head studs

Unknown

would like to use new headstuds for the 37T motor,as i snapped a few getting them out.A friend has suggested using bolts rather than studs and nuts,but if i can source new studs,would rather stay original.Any info?
Les,do you stock them?

Huddy42

Sorry Skip, don't have them in stock, I would stick to the studs if I were you .

Les.

oldhudsons

you should be able to go to an automotive supply shop or a machine shop & get new ones.
When I needed to get some big studs for a Hornet block went to a hot rod supply co.
Studs the only way to go with a high compression engine like a Hornet, esp. if high compression or milled head, but for a '37 T that wouldn't be necessary.

Kdancy

ARP is where I found these studs, nuts and washers--
http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm97/studebaker2/37 Terraplane engine/

Uncle Josh

I couldn't find studs readilly so I used grade 8 bolts on my 47 Truck 212. You'll have to try them and maybe cut a couple of them off to make sure they don't bottom out before they're tight, but they've been running in my daily driver for over 4 years now.

oldhudsons

K - sure a "sano" looking engine!

oldhudsons

advantages of using studs: 1. authentic 2. when need to remove head easier to get nuts off than trying to pull bolts out of block 3. when studs in place automatically aligns head to head gasket, no worries about it shifting out of place, just drop head right down onto gasket 4. it would seem to me you'd get a more accurate reading when using the torque wrench as just turning the nuts on the studs rather than turning the whole length of the bolt into the block.

[Deleted User]

After a year or two, have fun trying to remove the head. Use bolts with with threads lubed. Walt.

onerare39

walts garage-53 wrote:

After a year or two, have fun trying to remove the head. Use bolts with with threads lubed. Walt.

Walt,

If you lube the threads doesn't that change the torque setting? Also, do you need to use non hardening thread sealer on the bolts since they are going into the water jacket?

John Forkner

Geoff

I would use studs, as per original. I've never had problems getting a head off, unless using an alloy head. I once had a '36 Graham with an alloy head, and we got it off in four pieces in the finish! But with an iron head and proper length studs you can't go wrong.
Geoff

Terraplane33

I would also stay with the studs.
From a pure mechanical point of view, studs are better fasteners than bolts, by using bolts, there is much more torsion as the effort is applied on top and the tread is down in the bloc.
Sometimes, it's more convenient to use bolts as studs might make it difficult to remove parts.

Uncle Josh

OK, I haven't seen a good source for a set of studs yet. Seems like a good item for Dale. I haven't been able to remove a set from a splasher yet without breaking several, so there is a market for them.

If I could find a set easilly I wouldn't monkey with bolts.

Can anybody help here?

schillaz

I have had good luck using McMaster-carr company for my 53 7x engine studs.



Here are the ones i ordered:

Head: part #91563A226

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3164/=dobe3s


Intake/exhaust: part #91563A130

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3164/=dobezu

Geoff

Good luck trying to get McMaster Carr to send anything outside the U.S. I tried and they point-blank refused.

Kdancy

Torque chart --
http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdf
and
http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_torque_us.shtml

http://arp-bolts.com/ I called ARP and got the studs, nuts and washers for the 37 engine.

Terraplane33

ARP are well known for head studs, even here in Europe. Their quality est well above expectations in particular for the needs of an old car with low compression rate !

SamJ

Many years ago I used to pass Windermere Farms outside of Toronto and see Kentucky Derby winner Northern Dancer grazing in his paddock. He spent summers in Ontario and winters in Kentucky. I always thought, what a great job...you run a couple of miles and you get to retire and be head stud for the rest of your life...:unsure:

TwinH

I'm not a fan of the interference fit studs referenced to McMaster Carr in this
application. A class 5 thread fit is not intended for a stud that will be removed
for service(such as surfacing the deck). stud/thread fit link


Personally,my 55 308 came to me with studs and a freeze damaged Clifford head.I did
play hell getting two of the center-row studs out and there was NO way that head was
coming off in any usable state without removing the studs.Yes,the corrosion between
head and stud was severe. This is caused by the galvanic reaction between the steel
stud and aluminum head and probably aggravated by moisture seeping by the threads in
the deck or just condensation from repeated heating/cooling cycles. After I got the
freeze damage repaired on the head I installed new ARP studs with sealer on the threads and the shank portion liberally coated with a copper-based anti-seize
compound.The head was installed and torqued with just motor oil on the nuts.
I had the occasion to remove the head again this spring after four years of service
and can tell you what a delight it was not to have to fight it. The ARP studs have
an allen head in the top of the stud that allowed me to turn them all right out.
The anti-seize compound was mostly still intact and after cleaning the factory
black oxide finish on the studs was still in great shape. I plan to do my 30 Essex
in a similar fashion for ease of service in the future.

Uncle Josh

SamJ wrote:

Many years ago I used to pass Windermere Farms outside of Toronto and see Kentucky Derby winner Northern Dancer grazing in his paddock. He spent summers in Ontario and winters in Kentucky. I always thought, what a great job...you run a couple of miles and you get to retire and be head stud for the rest of your life...:unsure:

Mercy Sam!

Uncle Josh

OK, I found head and other studs by Dorman online at good old Rockauto.com. These guys are great to deal with, ships fast and lists a lot of Hudson parts.

Search for studs under Extras,(at top of page) Hardware, Stud

TheOldTimer

I just took the head off a 1953 Hudson 308, it had 1/2" studs, quite a process I'll say...
got them all out but 2 by jamming 2 nuts together... the middle two were stuck, had to use a concentric stud remover, it brought the head up with it as it came...  
so, now I'm stuck, I need 6 studs to put it back together...
Anyone have a lead on the right parts ???

Really appreciate the help.

Thanks

The Old Timer...