12 volt conversion/ circuits?

[Deleted User]

Hello, Would someone please tell me how many circuits does the '52 hornet have? I am looking to convert to 12 volts due to the old wiring ect... Does anyone know of a "hudson hornet specific" wiring harness/kit for the budget guy as I've checked out Rhode Island wiring and I cannot afford $1,000. Also, any tech/article links would be appreciated. Thanks guys!

GrimGreaser

Well, I used the "budget" harness from Speedway Motors, $130, turned out pretty good. If I would have had the money I would have rather used the Painless Wiring Kit. If you want to stay close to "original" you'll spend quite a bit more I think.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Economy-12-Circuit-Wiring-Harness,2352.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Painless-12-Circuit-Wire-Harnesses,2358.html

faustmb

I bought a "rebel wire" harness for my car, not installed yet. Price was good and it came highly recommended.

[Deleted User]

Thanks for the responses.. A few questions... With the different wiring kits, Do you just follow the directions and just replace one wire at a time? Is there any kind of wiring tutorial thread on here or anywhere for hudsons? Also what alternators are you guys using and are is there anything extra that I would need that do not come with the wiring kits? I'm trying to get an idea for my budget. Thanks!

GrimGreaser

My kit was 'universal' but every wire was labeled along the whole wire.

bob ward

I used the super economy wiring kit which consisted of a few rolls of different coloured wire and a selection of fittings. As long as you can follow and understand the wiring diagram you will be fine, just tackle one circuit at a time.

For instance first off I did the wiring from the battery and generator/regulator (since replaced with an alternator) to the ignition switch. After that I did the ignition circuit, then the gauges and then the lights. Sounds and is straightforward, but there are quite a few hours in it, its not a one Sunday afternoon job.

Some tips.
Photo copy the wiring diagram before you start so you don't wear out your manual.
Use a good wire stripper and a good terminations crimper.
Run your headlights through a relay.
Include an electronic 12V to 5V voltage regulator to supply the fuel and temp gauges, bypass the old fuel and temp regulator.
Put a modern blade type fuse box where you can get at it in the engine bay, bypass the old circuit breakers, keep a note of which circuit goes through which fuse.
Where possible work from the dash out into the engine bay, you have more room to do your terminations there.
Run trailer light flex from the dash to the rear of the car for tail lights, brake lights, indicators, fuel pump etc.
Keep track of your wiring as you work, I wrote notes on pieces of masking tape and stuck them on each end of each wire.
Keep an eye on how and where the wires are going to run so you can tape them up as a nice neat looking harness when you are done.


Disclaimer:
This advice is not intended for those who want their engine bays to look absolutely original, nor those who really have no business opening the hood of a motor vehicle.

DocHornet

Alternator.... The Delco 10SI is a common and ubiquitous model. You can get the one-wire version, couldn't be simpler to install, and completely do away with your old voltage regulator (some people, including me, leave the old regulator in place, but just use the terminals at the bottom as a convenient terminal block).

You're basically just going to connect the alternator directly to the battery (through the battery terminal on the old regulator, just for looks if desired). However, for high amperage loads, it's best to run a heavier gauge wire right to the battery from the alternator. I like to add an inline auto-resetting circuit breaker, of 70-80 amp rating available at all parts stores, near the battery to protect the alternator wire, just in case.

You can buy a 100 AMP version of one of these Delcos, even chrome plated, if you like, all over the 'net for $60-70 (Amazon is good as any, usually free shipping). Get the separate pigtail to provide input to your charge light if desired. Don't cheap out and get a 50 amp alternator (note that's MAX output, at usually 4-5,000 RPM), If you decide to add an A/C, electric fan, spot lights, etc... when driving at night with everything going, the 50 AMP won't be able to keep up (ask me how I know!)

The other advantage of getting the Delco 10SI with standard 2" mounting tab is there are plenty of cheap aftermarket brackets to fit these babies, making it real easy to mount where your original generator was located.

[Deleted User]

Thanks so much for the detailed responses guys! I will def. use this advice. I drove my hornet for about an hour yesterday without shutting her off and my new battery was drained when I got home... I charged it back up and cannot get the car to start. Tried to get her going this morning and didn't happen. I replaced the coil and went through the distributor and that's all in proper working order. I'm wondering if I have a bad starter that's just draining my battery... and I believe my generator is on the fritz. When converting to 12 volts did you guys have to replace the starter or have it rewound? Thanks

bob ward

Your 6V starter will work indefinitely on 12V, but get it rewound as the pinion slams into the ring gear real hard.

A bad starter, eg worn bushes or brushes can seem like a flat battery. Even if you do have a crook starter its not going to drain the battery while you are driving around.

If your generator is not working a fully charged battery should be enough to run your car during the day for 12 hours or so, including a few starts. JAMHIKT.

Kdancy

One other thing that I do is use all solder connections, Takes a little longer but never worry about a crimp connector getting loose.

Kdancy

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
good article on one wire vs three wire alternator.

[Deleted User]

Thanks!.. The link isn't showing up but it may be my computer.

Lee ODell

Thanks Kdancy. Very informative article. Lee

[Deleted User]

Does anyone have a complete list of everything I would need to convert to 12 volts for a '52 hornet? Thanks!

GrimGreaser

I've gotten several parts from http://alternatorparts.com/ to rebuild a 10si I had laying around. They have kits to rebuild your alternator for higher output as well.

[Deleted User]

You do not need anything higher than 60 amps. I have air condition with a pusher fan, electric wipers, stereo player with radio, cruise control, modern electronic ignition with a brain box, high torque gear reduction starter and halogen headlights, and can drive at night with no problems. I have an amp and voltage gauge and with everything on it shows total amps at 38 and voltage at 13.2. Save your money, get the 60 amp unit with the 2 wire plug, red wire to rear on bat post and white wire to wire you removed from voltage regulator. Walt.

[Deleted User]

Thanks guys... walt I had sent you a PM, unsure if you got it, definately will be asking more questions on her as I'm waiting on my "The official 12 volt conversion guide" by randy rundle... Saw some really good reviews on this little book.

dougson

Walt's right on this one. 60 AMP Ford alternator is what I used. Same results. I rewired using Hudson wiring diagram and correct colors, smaller AWG. Hudson has a fairly simple wiring plan. I have ATC fuses on every circuit, panel is on inner fire wall. Only thing I really changed was directionals, which are aftermarket. All my gauges have been changed to 12 volt.

[Deleted User]

Just ordered a 9+3 rebel wire harness and I am looking at alternators on ebay... The one I found that is a 63 amps- three wire 10SI alt. is labeled for farm and tractor use... Would this be adequate? And there are several three wire alternators that are 110amps... is this too many amps or does it matter? Thanks!

dougson

This is the one I got, so I guess it's a 100 amp.

It needed only to be black, like a generator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tuff-Stuff-Silver-Bullet-Ford-Black-100-Amp-1-Wire-Alternator-V-Belt-Pulley-/120981333351?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2b0ca567&vxp=mtr

DocHornet

Alternator amperage output is like cars and money... you can never have too much!
I'd highly recommend paying just a few bucks more for a 90-110 amp alternator. All the parts stores have them. The Delco 10SI is the standard, however, the 12SI is physically identical and was built with better through-alternator cooling to handle the higher amps. These are all foolproof one-wire alternators (with regulator integral to the unit), and, as Walt says, spring for a few bucks for the 2-wire connector to go along with it.. one wire to the main alternator output post, the other to your charge warning light.

I just had to replace the almost-new 55 amp alternator on my 1940 Caddy. I'm running two cooling fans, as well as A/C. At night with all the lights on, that little alternator just couldn't keep up.

I replaced it with a 94 amp unit from O'reilly's for $79, the Ultima brand came with a lifetime warranty.

Of course, when you go to the parts stores, the geniuses behind the counter can't help you without a specific car model and year to go by.

For the record, an alternator for a 1985 Buick Riviera (V8) High capacity model, fits the bill nicely.

[Deleted User]

Did you guys use voltage drops or reducers on every accessory? Also does anyone have a bulb conversion/parts list available? Thanks!

bob ward

You will need 12V to 5/6V reducers for temp and fuel gauge, heater fan, OD coil and radio, so either one big reducer or several small ones. If you are going to use the original 6V radio it is +ve earth so you will need to make your new 12V system +ve earth. Although I think I have seen mention on here though about people converting 6V radios to -ve earth.

For bulb conversions do the following. Look at writing on 6V bulb and determine the wattage. Buy the equivalent wattage in 12V.

[Deleted User]

Thanks for the response, Do I need a reducer for every single gauge/ accessory, and where can I buy one big reducer, or even the individual ones?

JasonNC

There is a reducer that Ford used in the fifties that you can buy at NAPA. It's small enough that you can use it for your individual gauges or large enough to combine two gauges on it by running the power to both through it.

scottyrodgers

GrimGreaser said:

Well, I used the "budget" harness from Speedway Motors, $130, turned out pretty good. If I would have had the money I would have rather used the Painless Wiring Kit. If you want to stay close to "original" you'll spend quite a bit more I think. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Economy-12-Circuit-Wiring-Harness,2352.html http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Painless-12-Circuit-Wire-Harnesses,2358.html

is this a decent kit? easy to install? dont care for the original just ant a safe kit that can be used even if/when upgraded to a 12 v system

50C8DAN

Would recommend replacing the heater fan motor than putting in a reducer resistor.  I did it works much better and the fan blows more air than the old 6V with the reducer:

https://openforum.hetclub.org/discussion/169853/6v-to-12v-fan#latest

They are not that expensive either!

GrimGreaser

For the price, I've never been disappointed in Speedway's parts. The wiring kit was just what I needed to get my car on the road, for as little as possible. My preference is "made in USA" but sometimes (usually) my wallet says "these are good enough, stop bothering me!".