Block Deck - Cleaning at Home

[Deleted User]

What is a good procedure for cleaning the block deck to prepare for a new
headgasket? Engine is still installed.

Cylinders tops and walls look good. Walls feel good. Only one has a little carbon lip. Two exhaust valves have a tan-ish color like a lean plug has some times.

I was planning on using a Dremel with a shop vac right next to it. Wire brush on the Dremel.

wano1949

Sounds like a good plan.

Cover the piston side of the block with cardboard or similar material and clean around the valves first. Crank the engine by hand until both valves seat and clean block around that cylinder and then crank and move to the next cylinder.

Make sure that you don't let any debris get into an open intake valve hole. After assembly they would be sucked into piston area and possibly cause damage.

When you clean around the pistons, cover the valve area with a cloth down the length of engine to keep debris off.

Stuff an oily rag into each cylinder as you work your way from one end of engine to the other.

Crank the pistons down by hand about two inches as you go, stuff a rag on top and keep an oily cloth covering the part of the top of block you're not working on so that you minimize the chance of something getting into the cylinders.

Blow out the space between the piston and cylinder as you go with an air compressor to dislodge any thing that might have got past the oiled rag.

Point is to keep all cylinders covered as much as possible during whole process.

Look for cracks in top of block and cylinders to see if any future problems might be lurking.

Buy a thread tap that is made for cleaning blind thread holes and clean block side, blow holes out with air, run head bolts on a wire wheel/grinder and clean bolts & threads up.

Check head bolts and see if they are corroded or damaged anywhere and replace if you find any damaged, make sure that the head bolts have a hardened flat washer on them when you reinstall. I've seen a few engines that had work done on them in the past where the washers were left off.

Use anti seize compound to make the job easier for the next time or the next mechanic.

[Deleted User]

Thank you.

You mention washers. Were they OEM? If so, my engine must have been apart at one time as I do not have washers.

Thread tap/Chaser tap will be purchased. I will get a sheet of steel to use to protect the area of the block I am not working on.

wano1949

Sorry for not replying sooner. I don't know for sure if they were installed at factory but I would think so. Someone on here could answer that better than I could.

A flat washer spreads the pressure of the tightened bolt head out over a larger area around the bolt hole, whether on a cylinder head or anything else.

A hardened washer will not let the edges of the bolt head dig into the area around the bolt hole and makes for a more accurate torque reading.

I looked at the five engines I have, from 232 to 308 some have washers and some don't. One has washers on some bolts and not on others.

I guess that once the engine head was removed it depended on which "Goober" was working on it as to where they were used again. LOL

They would be a necessity on an aluminum head.

A little anti seize compound wouldn't hurt on the head bolt re install either.

Good luck on the cleaning.

PAULARGETYPE

I WOULD NOT USE THE OLD HEAD BOLTS THERE OVER 60 YEARS OLD AND JUST HOW MANY TIMES HAVE THEY BEEN TORQUED??? WASHER ALWAYS SPREDS OUT THE PREASURE BETTER IN MY EYES I HAVE NEW HEAD BOLTS GRADE 8 3'' LONG THERE 7/16 IF YOU WORKING ON A 55 OR 56 I HAVE THE 1/2 ONES ALSO THERE NOT ALOT OF MONEY $25 FOR BOTH BOLTS AND WASHERS + $5 POSTAGE OF SEE ME AT DOC'S MEET THIS WEEK END I'LL HAVE THEM THERE EMAIL ME HETHUDSON1957@AOL.COM DROP THE HET FROM THE EMAIL IT'S JUST THERE TO KILL THE SPAM BUGS

Lee ODell

Pacemaker500 wrote:

Thank you.

You mention washers. Were they OEM? If so, my engine must have been apart at one time as I do not have washers.

Thread tap/Chaser tap will be purchased. I will get a sheet of steel to use to protect the area of the block I am not working on.

Duct tape works good to cover area needing protection. Easy to work with. Just a thought.
Lee O'Dell

[Deleted User]

Paul, are these head bolts with 3/4 or 7/8 heads? Im 70 years old and have been torqed many times and I still am going strong. lol. Used to hang around Hudson garage and was told only motors with aluminium heads need washers. Never saw any iron heads with washers.

[Deleted User]

ps I mean 5\8 not 7\8.

junkcarfann

When I am done with all scraping, etc, I take a spray can of brake cleaner and a clean rag and spray then wipe a small area. You would be surprised how much yuck is there. A clean rag will show you. Do it to the entire block and head.

hornet53

I always use new headbolts (with Anti-Seize) and washers. Small price for a lot of extra insurance.
Also, I use 2 old head bolts with the heads cut off as locating pins for re-installing the head. it keeps the gasket in place and makes getting the head down in place much easier when you're working all alone. Start a few of the new bolts then remove the "locating pins".

dwardo99

One trick I use on any job like this is, after I think everything is clean, I spread some thick grease around the top of the cylinder bore, extending below the ridge. Then rotate the engine at least one turn. Any crud that fell down and is sitting on top of the top ring will likely stick to the grease and then can be wiped off with a rag. You'd be surprised what turns up.