Temp gauge question
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I can't seem to find the proper sending unit for my 55 Hornet, so I'm thinking I can put a resistor in line to make my gauge read correctly. Now it reads almost all the way hot while a temperature reading is actually 185, I'm thinking an in line resistor will bring it down to about half way on the gauge but I don't know how to determine how much resistance is needed. Any ideas???
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Comments
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Try 5 Ohm increments.
However, I must say that I tried this recently as well and all it really did was slow the reading. So once it reached full operational temperature, it was indicating at the same place.
NAPA has a 6v temp sender but I forgot to write down the SKU.0 -
I have Echlin #TS-6464 in my old swaps book for a sender number from NAPA . Has anyone tried that one ?
Roger0 -
I don't have the original any more, thinking I had bought the correct sending unit I threw the broken one away. So I have tried different Standard units, I've tried a number 4 and number 5 and both go almost all the way up, I think Hudson used the AC sending units but I can't find any reference to the correct unit. I will see if the NAPA dealer here can get the Echlin unit, Roger is that for the 55 Hornet?
Harry0 -
Thats what my book shows . It lists a different one for 56 & 57,
Roger0 -
Thank you, I'll give that number a try.
Harry0 -
I put an ohm meter in line today and hot the ohm meter was reading 25, then would jump to 30, then drop back to 25, then back up, back and forth but the temp gauge was showing cold, took the ohm meter out and hooked up the wire and it goes back to reading hot. I don't understand what I'm seeing but I will try the Echlin TS6464, they aren't so expensive that I can't give one a try.
Harry0 -
On my Pacemaker I put a 56ohm resistor to earth to get the reading more accurate and seems a good result so far. Initially I tried a 37ohm but that passed too much current to earth - trial and error.
Good luck.0 -
It sounds like your car has a voltage regulator in the dashbord and you were seeing it operate . That was the pulse in readings you saw I'd think.
Roger0 -
would that effect the ohms or could it be that this sending unit is the on / off type that pulses to the meter0
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going to NAPA today to get the TS 6464
Harry0 -
I dont know for sure - would need to look at the wiring diagram. You are right however I think there was a point where they changed from variable resistor to the type you describe bi-metal click on and off type . The fact my book shows a different number for the next two years means some change took place in 56 . That may have been just when 12- volt started - I dont recall wanted to think it was 55,
Roger0 -
I'm pretty sure sometime in the 50's they switched from the on/off type to the resistor type, just don't know when that happened. I'm still going to try that number you gave me. For 12 bucks it's better than just spinning my wheels guessing
Harry0 -
Maybe the switch to idiot lights brought on the on/off types?
Harry0 -
It's the same unit as was used on the 1960 Falcon & Comet (as well as many other models of the 1960's Ford products)0
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Thanks, I used to have a 60 Falcon wagon, believe it or not I pulled a horse trailer with it. It was not the right tool for that job, almost got me and the horse killed coming down the Cajon Pass in California, you would be surprised how fast a falcon wagon can go with a horse trailer pushing it down the hill.
Harry0 -
Okay, an update on the temp gauge issue. I installed the Eichlin TS6464 temp sending unit and it brought the needle on the gauge down a little. No where near where I would like it and if the engine runs just a little hot it will be pegged. I'm not sure which direction to go next but at least now the needle isn't pegged all of the time now.0
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A question, I've been putting teflon tape on the threads when I installed the temp unit, could that effect the reading by not getting a good ground to the engine?
Harry0 -
Harry, they went to the resistive type gauges in '51. This type is somewhat sensitive to having correct voltage, thus the addition of the "voltage regulator" that year. VR in quotes because it 's actually a make-and-break device that provides an average current to the gauges. This average current is equivalent to a steady voltage of about five volts. There are several electronically regulated instrument VR's out there, including one from Dennis Carpenter Ford Parts, big repro parts house here in the Charlotte area. Advantage of the electronically regulated ones is that they handle a pretty wide range of input voltage, so can be used for 12v conversions or merely replacing the original on a 6v car.0
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And yes, the teflon is a definite "no-no-" on most automotive applications, especially electrical and fuel. Gasoline eventually softens the teflon and it shreds and blocks up pump valves and jest, and in electrical, like the temp gauge it can insulate from ground.0
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Thanks guys, I know about teflon on the fuel but I never thought about it on a temp gauge until I asked about it the other day. It suddenly occurred to me that I could be creating my own problem. I will pull off the teflon today. I also plan on getting Walts book on converting to 12 volt. There is just way to much anticipation and stress when I turn over that 6 volt starter, especially when it's really cold out.
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Generaly the 6-volt starter does turn slower ,inparticular on a eight in cold weather. BUT if the motor is kept in tune and the electrical system maintained . It will surprise you and start an the second time it crawls around . Mine allways did ,one thing that's a issue now however is the gas. The engine heat often boils the gas out of the carb when you shut engine off. Then when starting 2 weeks later you have an empty carb that has to fill by cranking. If you have a electric fuel pump as a back-up that is great - just run for a few seconds to fill carb and start up .
Otherwise pump gas a couple times and then crank motor a few seconds . Stop and pump gas a couple times and crank engine some more. Stop and pump gas then crank and keep this up till your running.
Never want to do this on a warm or hot engine you will flood it . But on a stone cold one that will get it going with out excessive wear on starter ,
Roger0 -
You're certainly right on today's gas!!! With the fuel injection, it seems the boiling point has been getting lower and lower. And gasahol doesn't help, either. I usually take the fuel filters out of the Carters on the Twin-H and prime the carbs. Starts right away then. I have a set of Clifford headers ordered and hope that reduces the heat to the carbs in the summer. I am also considering running coolant in the heat riser passages in the intake. It may need some heat!!!! Last time I started it and let it warm up on fast idle, the carbs were iceing up on the outside of the throttle base!!!0
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I have an electric pump and I set up the AMC type fuel system where the fuel keeps circulating back to the tank to prevent vapor locking. I have an electronic ignition and new coil, normally once the car has been running it will start right up but if it sits for a few days it can be obstinate, it doesn't matter if it's hot out or cold. The load of running the starter seems to steal power from the ignition. If the battery is freshly charged, either from the maintenance charger or from running it fires much quicker. My chokes have never worked correctly so I have to flood it to start it when it's cold but I just turn it over once it's been run being careful not to flood it. The other thing is if I convert to twelve volts I can quit listening to AM radio. I now know all the songs on Radio Disney and the sound of a twelve year old girl squealing to the DJ is making me crazy.
Harry0 -
here is an update on the temperature sending unit problem I'm having. I removed the teflon tape and now the temp gauge is actually reading higher, even though the temp at the themostat housing is only reading 185. This is driving me crazy.
Harry0 -
Try putting a 56ohm resistor from the sending unit side of the gauge to earth. For me, the less current running through the gauge, the higher it read. So using the resistor puts more through, and for me, did bring it closer to a sensible reading. I used an electronic laser thermometer for reassurance I was on the right track. You may have to try different resistors of varing rating to get it to where you are happy.0
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At last, after putting up with the guys at the LPS tapping on their computers and telling me nothing is listed on the TS unit for a 55 Hudson, I got the help I needed from a young lady at the NAPA who wasn't afraid to open the book, low and behold the book showed a TS 6164 for the temp sending unit. I installed it today and the needle now comes up about a 1/4 of the way on the gauge. At least now it isn't all the way up and I should be able to tell if the car is over heating. It was my 4th trip to the NAPA store and 6 different sending units with guessing. Don't ask me why no one bothered to look in the book before but there it was, 1955 AMC/Hudson. I'm back on the road.0
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Hmmm I wonder if she can cook ? John0
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John, I know that her adult kid called her about something, then when she hung up she told she let him live with her to help pay bills. So she is probably available.
Harry
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Every temp unit is marked on the bottom with numbers, this one was marked 40, I don't know if that is the resistance but I know they are all marked differently0
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