hard steering pacemaker

Unknown
edited November -1 in HUDSON
1950 pacemaker convertable 308/auto is very hard to steer. Car did wander but local shop alignment seemed to cure the wander. I see old posts that say that SWB car are hard to steer. I there a differance in the CENTERPOINT arm on the SWB vs LWB? better leverage? Anyone doing Power Steering Upgrade (rack&Pinion kit?)that might improve the steering?
Would appreciate any help or comments.
Dave
dnn1942@msn.com

Comments

  • StillOutThere
    StillOutThere Expert Adviser
    Short wheelbase stepdowns have slightly different geometry than long wheelbase stepdowns. And this makes them require only slightly more work to be steered. Best I can recall the centerpoint steering unit is the same for both. Look to your steering box first as being improperly set up per the shop manual. I'm sure you have checked or replaced your kingpins and that you keep them greased. Have proper tension on your front wheelbearings. Grease both ends of your drag link.
  • [Deleted User]
    edited January 2012
    Dave:

    I can only speak to my experience, but I have owned several SWB Hudsons including a 50 PM with a 308 and none of these cars steered harder than the full size cars I have owned. I can state with confidence, that if the center point steering bearings or shaft are damaged there will be wander and depending on what is or has failed the steering could be hard. The Mechanical Procedures manual for Hudson Stepdowns provides the information needed to inspect and repair the center point steering. Manuals are online thanks to Alex Burr and the HET Club.
    If you find the center point requires maintenance/replacement, the parts to complete the service/repair are readily available.
    21st Century Hudson products (click this name)

    produc1.jpg

    The kit shown comes complete with all the parts needed to replace the center point steering except for the cast iron pieces that are part of your car.

    As an alternative Gert Kristiansen - XXXgtkristi@copper.net(remove the XXX for email to Gert) a HET member in Utah who manufactures a bearing replacement sleeve which will bring a center point system that has a good pin back to proper operation.

    Good Luck .... post a picture of your car here if you have one. My old convert is long gone, but I still have a soft spot for SWB converts.

    Cheers
    Ken
  • Are you using RADIAL tires? They make a manual steer car much harder to turn, but dont have as much road wander as bias ply tires.[my own experiance]
  • If you want easier steering, just have the alignment shop set the caster one degree less than what the manual calls for. Make sure you air the tires like the side walls say. Radials can go to 44 pounds. With radials, you have to have toe in a dead center or 1/16 inch out. Bias plies use 1/16 to 1/8 inch toe in. I installed rack and pinion with Radials and this was the set up I had to use, toe out, and all the caster I could get on the front end. First set of Radials went 70,000 miles, Walt.
  • Thanks Walt. Where would I look for information on the Rack and Pinion upgrade.
    Thanks
    Dave
  • lostmind
    lostmind Expert Adviser
    I believe the gearbox Ratios are different between Lwb and Swb
    cars , also the steering wheels are smaller diameter?
    You might be able to change to LWB parts ?
    Roy
  • That is my understanding also. It seems someone on the forum brought it up before. Saying the gearbox was made differently . Not only ratio but bushings instead of ball bearings inside . Anyone else hear that ? Ive never taken one apart
    Roger
  • I seem to remember hearing that also. about the PACEMAKER steering box having bushings..I know on the 46-47 Hudsons, the Super series had a bushing type gearbox, and the Commodores had recirculating ball bearings..Was like night and day, the differance...Often wondered if the few dollars saved by using the "cheap" gearbox was worth it.
  • If you think about it , makes sense to have the Commodore or Hornet "FEEL" different than the lesser models. Power steereing not yet offered but maybe "Better" steering was ?
    Roger
  • Lee ODell
    Lee ODell Senior Contributor
    1952 Procedure Manual & 48-54 Parts book.

    Both SWB & LWB stepdown steering gear boxes have needle bearings.
    As mentioned swb came with 17" steering wheel. Changeing to a 18" wheel will make a noticeable improvement in steering effort. No bronze bushings.
    LWB steering ratio - 20.4 to l. 1952 Procedure Manual
    SWB steering ratio - 18.2 to l. 1952 Procedure Manual


    1946 -47 Procedure Manual

    46-47 six cyl steering gear has bronze bushings and 17" steering wheel. Opt 18" wheel.
    46-47 eight cyl steering gear has needle roller bearings and 18" steering wheel
    Steering ratio 6 cyl - 18.2 to l
    Steering ratio 8 cyl - 18.4 to l

    There is an IMPORTANT NOTE in 1952 Procedure Manual:

    "Before connecting drag link to pitman arm, place the front wheels on roller plates and attach spring scale to tire tread. Maximum pull required to turn wheels at any point in the turning radius is 28 pounds. Any excess pull indicates a binding in the front suspension that should be corrected to achieve proper functioning of steering mechanism."

    I hope this will be of help.
    Lee O'Dell
  • Well the different ratio surely explains it . Thanks for the research
    Roger
  • For the differant Steering Ratio Is it the box or thelenght of the pitman arm?
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    The ratio inside the box is different, and the drag link is shorter. the Pitman arm is the same.
This discussion has been closed.