2 piece driveline set-up

lsfirth

Well, as I'm getting ready to intall my 4-link rear suspension, I'm needing to figure out what pinion angle I need to have. Since I'm pretty much going to have this thing on the ground, the anlges of the 2 piece drive line will be much different than the stock angles. The new engine and trans combo also play a role. So, going off the very helpful directions from the Spicer Driveline Intallation Manual <http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF>, I've arrived at the following set-up which I think will work just fine. I may need to increase the height of the driveline tunnel slightly as it goes under the front bench seat, but probably small price to pay to have everything dialled in. Has anyone out there gone through this process....and what did you end up with....would you do it differently? The 2 piece driveline will actually be very nice for a very low ride since a single piece driveline would need to have a very high/deep driveline tunnel to reach the rearend. Comments are welcome!!!!

Thanks,
Lee

chopperchuck

i hope you ask this on the HAMB too since there is a few gentlemen who slammed the huds,if your not a member let me know & i'll post it for you --chuck

PS i've been think about this since i gotta change all this too.some days i think it would have been a whole less painful to gone back to stock.

rambos_ride

lsfirth wrote:

Well, as I'm getting ready to intall my 4-link rear suspension, I'm needing to figure out what pinion angle I need to have. Since I'm pretty much going to have this thing on the ground, the anlges of the 2 piece drive line will be much different than the stock angles. The new engine and trans combo also play a role. So, going off the very helpful directions from the Spicer Driveline Intallation Manual <http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF>, I've arrived at the following set-up which I think will work just fine. I may need to increase the height of the driveline tunnel slightly as it goes under the front bench seat, but probably small price to pay to have everything dialled in. Has anyone out there gone through this process....and what did you end up with....would you do it differently? The 2 piece driveline will actually be very nice for a very low ride since a single piece driveline would need to have a very high/deep driveline tunnel to reach the rearend. Comments are welcome!!!!

Thanks,
Lee

Hi Lee.

With the 3degree engine/trans incline why not go straight from the output shaft to the carrier bearing...the rear shaft might have more of an incline but you can ""easily"" rotate the housing mounts..or get angled shims to put between the housing and springs.

Where you able to get the tunnel clearance or are you hitting now?

Dan

TwinH

I've heard that you need some kind of 'working angle'(besides straight) to make the
needle bearings in the u-joints rotate. Of course I've changed plenty of u-joints that
had plenty of 'working angle' and quit rotating the needles long before I got to them....That is probably more of a lubrication deal though.

lsfirth

rambos_ride wrote:

Hi Lee.

With the 3degree engine/trans incline why not go straight from the output shaft to the carrier bearing...the rear shaft might have more of an incline but you can ""easily"" rotate the housing mounts..or get angled shims to put between the housing and springs.

Where you able to get the tunnel clearance or are you hitting now?

Dan

Hi Dan,
If I went straight from the tranny to the pinion, I would need to raise the carrier bearing as well (currently at the stock location in my sketch)...which might get problematic. I would need to calculate what the included angle would be at the u-joints...which might be pretty decent, but the Spicer manual says you kind of want everything at 1 to 1.5 degrees to keep the u-joints happy....grease-wise, but it might be close. I hear you though....some posts on the HAMB mention that +3 and -3 is a great way to go, but that doesn't mean the included angle at the u-joints is +/- 3 degrees...I think they are talking about +/-3 from level. Anyway, I'll be hitting now just at the tranny u-joint, so I'll have to mod that area to give some clearance....but hopefully not have to mod the carrier bearing mount if I stick with the picture. Good discussion though...I'll ponder all of this.

Thanks,
Lee