Need help with wiring a relay...

jjbubaboy

I want to add a relay to my 36T headlight switch.
It is still 6 volt and I have the standard type 5 pin 6 volt relay.
The switch is just a simple off and on. It has several wires from it for park lights, headlights, etc. First click for park lights, second for all lights.
Right now it gets power from the hot side of the key switch, so the lights can be on when the key is off.
How do I wire the relay so I can have at least the park lights on with the key off?
Will the relay be able to be wired so that it is 'hot' all the time, or will it burn up?
Do I need to use a 'solenoid' or different type of 'relay'?
Thanks!
Jeff

Jon B

Use a 6-volt headlight relay. You can buy single or double (that is, to control just the high beam or one that controls both high and low beams). You can still find NOS ones and I'm pretty sure you can find brand new ones as well. If there is any question you want to make sure it will handle the correct amperage of your lights but a headlight relay ought to be able to do that.

In my case, I left the wiring from the starter switch to the headlight switch, and from the headlight switch to the floor (hi-lo beams) exactly as it was.

However, I re-routed the wires from the floor switch: the high beam wire went to the "high beam" portion of the new dual relay. The "low beam" wire from the switch ran to the "low beam" portion of the new relay. (Either relay on the dual relay will work for high or low beam. Or, you may have one single relay for high, and another single relay for low.)

From the "high beam" relay, the wiring then goes directly to the high beam contacts on both headlights. From the "low beam" relay, the wiring goes direction to the low beam contacts.

I ran the actual power feed for the relay (and thus the headlights) from the "Batt" terminal on my voltage regulator. Someone may jump in here, and suggest a better source for the power, but that's what I did and it seems to work.

A couple further suggestions: you can mount the relay behind the left dashboard panel on Hudsons, behind the steering wheel (if the wheel's on the left, of course!). I even installed a glove box hinge on that panel so that it swings down for easy wiring access. Then, no one sees the relay and everything looks ''period''.

The other suggestion is to install a terminal block for the headlights in the engine compartment. It makes it so much easier when connecting the headlights, to see exactly where the wires from the parking lights, high, and low beams all come together. And makes rewiring much easier if you have to remove either of the headlights. You might also consider running a ground wire (soldered to each socket) between each headlight and the frame. That often brightens your light.

Oh--and get your reflectors re-silvered! And consider using one of the new 6-volt halogen lamps, which should fit right into your original socket.

jjbubaboy

Sounds about right Jon. Thanks.
Dont need to re-silver as have already done sealed beam conversions.
Got my relay all hooked up and all is good until I turn on the parking lights and then the aftermarket turn signal-then everything flashes! Dash lights, both signals (weakly) and gen light.
What ;the heck did I do wrong???
Jeff

Jon B

What did you do wrong? You re-wired it incorrectly, LOL! (THAT's a helpful comment, right?)

Don't know about the aftermarket signals, guess you'll have to study the diagram and scratch your head.

I used a switch from a circa 1952 Hudson in my '37, which fit my steering column perfectly (though possibly yours might be narrower). I think it has about six wires coming out of it. The brake lights run thru the signal box so you use the same "bright" filament for both brakes and signal, then the "dim" filament is for the taillights. On the front of the car I used aftermarket accessory lights and wired them to the other wires coming from the signal box. Later I found the actual fender lights for my car, so turned them into the front signal lights. I like the Hudson box because, unlike the aftermarket signal boxes, it is not large and gaudy and chrome, but almost disappears under the hub of the steering wheel. Has its own metal raceway to carry the wiring down the steering column and a special casting to take the wiring up under the dash. Painted black, you'd swear the thing was "factory". An added plus, about the Hudson switch, is that you can make it self cancelling by cutting a hole in the steering column jacket, then mounting a hose clamp around the steering shaft, which acts as a canceler.

jjbubaboy

HA, HA, funny guy!! LOL
Scratched my head plenty too!
Kinda figgered I got something bass ackwards! Just not quite sure how.....or what!
My signals are 'another brand' box that fits behind the dash and runs a toggle switch to the shift lever. Its connected by a phone type cable and works really slick! oR at least it used too ~X(
Guess maybe I am getting the wrong kind of 'feedback' from somewhere on the wiring I guess......
Jeff

faustmb

I would recommend wiring the coil sides of the relay first, that way you can make sure the relay cycles as it should before you worry about the load side (lights). Then add lights a circuit at a time and test.
If your looking for a modern relay, check with a VW supplier. They still supply a good selection of 6v stuff, including 30a Bosch relays.
Make sure the relay you use is intended for lights. I would not want to rely on a horn relay for example, as it was only designed for short bursts of load.