oil bath air cleaners

[Deleted User]
edited January 2013 in HUDSON
Getting to the oil bath cleaner for painting and rebuilding. The filter stuff is so far gone and had mice nests and hornets nests in them that I had to remove it and was thinking to replace it with new . Was wondering if swamp cooler filter would work? Any one haven replaced this with any good ideas? Also the other end of the air cleaner where it fits to the carb has a small filter in it also and it looks to be in need of replacing also. There is no way to access this with out drilling out the spot welds and if any of you Hudson guys have any thoughts about what and how to change this little gause pad,I would be greatfull?
If the only way to get to the carb side filter is to drill it out ,I guess that this is what i have to do ? Has any one ever converted one of these old oil bath cans into a dry filter design?

Comments

  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    hotrodman-

    One option is to simply remove the filter portion of the air cleaner and replace with a modern type filter. K & N makes one that is exactly the right size, but I don't have that info in front of me, at the moment.

    Also, these air filters can be carefully taken apart to be restored. You have to "uncurl" the bent over edge around the canister portion where the ends are crimped onto the cylinder, moving along the edge a little at a time and making several passes around the perimeter, until you can remove the end portion. Oftentimes, it only requires the removal of one end. This makes it much easier to fix any dents while filter is apart, as well. I typically remove the carburetor end of the cylinder, as it makes it easier to blast out the insides so it's clean and smooth.
  • What is correct red color paint or powder coating?
  • I am using ford red as is the engine Ray.The color in the photo is before repainting.

    RL; I will try to research out the K&N filter option and will drill the three spot welds on the top of the carb side top and uncrimp the bent tabs to get at the gause pad.Then just pop rivet it back where the welds were? The rest of the inside is very clean and can just leave it as it is. I was thinking this was only going to take a day to do ,but is going to take up more time as I can't make any mistakes .
  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    hotrodman-

    You don't have to drill anything. Just uncrimp the end around the cylinder itself! This will allow you access to the inside.
  • Ok......Will see how it goes this next work week...Will stay away from drilling any spot welds.Hope to see you next meeting as you have not seen my car yet and I would like you to perhaps ,get some tips on it for future improvements.
  • Interesting pictures, Idont claim to know everything but the length of the part of the cleaner that sits on top of the carb. is much longer than any of my twin H air cleaners. What am I missing??
  • Best set this air cleaner on the carbs to check the fit as I have never even done so? They might not be from this car??? Let it be known that I only know enought to be dangerous..ha
  • Found an air filter that should work.60-80 Chysler.
  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    Yep! That looks about right.
  • And no chance of a oil spill ! My dad had a 61 International truck when I was young . Every now and then it would backfire on start-up. The filter held a quart of oil , it emptied it instantly all over the motor
    :-O
    Roger
  • As far as Hudson folks go I dont think many would fault you for updating your assembly to a paper filter. As soon as they became available Hudson installed them after all, so why not,
    Roger
  • Trying to keep this old ride as stock as it is possable in light of parts available,But some designs were weak like the timing chains,points,this oil bath system,etc. I have nothing against oil bath filters as they do the job but they do have some draw backs.

    The front can for some reason has been drilled ,perhaps to take out a dent and if I can not brase up the holes,perhaps cover them with a fiber glass patch in an matching design of some sort? I need to get a mig,but this metal is so thin am not sure it would work also. Any ideas as to what I can do would help? Got the gause pad out of the carb side and it appears to only be for collecting oil residue and does not cross the air flow. will not replace this design.I had no idea this little project would be eating up so much time.
  • I have run across some with the same type of holes . Not real sure about the reason but dent rmoval is good as any.
    As far as repair goes I would take it apart so you could stick it on a anvil hor or some such thing to back it up . And use a flat body hammer to tap out as good as you can. They should almost close back up. Then get a big soldering iron and solder them up and file smooth.
    I didnt want to indicate the oil bath type was no good. quite the opposite is probably true. I would wager they filter better if properly serviced than a typical paper filter.
    As a matter of fact the filter ones dont filer as good when new as they do after they are run for awhile. The more dirt the better it filers ,but it takes awhile to get built up. Most crittical equipment (big trucks, deisels ,air compressors etc) has a air flow / preasure differential meter on them to signal change times.
    Roger
  • Had the same problem in my '52 Twin H,had no media in the filter didnt want to use horse hair so found some copper wool from "Chevies of the Forties " in California stuffed it in the cannisters and now all is good.

    Bob
  • lostmind
    lostmind Expert Adviser
    Oil Bath filters are preferred in construction equipment. They do a good job and are less expensive to maintain, if they are maintained.
    Just as a side note , the Ford Focus has a lifetime air filter , no service required.
  • Got lucky and found one fluxed brass rod in my stash. No more holes and should get them sanded of filler and painted tomorrow. Did notice that the air tube runs through this can and the air does not inter it at all, so in the end it is all just looks and the fuction would not have be effected by the holes any way?? I am guessing that the fuction of the segragated air flow can is to keep the air cool as it crosses the engine top in ''conjunktion'' with the hood scoop?
  • It probably acts as a muffler too,
    Roger
  • The oil bath air clearners I believe were an option. I believe the standard ones just had something like steel wool as the filters. In those days in my area there were very few paved roads and most driving was done on gravel or dirt roads. The oil bath were much better if you maintained them.Do you remember the signs that used to be on the back of cars that said "Excuse my Dust"?
  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    would those same air cleaners (the 60-80 Chrysler) work with 48-50 oil bath air cleaners?
  • The air filters are 8'' in dia., and 3'' tall??
  • That is it..It all worked out.
This discussion has been closed.