Recore 51 Pacemaker Radiator to look stock
I've been searching the forum for threads on recoring a stepdown radiator with not too much success. Does anyone know if a stepdown radiator can be recored using the original top and bottom tanks and side straps etc. so that it looks just like original when done? If so can anyone point me in the direction of specifics on where to obtain the core that will do it? I have found a lot of threads about using a dodge van radiator but it doesnt look stock. Thanks for any help. Rob
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Comments
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Rob,
I had the radiator in my 54 sedan done by Puget Sound Radiator and Speedometer Repair in the University District in 2004. They used the top and bottom and sides of my original radiator and simply ordered a core to fit from a supplier. Since I am running an aluminum head on the 308 they also added a sacrificial anode to bottom tank, it is screwed into a fitting and can be checked and replaced as needed. If you have any dents in the tank make sure that you ask them to bang them out, they did a beautiful job. The owners name is Pat Cole, we went to Edmonds High School together.
Pat Cole
Puget Sound Radiator and Speedometer Repair
8000 Lake City Way
Seattle, Washington
(206) 524-0886
Hope that helps you along.
John Forkner
(former NW Chapter member, now residing in Kansas)0 -
Rob Fayette wrote:I've been searching the forum for threads on recoring a stepdown radiator with not too much success. Does anyone know if a stepdown radiator can be recored using the original top and bottom tanks and side straps etc. so that it looks just like original when done? If so can anyone point me in the direction of specifics on where to obtain the core that will do it? I have found a lot of threads about using a dodge van radiator but it doesnt look stock. Thanks for any help. Rob0
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My radiator is going into a local shop here in the next 2-3 weeks to get re-cored (changing to a 4-core) and I'll be using the original sides and Top & Bottom. As Walt said, any good radiator shop can do it and order whatever core you want.
One trouble is, there isn't nearly as many good radiator shops anymore due to all the plastic radiators in use in today's vehicles. If you are having trouble finding a good shop, find out where the diesel radiators from big rigs are being repaired. Some of the shops that were around "back in the day" are still around and making their living off of the heavy equipment. This is precisely what my local shop has done to stay in business. Occasionally, they'll do work on older automobile radiators, but they are few and far between these days.0 -
Thanks for the tips guys. I've noticed that everyone that has mentioned recoring they always say they went from a 3 row to 4 rows of tubes. I have a feeling you couldnt stay with 3 rows if you wanted to. The reason I say that is because the 3 row radiators I have seem to have room for a 4th row but dont have it. I would prefer to stay with the 3 row if I can because it will look more stock. Any comments? Rob0
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Rob-
Nothing at all wrong with that. Most of us that up the # of rows do so because of one of two things: either AC is being added and/or we live in the south where it's hotter and the extra capacity allows for quicker, more efficient cooling. If you are not adding AC and since you live in WA(?), stock is certainly adequate.0 -
Rob,
Think of driving to a national meet in Texas where it could get to 115 degrees or even through Eastern Washington to a local meet where it could easily be 100. You may not want to risk traveling out of Whatcom County if you stay with the three core. I think you should allow yourself certain concessions, and nobody will really notice or care that you have a four core radiator. Didn't you deal with an overheating radiator going to Reno?
John0 -
I had the radiator in my '48 Packard recored to 4 core and it really helps in the cooling. It looks stock, cools better, and is basically brand new. Plan on spending upwards of $600 to get this done. It IS worth it however. Like all the others, they used the top and bottom tanks, as well as the brackets, and just put a new core in. I had this done locally here in Wichita, (actually Park City) and the guy's did a wonderful job.0
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My Radiator guy told me this morning that he ordered a 3 row because that is what is in it now. I have to wonder why Hudson didnt put in the 4th if the Hudsons had problems overheating. There is room for the 4th row as Walt pointed out. I didnt have any problems with overheating on the way to Reno that I can remember. I had tremendous problems with fuel pumps though. I went through 2 of the cheapy electric ones and two of the mechanical fuel pumps . What saved me was the hundred dollar rotary electric fuel pump that Fred had me install back by the gas tank. The first mechanical was plugged solid at its inlet filter. The second Mechanical diaphram ruptured; I think because the pump had been rebuilt and was sitting on my shelf for about 10 years. The two cheapy diaphram electrical just wore out, I thought because I was running them constantly. Rob0
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4 core is good parade insurance too!0
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Rob Fayette wrote:My Radiator guy told me this morning that he ordered a 3 row because that is what is in it now. I have to wonder why Hudson didnt put in the 4th if the Hudsons had problems overheating. There is room for the 4th row as Walt pointed out. I didnt have any problems with overheating on the way to Reno that I can remember. I had tremendous problems with fuel pumps though. I went through 2 of the cheapy electric ones and two of the mechanical fuel pumps . What saved me was the hundred dollar rotary electric fuel pump that Fred had me install back by the gas tank. The first mechanical was plugged solid at its inlet filter. The second Mechanical diaphram ruptured; I think because the pump had been rebuilt and was sitting on my shelf for about 10 years. The two cheapy diaphram electrical just wore out, I thought because I was running them constantly. Rob
Rob,
I can't answer why Hudson engineers didn't put in the fourth row, but only allowed space for it. But keep in mind that with today's gasoline differences your car is going to naturally run hotter, that's why so many stock systems that worked fine back in the 'day' are going to vapor lock today. Maybe those engineers knew that these cars would still be running strong 50, 60 years (or more) later, and we'd need that fourth row! I doubt that there are more than a few people on this planet that would be able to tell that you added a fourth core if you're using your stock tanks and side brackets. Doug0 -
I've driven Hudsons & Terraplanes all my life, and never had one overheat, even when using alchohol antifreeze during the unusual winter warmer days. Today, if your factory cooling system is clean, your water pump is functioning properly, and you use a 50-50 mix of perm antifreeze, that Hudson engine should not run over the normal operating temp. I run a 160* thermostat, and the engine never has run over the 3/4 mark on the guage.
Jerry
53jetman0 -
Rob Fayette wrote:I've been searching the forum for threads on recoring a stepdown radiator with not too much success. Does anyone know if a stepdown radiator can be recored using the original top and bottom tanks and side straps etc. so that it looks just like original when done? If so can anyone point me in the direction of specifics on where to obtain the core that will do it? I have found a lot of threads about using a dodge van radiator but it doesnt look stock. Thanks for any help. Rob0
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One of the biggest things people forget to do on these old engines while doing cooling system service is pull the water distribution tube from behind the water pump and clean it, as well as taking a garden hose and flushing out the engine. On all old the engines I've worked on, Hudson and Packard included, there's always about 4" or more of crap plugging the rear of the tube. This means the rear valves aren't being cooled, and is why most of the cracks I've seen on these old engines are at the rear. That, and I feel it runs hotter at the rear because the engine runs leaner with less fuel getting to the rear cylinders than the middle cylinders. At the front two, it's not that big of a deal, since there's so much water there. With better fuel and water distribution, you'll lower your operating temps a little.0
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My radiator got sent off today to the local radiator shop. I'll post pics when I get it back. The shop here in town has been in the same family doing the same business for 77 years. Changes from stock will include a 4 core addition and a polished top tank.0
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I'm for 4 core rad as well. I had mine recored years ago. I should have gone 4 core. I wonder if it wouldn't be a problem having a core added witout much of a problem. Just a thought, how did all those hudson racers race those cars with I believe were stock radiators. Jim0
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I believe that the 8 cylinder engine uses a 4 core rad. and the 6 uses a 3 core from the factory. A 4 core is a good bonus on any recore. You will probably need to make a little change in the radiator mounting adjustments when doing this. The 4 radiator mounting brackets slide back and forth. This pertains to the Stepdown cars. The '47 and earlier radiator cores are different 8 cyl. VS. 6 cyl. in about the same way but mount in 2 different places.0
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