Agh generator
uhm so i took my car for a nice drive because i just got it to pull gas from the tank and not from a can
stoked!!! but my battery was dead when i came back to start it again.
My question is should i have a ground from the generator to the block or to the battery or something to ground the gen? Because thats what i think is the problem why its not chargin. havnt done any tests but idk maybe im missing something.
PLZ help
Zach.

My question is should i have a ground from the generator to the block or to the battery or something to ground the gen? Because thats what i think is the problem why its not chargin. havnt done any tests but idk maybe im missing something.
PLZ help
Zach.
0
Comments
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The generator is grounded through the bracket to the engine, and the battery's positive terminal is grounded to the frame and engine. (Does your car have a separate ground strap so that both the engine and frame have grounds?)
Have you consulted your car's wiring diagram to be sure everything is wired correctly?
Also, you might do a continuity test on some of the wires to make sure the circuit's not broken within the insulation, or at the end terminals.0 -
There is normally a ground wire from the generator to the regulator, but the generator itself is grounded through it's mounting. You had better check the output at the "A" terminal of the generator, it should be 7.2 to 7.5 volts with the headlights on and the engine at 1000 r.p.m. or more.0
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I have attached a 51 Hudson Chassis wiring diagram. Down load the diagram by clicking on same and print it ... you should beable to make the part that covers the wiring for the generator to regulator and the battery larger for more convenient viewing .
Use the Hudson mechanical proceedures manual forund on the HET website for a proper operational description as well as the trouble shooting section provided.
Good Luck0 -
Thanks for the info! but im not sure if i have that ground strap to the engine. Can someone post a pic please? should i like sand down the spots where the gen meets bracket and block for continuity?
I used an aftermarket ground cable that bypasses the battery tray bolt connection and goes straight to the motor mount if that does anything.
Thanks0 -
Majumbo wrote:Thanks for the info! but im not sure if i have that ground strap to the engine. Can someone post a pic please? should i like sand down the spots where the gen meets bracket and block for continuity?
I used an aftermarket ground cable that bypasses the battery tray bolt connection and goes straight to the motor mount if that does anything.
Thanks
If you have a multimeter check from continuity (i.e. short) between the positive terminal of your battery and the case of the generator. If you have a short when selecting the ohms X1 scale then your generator is grounded. Hudson stepdown cars achieve ground path continuity via a set of braided metal straps. One strap goes from the positive terminal of the battery to a stud on the battery box. Attached to the battery box stud is another braded strap that is connected to the top of the right motor mount when facing into the engine bay. These straps achieve ground continuity to the engine block via the motor mount plate that sits on the motor mount and the nut and lockwasher combination that holds the braided straps to the motor. The surfaces that touch the strap should be clear of paint to achieve a proper ground path. This ground path continues to the generator case via the metal of the engine mount, engine block, and finally the generator mounting bracket.0 -
Yes, do clean your cable connections so everything is "bright and tight". Make SURE (by the way) that your battery cable (the one hooked to the NEG terminal) is the six volt type (assuming you haven't changed this car to 12 volts). This will be much thicker than the one in your "modern" car.
Alex Burr has thoughtfully scanned and uploaded a 1948-52 Hudson shop manual to his Hudson literature site: http://hetclub.org/burr/manuals/1948-1952_shop_service_manual.pdf Do consult the "electrical" section for tips on troubleshooting your problem, and suggested tests you can do. The wiring diagram is there, too.
Some Hudsons are wired differently but generally, but on mine the ground strap runs from the generator bracket bolt directly to the battery + terminal. Then, I have a second ground strap from the transmission, to the frame. (The Hudson manual shows the strap from the generator bracket to the frame, and another one from that point, to the battery + terminal. The point is: ground the engine AND the frame, to the battery with separate straps.0 -
If Jon's link doesn't work try IE - sometimes Firefox won't open the site.
You can, if all else fails, go to the home page @ http://hetclub.org/burr/lithomepage.htm - click on Manuals under 1948-1954.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0 -
what happens if im using a 12 volt? smaller gauge wire means more resistance?0
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6 volt wiring is twice as heavy as 12 volt, so if you have the original loom, in good shape, then you will have less resistance on a 12 volt system.0
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I meant to say I'm using 12volt battery cables on a 6volt system0
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By all means, get rid of those 12 volt cables and get some 6 volt units. You're already causing yourself problems. Even if you have to go to a welding supply and buy bulk wire and ends and make them up yourself, DO IT! The 6volt cables probably aren't causing your charging problems right now , but they WILL cause other problems soon! Good luck. Steve.0
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As luck would have it, I was flogging my Wasp home from work Friday and had to stop for "supplies". The warm restart took a lot of cranking; the battery was likely down a little by the time it started.
A minute after resuming speed on the freeway, the AMP light came on. Temp stayed at twelve o'clock, so I knew the belt was OK. When I got home I found no loose wires or sticking brushes. I was trying to remember the tests for reg and gen. HUDSON 308's post is right on time with the info! Thanks!
R/ Roger.0
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