Wanted: Mustang II front end for 39 112 Coupe

[Deleted User]

Hello,

Im in need a hub to hub mustang II front end for my 1939 Hudson 112 Coupe. Im down to a clean frame and ready to build it up!
Anyone have any leads?

Thanks

Mike

Browniepetersen

You can buy all the parts new from a number of local hot rod companies or you can visit your local salvage yard. If you go the salvage yard option it has been my experience that after you fix all the worn parts you are very close to new items. If your plan is to drive the XXX out of your car once it is done I would recommend new parts...

Gary

As Brownie already posted, you may want to buy new. I believe Fatman Fabrications builds a Mustang II conversion for a '38 Hudson frame. I think this would be a good place to start as the 38/39 frames can't be much different, unless someone else knows better and can correct my assumption.
Gary

lsfirth

Hi Mike,

Yes, there's a long list of MII fabricators. I went with Fatman for the stub frame, and JW Rod Garage for all the components. Had good luck with both of these suppliers. But mine is a '49, I imagine they cover a '38 as well. If I were to do it over, I'd probably go with one of the JWRG "kits", since the Fatman frame was kind of expensive, but a kit would require a little more "figuring out", but your '38 probably has narrower frames which migh lend itself nicely to a kit. Chaz on this forum used an early model Camero sub frame (I think) but his is also a stepdown. Sounds like a very cool project that you're in the middle of.....post some pictures when you have time!

Good luck!
Lee

Ol racer

FYI
Take the advice mentioned ppreviously and dont get a uaed front end from a Salvage Yard. Any of the Suspension Suppliers in Rod & Custm Mag are good. Some are more pricey than others but seen them complete as low as $1200.

I like to fabricate so my latest '37 Project Is retaining the straight Axle with Torque Arms, but removed the leaf springs in favor of Coil Overs using the strong Shock Towers along with a Monti Carlo R & Pinion assy.

[Deleted User]

pics in the next post.

[Deleted User]

Here are a couple quick pics of the build. The body is off the frame (sitting in the garage that we pulled it from) and the frame has been wire brushed and POR'ed.

Ol racer

FYI
Looking Great. You cant go wrong with POR 15. Give one of those Chassis Co's a call with your frame measurements for Mustang11 since your ready....

Unknown

I used a Fat Man on my 46 and it went very smooth. I had looked in all the wrecking yards and it came to the fact that the ones I found would take more time and money than it would be worth. No matter what one you use the setup and measuring evrything several times will pay off.FatMans instructions are simple to understand then it is up to you.I had many pictures but my computer crashed lost them all.
Best of luck and keep us informed.
Sonny

[Deleted User]

yea, Ive read a lot about the POR. I also used it to coat the inside of the body.

[Deleted User]

Here are some pics of the new front end. Anything that looks old is, Ive kept some pieces in the box till final build.

Lee ODell

Hi Mike,

It's looking good. I second the use of adding POR 15 top coat. Even though my frame is not exposed to direct sunlight the POR 15 still oxidizes because I didn't add the POR 15 top coat.

I will add another suggestion.

Adding gussets from the spring top hat, down to the suspension crossmember.
From my experience doing front wheel alignments for a living, the side rails on street rods converted to independent suspension tend to twist without the gussets. This can happen even if the frame rails are boxed. The original frame rails were designed with verticale up and down pressures on the frame rails. On independent suspensions there is tremendous horizontal and twisting forces working against the side rails. Supporting the spring top hat with gussets to the crossmenber will make it very difficult for any frame rail twist. If room permits make the gussets as long as possible for greater support and strength. Automobile manufacturers have been doing this for decades when they went to independent suspensions. Their gussets were designed into the crossmember therefore not noticed as such.

Not all top hats set the same height on top of the frame rails. The taller the top hat the greater leverage there is to twist the frame rail without gussets.

On the independent suspension conversion of my car, I added gussets from both the front and rear sides of the spring top hat down to the crossmember. Then I welded a cover on top of the gussets from the inside edge of top hat down to crossmember. Makes it near bullet prof. For better appearance, radius the welds. It's a little more work to install but well worth the effort.

Some kit manufacturers incorporate the gussets into their kits and others do not.

I hope this information will be beneficial to you.

Have a great day.

Lee O'Dell

PS Great pictures. One more suggestion. I see you have horizontal gussets on the lower control arm brackets. You might consider vertical gussets also. Just a thought.

[Deleted User]

Lee,

I guess i should over coat that frame.

As for the gussets, now would be time for me to do it. Do you have a quick pic of your setup as an example? Sound like the right thing to do,

Thanks

Mike

[Deleted User]

Here is the IFS on my '28 Essex. This was for a 39 Chev from Heidt's.
Dan

Lee ODell

Hi Mike

I took some pictures of the gussets for you. Hopefully my daughter in law will come by tonight to show me how to put the pictures into the computer. I will post the pictures for you as soon as possible.

Keep us posted on the progress of you project.

Have a great day.
Lee O'Dell

Browniepetersen

Lee, is there time to save you from the Ford Family of Fixer-uppers? I have been using Chevrolet front ends for quite a while and I like them a lot better. And actually you can usually get a better price on them? Chevy II parts work really great. My current project uses the Chevrolet S-10 system.

Lee ODell

Hi Brownie,

It's to late. The conversion is already finished.

I did the Mustang II conversion many rears ago myself, because I had seen so many poorly done conversions and how some frame rails were twisting because of inadequate gusseting. I wanted to express the importance of making this particular conversion strong for thousands of trouble free miles for Mike and anyone else that have already started or finished this particular conversion.

Pictures coming as soon as they are loaded into the computer.

Perhaps you can start a thread on the S-10 conversion. I have not seen that one and would be interested to see how it is done.

Alway good to hear from you. Have a great day.

Lee O'Dell

P.S. No matter what suspension conversion is used, remember the forces on it are not just up and down. Every time you used the brakes to stop, the lower control arm is being forced rearward and the upper control arm is being forced forward as well. The heavier the car, bigger the brakes, bigger the tires, longer the control arms, taller the upper control arm mounts the greater the forces exerted on the frame and its brackets. Prepare accordingly.

Gary

Thanks for the pictures. I printed them for future reference!
Gary

Lee ODell

Mike,
Here are the pictures how I gusseted the upper spring hat down to the crossmember. There are three pictures of the right side and three pictures of the left side. I hope these will be of help.

Also, you can see the POR-15 oxidation without POR-15 top coat. The frame has never been in direct sunlight. I'm sure it would be much worse in direct sunlight.

Gotta fix the date setting on my camera, It's off by a few months.

Keep up the good work.

Lee O'Dell

rod_n_hudson wrote:

Lee,

I guess i should over coat that frame.

As for the gussets, now would be time for me to do it. Do you have a quick pic of your setup as an example? Sound like the right thing to do,

Thanks

Mike