Fuel Starvation on a Hornet

[Deleted User]

I know this has been discussed in depth but I'd like to get a few opinions from you gurus:

The Hornet seems to be fuel starved at times. If it sits for a few days it is hard to start or won't start unless I hold a hand over each carb and have someone crank it over (to draw fuel into the carbs). Once the car has been started then it is fine as far as being able to restart. Additionally, there are times when accelerating or simply driving that the car will lurch like is is fuel starved and then be OK again. I did change the fuel filter... (there seems to be enough gas getting to the see thru filter but not enough fuel pressure to fill the float bowls?

Suggested fixes?

( I'm thinking I want to run a 6 volt fuel pump full time. Can this be done while still having the mechanical fuel pump connected and operating?)

Appreciate your thoughts and responses.

[Deleted User]

Personally, I just use starter fluid on cold starts so I don't have to crank & crank.

I have used the 6V Carter rotary vane pump as an aux, and gas flows thru it quite well. It also fills the bowl for cold starts pretty well.

I'm also using a Ford-style" starter solenoid (has a button you can push to force the switch closed when you're underhood, easier to get to carbs & linkage; I don't have as many friends to help as you).

I haven't installed the more available recip pump so can't comment yet on flow thru, but the flow-check valves seemed like they were sprung kind of stiff for easy flow thru - one of the things that's held me back from finishing the install.

The Carter worked well, it did seize once last winter after sitting a long time - tinkered with it, now as good as new. Wish I removed it from the S6 before I let it go to a new owner.

Good Luck,
Jon

[Deleted User]

Sounds like your float level(s) are set too low.

RonS

Neils,It is not abnormal for fuel to siphon back after sitting a while. This would necessitate more cranking to suck, and push the gas up to the carbs. Are the chokes closing fully, If not, you may have too lean a mix on cold starts, and when you put your hand over the horn you cut off some air & richen the mixture. Richen the choke(s) a bit. When does the starvation occur? What are the air temps. Is the engine fully warm when suspected starving occurs? Fuel starving is another matter. Possible float too lean, or fuel pump a bit weak for the volatile gas. What is PSI & vacuum draw of the mechanical pump?

[Deleted User]

My Jet has had the same problem for years. I always thought it was because the carbs needed rebuilt or adjusted. A couple weeks ago, my dual action fuel pump started pumping fuel out of the top of it, so I replaced it with a rebuilt one from Dave K that I bought for the 50 C6 I'm working on.

The difference is like night and day! 4 days after installing it, I jumped in and it started right up, which would have taken 2 minutes of cranking before the fuel pump replacement.

Matt

Marconi

This modern 'FUEL' evaporates faster than you can say "Twin-H-Power". Yopu usually have to wait for the fuel bowls in the carbs fill up before you can start the engine if the car has sat idle for more than a few days!

[Deleted User]

Do the electric, and don't turn back, I've had one on mine for 10 years and it is one of the best things I've done!

RL Chilton

Niels-

I'm mostly going to echo what has all ready been written on this thread, but cold starts are a choke problem and/or fuel starvation. Hudsons will drain the gas back into the tank and when running a mech. pump only, takes a few cranks to get the fuel flowing back up to the carbs. I highly recommend adding an elec. pump along with the mechanical. I use a Carter elec.pump (Napa P74022), which is a flow-through pump (and toggle-switch controlled). Elec. pump can then be used as a starting aid, a back-up in case of mech. failure, or along with the mech. pump. Benefit is running the elec. pump before cranking for 10-15 seconds, then hitting the starter, which will fire right up, assuming your chokes are properly set for your climate (sounds like they are a bit lean).

Adding to the fact that the car sometimes does this on the road, is most likely either your float settings are too low, mech. pump is weak, or, by chance, is this the 7X motor you are referring to? If so, the jets on the carbs need to be over-sized to handle the extra power, but only by .001"-.002".

I pretty much adhere to the system Walt laid out in his book about the elec. pump and the return fuel line to prevent vapor lock. Works like a charm. As a matter of fact, we are currently installing this system on the convertible

Feel free to call.

Russell

onerare39

Russell,

What size fuse did you use for your electric fuel pump?

John

[Deleted User]

Russell, people can't believe I drove my Hornet to Oklahoma City in that 113 to 115 weather and never had a problem. Like you stated, my fuel return system was the reason. Every time I started a hill, I turned the pump on, because this is where the engine pump will vapor lock. Walt.

RL Chilton

John-

My pump requires a 10amp fuse. I don't utilize a pressure safety switch (where fuse needs to be in-line between the two, so the fuse at the main block is sufficient.

Keep in mind that I am referring to a 12v system, with a modern-fuse type of block. 6V systems will differ.

[Deleted User]

My fuse is on the wire from the key, then to my switch and have a fuse just before the pump at the gas tank. 12 volt and 10 amps. Walt.

RonS

According to the AC Delco ep-11 a 10 amp fuse is required on the 6 volt as well.