble questions to which I've so far found no answers to via the search function. (Maybe due to my insufficient english :) )

Anyway, here goes:

1 Rear axle gearing. I've fitted a csb 305 and a 700R4 which works nicely. However I would like to lower the engine revs at highway speed. Does anybody know of gears and pinions that work in a Hudson axle housing? It's also "singing" a little bit so I guess it needs a fix anyway. What's the gearing ratio today?

2 Leaks. I've fitted new rubber everywhere according to instructions and sealed the welds and windows, but still with every rainfall the front floor looks is flooded. Have tried to find the leaks with hose and flashlights but still no success. Anybody have a trick for this problem?

I'll post a few pix of my ride. Thanks for any anwers.

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    edited January 2011
    Swede, Welcome back! Your 50 model has a Hudson produced rear end. If I were you I would swap to a 53-54 stepdown rear end. They are the same as a Dana 44 and there are literally hundreds of rear gearset ratios available. If you could find one from a 53-54 stepdown with a hydromatic trans you may be able to get it fairly cheap, and, the ratio would probably work great with the 700r4 trans, as is.
    Maybe some one else will have a better suggestion but that is my best recomendation, short of buying a a new replacement like a ford 9 inch, and they are not cheap.
    As for the leaks, Have you checked the gasket ( S shaped ) that covers the top door hinge. Many time they are overlooked when replacing the weatherstriping. It is a seperate part.
    Just my opinion...
    Bob Hickson
  • MikeWA
    MikeWA Senior Contributor
    I guess I would broaden the search to a rear end from any 48-54 with automatic transmission. I certainly agree that the 53-54 ("Dana") would be preferable, but I don't think you have a big selection of parts over in Sweden. The biggest drawback of the 48-52 is that the bearings are very expensive- usually about $120 each, if you can find them!
  • Lee ODell
    Lee ODell Senior Contributor
    edited January 2011
    Good looking car you have. Here is a formula to determine the gear ratio you want, driving down the highway.

    MPH X GEAR RATIO X 336 DIVIDED BY TIRE DIAMETER (INCHES) X OVERDRIVE RATIO .70 = RPM

    For example: with a 3.08 gear ratio. 70 MPH x 3.O8 gear ratio x 336 divided by 28 inch tall tire x .70 O/D ratio = 1811 RPM

    I hope this will be helpful to you.

    Lee O'Dell
  • Marconi
    Marconi Senior Contributor
    You have 2 choices for Hudson Hydra-matic rear ends and ratios. The 51 and early 52 cars with the Hudson built rear axle had a 3.56 ratio, the late 52 to 54 rear axle is a Spicer model 44 and was a 3.08 ratio. On the Hudson reaqr axle the gearset comes out in one piece, the "pumpkin" and the Spicer has a sheet metal rear cover that bolts on but you have to disassemble the differential to change the ratio. Good luck.
  • Just to let you know, one of the Hudsonites, likes the dana 44, 272 ratio, if you can find them. they come up on ebay every so often.

    Peter
  • Another point is they bolt into the hudson rearend!

    Peter
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    edited January 2011
    Regarding your water leak, the water may not be coming through the windshield. It might be coming in at the ventilator, or it might be coming in through the front seam in the front door opening. Hudson had trouble sealing the area around the front hinges. The water would travel along the tops of the front fenders, drop into the gap between the fenders and the doors, and work its way down from there, into the car. Do you have the correct vertical rubber gasket between the front of the doors, and the cowl section? Also, Hudson made thin flat metal plates that would be attached to the front edge of the door, to cover the place where the hinge attached to the door. This evidently provided a good surface for the rubber gasket to seal against.

    Here's a photo of the plate they used (dealers would install these, so you may find that a Hudson vendor has some for sale. I got this from a Hudson flea market).
  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    FYI
    If I read your Post correctly you have a Chevy v8 with 700R4 Overdrive in your Hudson. Believe me you are way too low geared evenwith an Overdrive since Chevy had as high as 2.79 gears whereas'50 Hudson had either 4.10 or 4.55 Ratio (if was Overdrive Car).I would look for a rear End around 3.00 or 3.23 depending on your terrain.

    Like mentioned earlier, a 3.08 out of a Hudson with Automatic Trans would be ideal. However, I like Ford Rear's because of number of Ratio's available, many housing Widths, Identical Ujoint flange, and 4 1/2" wheel bolt pattern as Hudson.
    Narrowest Rears are in '57 Ford, early Bronco and Econoline. Some of those rears have larger bolt circle but axles & drums can be redrilled 4 1/2".
  • Hello again,
    and thank you all for kind and knowledgeable answers.

    About the rear axle; I'll start hunting for sutiable replacements. A bit tricky here in Sweden though. And an E-bay find would be nice but ouch! the transportation cost.

    I'll keep you posted on the progress if it is of interest.

    On sealing: Yes, my feeling is the a-pillar and/or hinges. I have the vertical rubber seal, BUT for some reason did not fit the sheet metal parts in the picture. So those will be installed shortly.:cheer:


    I have one more question about speedometer gearing Hudson VS 700R4. I managed to fit a cable betwwen the two but my speedo shows way too low numbers (maybe 50%, I have it written down somewhere) and I know it's possible to change the speedo drive gears in the 700 R4. This will of course be affected if I also change rear axle gear ratio.

    But my question is if anyone has found a roughly sutiable set of speedo gears (does nt need to be super exact) for the 700R4 to drive a Hudson Speedo?

    Thanks again for all your experienced answers.

    (I really must change my avatar name soon)

    Ola (the Swede)
  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    FYI
    Type in Search Window www.transmissioncenter.org for formula and Gears. Your Chevy Dealers have them too.
    HOWEVER, Wait for Speedo Gear until you change out Rear End Gears....The easist swap would be to buy a '51 -54 Hudson Rear with 3.08 Ratio
  • Hello all

    and thanks again for your thoughts on my build.

    Right now the whole drive train sits on the workshop floor again and I've started asking around for a 52-54 Hudson axle, but as some of you already guessed it's kind of hard to stumble over one of those in Sweden. And container freight from the US is slow and expensive. Might end up there anyway.

    The working theory for the moment is to find a Volvo Axle from the 700-900 series with a good diferential brake. (they came with and without) The bolt pattern for the wheels are the same, and there should be no problem finding one with 3.08 gearing. Still not sure about lenghts but shortening is always possible. My main concern is that the yoke is centrally placed on the axle hump (Volvo)instead of low on the hump (Hudson). Since my car is lowered 4' this may give a clearance problem.

    Aaaand if I go the whole way with a new axle: Why not build some ladders bars to hang it in and mabe even throw in a coupple of airbags? Has this conversion been made by anyone? Major disadvantages?


    Greatly thankful for your answers.

    (and great tip on the speedo conv, Ol' racer)


    Ola
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