Valve guide removal on 51 Pacemaker

Richie

I'm going to do a valve job on my 51 Pacemaker 232. If the valve guides are worn I want to change them. I have searched here on the forum several times, under valve guide removal, valve guides, valves and etc. I have not found anything about removing valve guides. I remember reading comments in a thread about the best way to remove them, can someone refresh me on the best way remove valve guides, should I need to do that. Thanks, Richie.

Park_W

Richie, seems to me if they're OK you don't need to remove them, and if they're not you don't need to worry about damaging them, the removal process isn't too critical. You could use a long bolt that'll fit into the valve stem hole in the guide, then screw a nut onto the bolt so it can bear on the top of the guide, then drive it out (better to use two nuts back to back, to avoid stripping the bolt threads). But then there's the matter of putting new ones in. Next adviser, please!

Geoff

My backyard method is to use a 3/8" bolt with a brass nut under the head. The bolt fits down in the guide and the brass nut bears against the top of the guide, and you hammer it down into the block. The brass nut prevents any damage to the guide. And don't fiddle around with a small hammer. Use at least a 5lb hammer and drive it down gently with that, using the inertial
of the hammer weight. If you use a light hammer you have to really whack it in, and this is what causes damage, both to your fingers, and to the block and guide.

Richie

Thanks Park, and Geoff, that shouldn't be too hard. Installing the new ones would be about the same I assume then. I'll have the head off Monday and start from there. Thanks again, Richie.

[Deleted User]

Measure how far the intake and exhaust guides set in the block from the top surface so that you can set the new ones in the same depth. Very important. Walt.

Richie

I'll make sure of that Walt, thanks. Richie.

Park_W

And give us an "after action" report on how it went. Would be useful to those not sure whether it needs to go to the shop for this work.

Richie

I will do that Park. Richie.

Richie

OK, guys I'm starting my valve job on the 51 P/M with the engine still in the car. Worked about 5 hours on it today, got the intake/exhaust manifold, head, linkage off and so on. Got the inner fender off and 6 valves out, got tired and will finish taking the rest out tomorrow. Two questions please. #1- after compressing the spring and removing the keepers I release the tension on the spring and it goes down and covers the tappet, it still has tension on it, (the tappet is at the bottom of its travel) I removed the valves as I go along, how do I get the spring out safely? I don't want it flying out I have enough aches and pains already.
#2- I'm planning on driving the valve guides out the bottom, (haven't tried it yet) as I said the engine is still in the car so how do I drive the rear guides out that are set back in the firewall, can't swing a hammer back that far?
I will measure the depth of all the guides before I remove them to make sure the new ones go in the same depth.
Thanks again, Richie.

Geoff

Question - do you really need to take them out? Have you measured the clearance? If it aint broke, don't fix it! If you have to take them out then you can make up a jig from a length of 1" key steel that sits over the valve seat. Drill a 3/8" hole in it, and use a long high tensile stud down through the valve guide. Fit a nut on the bottom end, and another on the top and wind the guide out. this will enable you to get the rear ones out. Those s.w.b. cars are a pain to get at the rear of the motor.

Richie

Geoff, thank you for your help, good idea. The valve seats are bad, when raising the valves off the seat about 1/2 '' they rock back and forth about 1/16''. Thanks again. Richie.

EssexAdv

Gosh. Why not use a guide driver. They are available and not expensive. A friendly machIne shop might lend you one
http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/handdrivers.html