Hard steering.

Majumbo

So I had popping and looseness in my steering so I found my bellcrank steering pin " center steering" pin was worn so I got Randy Maas's kit. Also got tie rod ends. Installed these and my steering tightened up a bit but I still have the popping and loosesness in the steering.

Can somebody please tell me the step by step procedure for adjusting the steering box? I looked at the service manual at the procedure and I don't quite understand it. Also if this problem still is there after I do the adjustment can I put chassis grease in the box?

Car is a 53 superwasp.

Zach Webster

[Deleted User]

I don't think Grease would be a good idea as it would not circulate. I should have a short wheelbase steering box if you need one. They are different ratios than the long wheelbase car,
Roger

Geoff

Ken U-Tx wrote:

Popping sound is a sign of bad tie-rod ball joints. Replace soon.

It could also be the ends of the drag link not tight enough.

Kdancy

Tallent R wrote:

I don't think Grease would be a good idea as it would not circulate. I should have a short wheelbase steering box if you need one. They are different ratios than the long wheelbase car,
Roger

Is the steering box ratio on the LWB ones slower or faster than the SWB cars?

Marconi

Don't know the difference in the ratios but the two boxes mount differently, forgings for box are different and the SWB car has a shorter shaft on it. Have seen these boxes with chips broken out of the worm gear also, so your 'popping' could lots of causes. Also do NOT use chassis grease in them, you'll probably have to replace seals and gaskets in the box so it won't leak but regular steering gear grease is the only thing to use. BTW Studebaker International in South Bend, In. sells it by the 12 or 16 oz. tube, not real expensive either, 'bout 12 bucks!

Majumbo

If you look back at my first post, I already replaced my tie rod ends and center steering pin, like yesterday. The ball going into the draglink looked okay. I guess I could tighten the drag link a little more, but before I start replacing all of it, how do I adjust the steering box. On vws I know you just undo the lock nut, tighten the screw down until it bottoms then back off but with my Hudson the lock nut Is more like a cap nut. How do you do the adjustment? That section consists of cap nut, slotted screw and a stared washer keyed to the screw.

RonS

If you can get a helper, see if the helper can turn the steering wheel while you hold on to suspected areas.It is a lot easier, obviously, if the popping joint & noise can be reproduced if the front wheels are off the floor. Otherwise, have a helper with strong arms. As your assistant steers, cup your hand over each area and listen. I bet you will find it.

Majumbo

It's not a popping noise, its Like popping in my steering. Like it's easy to turn because of the looseness probably not be adjusted,then it hits like a wall and it's really hard to turn then it pops over and is easy , repeat.

Lee ODell

Sounds like someone has tighten the gear box adjusting screw to tight. It was probably adjusted when the steering gear box was not centered. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left then count the turn to the right and then back again 1/2 way. The end of the steering shaft under the horn button button should have a groove that is at the 6 o'clock position, spokes of steering wheel should be horizontal.

There is the worm bearing adjustment and the roller mesh adjustment. From the proceedure manual which method are you having difficulty understanding. The worm bearing adjustment should alway be checked first before adjusting the roller mesh.

Remove the roller shaft adjustment screw lock nut and lift lock plate clear of boss on housing. Loosen roller shaft adjustment screw until the stiffness is gone. The stiffnes should disapear. If the stiffness is gone then proceed with checking the worm bearing for loosness and correct if necessary before adjusting the roller mesh adjustment.

I believe your main interest is to adjust the roller mesh. But it is important to verify the worm bearing bearing end play first.

1. Raise front wheels off the foor.
2. Check steering column jacket tube clamp at steering gear housing and tighten securely if loose.
3. Turn steering wheel about one turn to the right from straight ahead position.
4. Place one hand around the jacket tube with side of finger barely touching lower edge of steering wheel hub.
5. Have a helper shake the front wheels hard sidewise.
6. End play is indicated if the steering wheel hub move away from or against the finger.

If end play exists in the worm bearing, the following adjustment is necessary:

1. Disconnect drag link at pitman arm.
2. Remove left frame to cowl brace.
3. Loosen the four worm cover bolts about 1/8".
4. Use a knife to separate the top shim. (Use care not to damage remaing shims.)
5. Remove one shim at a time and retighten cover.
6. After each shim is removed turn sheering wheel through entire radius to determine if any stiffness exists.
7. If stiffness is felt, replace shims until steering wheel turns freely.
8. Attach drag link to pitman arm and replace frame to cowl brace.

Steering gear misalignment is indicated if stiffness exists in steering gear that can not be elimminated with worm cover shims without resulting in excess worm bearing end play.

Align steering gear as follows:

1. Disconnect drag link at pitman arm.
2. Loosen three bolts attaching steering gear housing to frame and allow housing to frame and allow housing to sift to angle determined by asttachment of steering column to bracket at instrument ppanel.
3. Retighten frame bolts to 50-60 foot pounds.
4. Loosen bolts attaching steering column bracket at instrument panel and allow brackt to line up with steering column. Then tighten bolts.
5. Connect drag link to pitman arm.

Roller Mesh Inspection

Improper mesh of roller with worm gear is indicated by excess free play or stiffness in the steering wheel. Inspection for proper mesh should not be made until worm bearing end play and gear alingment have been checked and corrected if necessary. If free play or stiffness continues, check mesh of roller with worm:

1. Disconnect drag link at pitman arm.
2. Turn steering wheel to straight ahead position.
3. Shake pitman arm to determine amount of lost motion. If lost motion exceeds 1/32", adjust roller for proper mesh.
4. Attach pitman are to drag link.

Roller Mesh Adjustment:
1. Disconnect pitman arm from drag link.
2. Remove left side dust shield.
3. Turn steering wheel to straight ahead position.
4. Remove roller shaft adjustment screw locknut and lift lock plate clear of boss on housing.
5. Tighten roller shaft adjustment screw just enougnt to eliminate lost motion at pitman arm. (It is better to leave a slight amount of play - not in excess of 1/32" - then it is to tighten too much.)
6. Replace lock plate against coveer in locked position and replace and tighten lock nut. Replace dust shield and connect drag link to pitman arm.

IMPORTANT NOTE:

BEFORE CONNECTING DRAG LINK TO PITMAN ARM, PLACE THE FRONT WHEELS ON ROLLER PLATES AND ATTACH SPRING SCALE TO TIRE TREAD. MAXIMUM PULL REQUIRED TO TURN WHEELS AT ANY POINT IN THE TURNING RADIUS IS 28 POUNDS. ANY EXCESS PULL INDICATES A BINDING IN THE FRONT SUSPENSION THAT SHOULD BE CORRECTED TO ACHIEVE PROPER FUNCTIONING OF STEERING MECHANISM.

Tip: Two sheet of sheet metal with light grease between them will work as roller plates. The pull may be slightly higher than 28 pounds but close.

There is more to adjusting a steering gear box properly than just the Roller Mesh Adjustment. It may be more time consumming but it is worth knowing all is well. Short cuts usually cause problems in the long run.

Let us know how it come out.
If you have any question PM me.

Have a good day.
Lee O'Dell

[Deleted User]

My recolection of the ratio is the short car had quicker steering.

Kdancy

Lee, I just copied and put in my documents you're lesson on the steering box adjustment. I assume it is the same for both SWB and LWB cars?

Majumbo

Thank you. Great explanation. I'll do the adjustment and if problem pursists I'll try the steering box.

Seriously thank you I was all bummed out

Lee ODell

Kdancy wrote:

Lee, I just copied and put in my documents you're lesson on the steering box adjustment. I assume it is the same for both SWB and LWB cars?

Yes Kdancy, even though the gear boxes of SWB & LWB are different the adjustments are the same. I print copies of useful information and put it in folders under different topic. I'm not to good with computor. When I try to save something on the computor it sometimes ends up in there somewhere and I can not find it.

Also, the recommended gear box lubricant is:

S.A.E. 80 Winter
S.A.E. 90 Summer

MAJUMBO - You are welcome. Take it one step at a time.

I'm glad you found it usefull.
Have a good day.
Lee O'Dell

[Deleted User]

It sounds to me like your problem is a chipped worm gear in the steering box. I had the same problem on my swb convertible. I changed to a different steering box and now it steers nice and smooth. Rob