308 Aluminum cylinder head questions

Unknown

I had a to pull my Hornet's cylinder head off, as it had a water passage leak, into one of the rear cylinders.I really would prefer using a cast iron head, as they seem to be less troublesome.(anyone have one for sale?) I also need a thermostat houising.

Anyway, I want to replace all of the head bolts and washers. Should I get a grade "5" or a grade "8" bolt?

If the head is warped, how much can be milled down? I'm looking for a measurement when new, as I do not know the history of this head.

I noticed there is some corrosion around a few of the round water passages, by the edge.Has anyone have experience to tell me this head may be scrap?

I plan on chasing all of the bolt holes, treating the bolts to never seize, and using a copper gasket spray on the head gasket, and alignment studs....Any other advice?

THanks for any help/advice/heads for sale....

Scott

Ol racer

I have aluminum heads on my 308's. Most of the corriosion came from early sub standard antifreeze unlike today where many motors have aluminum heads (and some have aluminum blocks).

Head measurement new is 2". Some of the erosion will disapear when resurfaced. I buy Dorman Studs then use grade 8 nuts with large hard washers and use BEST Permbond gasket available from Randy Maas www.21stcenturyhudson.netor Dale Cooper 513 821 6200. If want use Bolts buy Grade 8.

I believe a modern type Thermostat Housing is available from Walt Moredenti 415 939 1202

Browniepetersen

Scott, There has been a lot said about the aluminum heads and today there are some being reproduced. That also has brought in a lot of question. Nontheless, they are part of what owning a 308 is all about. Critical to using one is answered by the comments of oldracer. What he did not touch on is machining the head. The key is to only remove what material that is necessary. I have had heads fail with minor removal and have had some work fine that has had .200 removed. But again I would suggest removing only what needs to be removed.

I like the steel head and have used one very successfully. My choice would be a steel head.

Kdancy

Another issue that has arisen is the use of taps that are not the proper "fit"for the holes being tapped.
Make sure you use a good quality tap with the proper H size (there are 6 H sizes per tap size)
I personally would put studs back in and not cap screws.
http://www.newmantools.com/taps/taptech.htm

Richard E.

My '50C6 came new with an aluminum head (narrow block) that was still on when I got the car. I changed to an iron head and put 25,000 trouble free miles on the car. However in my recent restoration I found a nos narrow block aluminum head and have installed it as recommended above. The item that no one mentioned is torquing head. Aluminum heads are torqued cold (iron heads can be done either hot or cold.) If head is properly torqued it should be relatively trouble free with modern anti-freeze and new head gasket technology.

PAULARGETYPE

Scott I have new grade 8 3'' X 7/16 head bolts for sale for $25 +$5 shipping THE BOLT HEAD SIZE IS 11/16 THEY COME WITH HEAVY WASHERS NEVER USE A OLD HEAD BOLT AND ALWAYS USE GRADE 8

Unknown

Paul, How would you like to be paid, let me know.
Thanks, Scott