Broken stud removal - snapped extractor...

GrimGreaser

On the subject of intake/exhaust removal...

The very back exhaust stud has been broken ever since having my Hornet. When I put my Twin H on I tried removing it, but snapped the extractor off in the stud. I'm getting ready to adjust the valves and while the fender is off would like to get at it again. Any suggestions dealing with the broken bit of extractor left in the stud?

Thanks.

Browniepetersen

I am a bit of a coward and would not attempt this unless I had the block in a machine shop where I could set it up and bore it out. It is a lot of work to get to removing an extractor. However, the extractor is most likely grade 8 and most attempts to drill it out would only destroy the hole. I would expect that the hole would need to be rethreaded--I have never been able to save one.... As bad as I shake, I would be lucky to get a drill within three inches of the damaged hole.

charles4d

Maybe try a dermal blade cut a slot in the extractor and back it out with a screwdriver
or drill around the hole with a small bit remove some metal and use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the extractor
just my two cents good luck

Matt1950

I have Mig welded a small nut on the extractor and was able to free it from the bolt it was broke in. Then I had to drill out the stud and re-tap the threads and use sealer on the new stud. If the break is under flush on the block then you might have to take a carbide debur bit and work on smoothing the break surface of the extractor so you can get a small drill bit to center on that extractor. You will have to buy a very good drill bit(s) to see if your extractor will allow you to drill it out.
I have had to pull my engine out of one car to get it repaired for a broken stud so it is always a gamble. Patience and percervierence pay off as long as you know when to stop before you damage more than what you bargained for.

Geoff

I have never had any joy using an extractor in a broken stud. They invariably break, and you are left in the quandary you find yourself in. You are going to have to remove the manifold to work on this. I have heard of such devices as spark eroders, but have no experience of them, but it may be worth investigating. Otherwise you are going to have to drill a number of holes right around the broken extractor with a 1/8" drill, as close as you can to the extractor, keeping the holes as close together as you can without breaking into the adjacent hole. You will have to be very careful that you don't break your drill in this process, so proceed very carefully. Then when you have completely drilled right around, punch the extractor and attached metal through. Get a heli-coil kit and drill and tap the hole to take the new thread. The kits have the correct tap, coils and inserting tool. The tapped hole probably goes into the water jacket, so you will have to use a suitable sealant in the threads. Good luck,
Geoff

SuperDave

I have done it by useing a cutting torch. Heat the busted stud until cherry red, kick in the oxy until it blasts out in your face. Repeat until the bulk of the busted stud is gone. or your clothes are on fire. Let it all cool and carefully chase the threads. The cast iron block melting point is much higher than the stud, so you most likely won't hurt a thing except your hide. It takes guts to do it... but it works. Worst case will be having to clean up the hole and install a Heli-Coil.
Good luck!

GrimGreaser

Alright... It's flush, to level with the block. Which complicates things. I've done some reading and probably what I'll try first is dripping a bit of nitric acid right there to loosen up the extractor bit, I get that out and I'll just drill out for a heli-coil.

I like your thinking SuperDave... All else fails I'll give the hot-wrench a go.

Chris Smith

Here is what I did, I called Eric,s tap & stud removal Inc dba Eric's lazer out 951-264-9177
He is in Riverside CA so I don't know if the shipping both ways will kill you but he will fix it like new.

kamzack

Hey Grim,
I'll wade in here amongst the pros. Do ya have an arc welder? If so I can send you 3 or 4 rods that will work in the situation and they will bend without flux breaking off. As mentioned above take a grade 8 7/16 nut and flat washer, tack the washer to the nut If you're gonna use your Mig. Put the nut and washer over the broken stud, fill the nut with weld. While it's still pretty warm start working the nut back forth little at a time. May to too tight to get the mig tip back there. The heat does more to help move the stud than anything.
Hope this helps,
Kim

barrysweet52

Using heat will break the rust seal. You can buy aerosols that not only freeze and shrink studs but also squirt a lubricant in the broken seal between the stud and block. If you use a 1/8th drill around the broken stud, I think the hole that ends up will be too big for a 3/8 standard helicoil and you may need to get a machineshop to make a special stud. A stud that is say 7/16 or 1/2" one end and the original stud diameter the other end. Good luck.

lostmind

Please reread what Kamzack posted. I've done this many times , always worked.
If you have doubts about your ability , hire a welder to come and do it.
This will save you a lot of misery.
Roy

corangerroadrunnercom

I stepped drilled out the old studs [ I had two broken off flat] on my Fifty nash] to just where the threads started to show. I picked out as much steel from the threads as i could. I then worked a tap that size to clean it out . You have to have patience. Walk away if it isn't going well. Oh yea, the engine was out when I did it. Heck ,What have you got to lose. Jim K
Of course you'll have to get that broken tap out first but it can be done. There brittle enough that you can break it in pieces. Good luck

Kdancy

I've done the "welding washer and nut" on many times to get a broken stud out. Worked every time ---If it breaks off, just weld another one on. Sometimes, I have had to do it a couple of times but it always turned out okay.

Geoff

As mentioned, this one is broken off flush inside the block, so welding anything on to it is not an option. If anyone else is ever faced with this dilemma, don't try an easyout, they invariably break off, as the stud is usually rusted in.

GrimGreaser

Ken, that's another tool going on my ever expanding wish list.

bob ward

There are guys around who are mobile broken stud removers, they have seen it all and carry a complete box of tricks with them. Ask at any garage, they have all used these stud remover guys, and will tell you where to find someone.

Kdancy

Geoff, I have gotten ones like that out -I build up a "tit" in the center of the "broken flush" bolt, high enough to put the nut over and then weld the nut in place. Sometimes just the welding heat will help break it loose enough to remove. Gently work it back and forth as you back it out.

GrimGreaser

Well, I can't remember how far it goes in... If I'm lucky I can weld a nut on there with the inner fender off. That would be easy... Nothing seems to be easy anymore.

Geoff

Remember Murphy's law -"The likelihood of failure is inversely proportional to the ease of repair". And "If you fiddle with a thing long enough, it will ultimately break."

fossiltin62

Easy-outs never worked for me. I quit using them when I was a kid (heck of a long time ago). The damn things break easily - only work sometimes on non rusty bolts. I get everything out of the way that I can, then carefully punch mark the center of the broken stud (take your time-do it right), make yourself a guide (easy lathe job) so you can drill a perpendicular hole ( two little lips on the inside if it's below face level). If you make it right you can use it to find center when you get old and shake and can't see anymore. Drill through with what you KNOW is a drill smaller than tap size but is close. You'll probably hit threads on one side because you won't make a perfect dead center hole. Plan on a lot of years of swearing because you didn't quite have the knack of it. Then get your dremmel out and, using a magnifying glass, burr off enough to find the threads on the rest of the hole. When you've found them, you can use a sharp, hard punch to catch the thread at the top. Generally, I've been able to pull the old threads out with needle-nosed pliers. Then thereare always heli-coils. Good luck.

ESSX28-1

Geoff C., N.Z. June 22
Posts: 2,022Platinum Member
Remember Murphy's law -"The likelihood of failure is inversely proportional to the ease of repair". And "If you fiddle with a thing long enough, it will ultimately break."

Someone on the old forum used to sign off with "If it ain't broke, fix it til it is!!" We've all done that!!!

GrimGreaser

I've always liked: "If it ain't broke - get a bigger hammer." of which I have several. My favorite being the large, ancient, 5 lb hunk of brass I found deep in my father's tool box. It has persuaded many a stubborn object.

drdoug

Hire a welder,it's probably not going to be their first rodeo. Kamzack has the right idea. This works well. Also,in addition to this thread,Snap-on sells left handed drill bits. These work very well for me,designed for these type of situations. CG