Updates on the 52 Pacemaker

[Deleted User]

Hi guys
I felt it was time for an update. Here are some pics of the progress. There has been too much done to list it all, but it looks like I will be able to make it to the Nationals!
Also I am missing a few parts if anyone can help it would be much appreciated.
52 pacemaker hood prop rod, in the group parts book on page 30 the d2-7 and d2-6 clutch link pedal assist spring and return spring, shift lever knob, and one front leaf spring eye bolt keeper.

[Deleted User]

Here are some more pictures of the progress. I currently have over 2000 pictures of the progress and much much more finished than what is here. Everything mechanical has been fully cleaned, inspected, rebuilt, adjusted, and painted. I am almost done with the engine, and I will start making the wiring harness soon too. Getting closer everyday.

Richie

Great work, be proud. !! Richie

hudsonsplasher1

Looking good!!!

54SuperWasp

Very talented! Thanks for the pics! Can't wait to see that car! Michel

Val

NICE!! Great pics!

[Deleted User]

I have the spring you ask about , but what do you mean by "Eye Bolt Keeper" ? Do you mean the bolt /pin that secures the front of the rear leaf spring to the frame? If so I have one also.
Lookks like the car is coming together nicely,
Roger

[Deleted User]

Roger
This is the part that I need. I have one however the other is missing. Also included are pics of the two clutch parts I need as well as the shift knob.

Also I wanted to thank everyone for the kind comments, I am looking forward to driving this car as a daily, so I'm trying to get all of the mechanicals in tip top shape before I finish the cosmetics.

Kdancy

Great! Very good project ! Where are you located?

[Deleted User]

I am currently in Kansas as of now, attending the Mcpheson College auto restoration program. On my spare time I work on the Hudson south-east of Wichita in Clearwater.

hudsn47

This is a great post and I can tell you are enjoying your labors and doing great work. Try stepdownplastics.com for your turn signal knob. I see Roger above has weighed in already on the springs. Again thanks for taking the time to post your progress. Doug

[Deleted User]

As far as the spring goes there are a few variations all of witch are interchangeable for all practical pourposes. Some had that link some did not ,some had that link and one or two small ones on the other end. I have the long one piece one currently in stock. As stated the knobs are being reproduced and you can find original ones if you look. I think Eshelman has them also . I jsut sold one of those little metal clips dont think I have one right now.
Roger

[Deleted User]

That sounds great, I would be interested in the one piece spring. Also I am missing the speedometer cable for the car. Now I have looked on ebay and other sources and since I have the overdrive on a short wheelbase Hudson the typical plug in style of cable that is widely available will not work, since I have an angle drive in the place of the plug in fitting. Do you know any one who might have this part?
Also I have looked at stepdownplastics for the shift knob, though the style of shifter knob that my car came with is longer and more pointed than what looks to be available.

Ric West IN

Your shift knob appears to be the 41-47 type, possibly a replacement or previous owner preference. Knob should match your steering wheel color for this era.

You are doing beautiful work!

I know I shouldn't ask, but why black on bell housing and trans ?

Keep having fun!

"Ric"

[Deleted User]

I have looked at a few other 52 Pacemakers, all of which had the same shift knob. On top of that the dealership brochure shows this as well. THOUGH I DO KNOW THAT IS NOT ALWAYS AN ACCURATE RESOURCE. The black on the bell housing and trans is because I didn't know any better. What color is it supposed to be, silver? I do try my best to do my homework on these details because it is important to me; so If you see something else odd please let me know.
Thank you for the input.

Ric West IN

Yes, siver like the engine.

"Ric"

[Deleted User]

Is there room for a speedometer cable to go straight in ? That item looks like an adapter to correct for speed being off.

[Deleted User]

It is used to clear the frame. It is a one to one ratio angle drive. The base is the same as a normal speedometer cable but a normal speedo cable would have trouble fitting. When I looked around I believe that I found that a normal Hudson Speedo cable is somewhere around 71 in long. A Wasp or Pacemaker should be around 86 in long; though the O/D trans has this angle drive which is making it very hard to find the correct cable.

[Deleted User]

Hi all
I have been terribly busy since the national and I just haven’t had time to post or do much with the Pacemaker. But I’m back on track now, and here is a small update with pics on where I am with the car.
I have been trying very hard to find pictures of any other 1952 Pacemakers for reference material. I have everything Google has to offer, picture wise. Anything would be great but I really need pictures of the engine bay and interior of a very original car. Details are very important to me, so anything would be greatly appreciated.

Also I bought a second 52 Pacemaker as a good reference car. This thing as amazing as it is exactly 300 cars newer from my car by vin number (4b151167-4b151467). They are almost twins too, same original dark blue color, 4 dr sedans; however this one has a radio, an optioned 262, and a standard transmission.

Thanks all,
Brandon

[Deleted User]

Also I am looking for an original carb linkage "return spring" for a standard trans on this car. I have looked everywhere and all I can find are replacement springs or the setup was modified. I included a picture of the correct linkage but I can’t really see any definitive details.

I also had a question regarding correct color scheme of an optioned Directional indicator on a Pacemaker. In the parts book it lists two numbers for the housing. I assume that it is painted Brown to match the column. I have the unit but it is off a 53 Hornet and is chromed.

Also I need some pictures of the under column tube that routes the wires under the dash.

bobdriveshudson2

Great work, nice pics, enjoying watching your posts. Hope you will continue to finish. What color body?
We have a very poor condition 52 wasp brougham, but buildable. We started work, but other projects interfeared. Looking forward to your next post. Thanks, Bob

[Deleted User]

Thank you very much Bob, truth be said I won't be able to get a decent nights sleep until she is on the road. To answer your question the color is Texas Tan with a Cream top. I like the color but I will need to eventually repaint it, as it was not done properly. For now it will be run as is. Your 52 Wasp Brougham is a very rare bird. I hope that you will be able to finish it. Good luck on your project!

Here are some pictures of the wiring harness that I have started for the car. I found inconsistencies with the original wiring diagram. So I made wrote out 7 pages of notes with diagrams showing every detail, based off of my original harness. My hope is to get as close as possible to original, with some heaver wire where it counts.

I also forgot to mention, I am looking for a complete front parking light socket in good condition. I have one in perfect shape, but the second is rusted out. I included a picture of the socket.

Kdancy

Brandon, very nice work!
Where did you source your wiring parts from? I am going to make a harness up for the 52 Wasp.
What did you finish your fuel pump housing with?
Aren't those speedo-clocks fun to work on with the goo under the lenses!
What are you using for engine-drivetrain paint? I live in a high humidity area and am not happy with the por-15 and other engine paints I have used. I'm going to try some urethane on the 52 I am doing.
Thanks for posting the up-date!

[Deleted User]

I have sourced almost all of my wiring supplies from Rhode Island Wire. They are very reasonable, and have quality materials that are hard to find anymore. You are not kidding about those speedometers and clocks! That tar took me many hours of VERY CAREFULL scraping to get it all off. Then to find a paint that would not make original lacquer paint react badly. What a great challenge!!

For engine paint I have been using VHT high temp paint, as it tends to be very fuel resistant as a rattle can paint goes. The rest has been done with good acrylic enamel. Not the best, but it is the best I can do with what I got right now. The one thing I got going for me is my preparation is very thorough.

I used to have access to a paint booth, When I did I found that a polyurethane paint would hold up to anything you could do to it. Polyurethane tends to be a bit too glossy for undercarriage work. But you can get a flattening agent to reduce the gloss now! I have used a few different types of polyurethanes but my favorite was always Cardinal industrial paints. They really sprayed nicely and looked great.

PAULARGETYPE

YOU MAY WANT O GO TO THE HET CLUB SITE AND SAVE THESE PHOTOS FOR OTHERS TO USE AS GIDE FOR OTHER RESTOS

PAULARGETYPE

WOOPS

[Deleted User]

Paul this would be a major undertaking. I have close to 3,000 pictures! Though, I could pick some of the more relevant pictures out of the files. All of the pictures are in very high resolution and categorized by the restoration of almost each part and major section of the car. If someone needed pictures of a particular section I would be happy to forward the file to them though. In total the major file is around 10 Gigs of memory.

[Deleted User]

I just finished making the tool for the lower support arm on the Hudson. I got a little carried away with the letter punches. I will be starting on the spreading tool for the upper control arm soon.  <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

I also am finishing some rods to replace two that were 50 grams too light. I am inspecting everything to make sure nothing is wrong or damaged. I also noticed what looks like factory markings to designate rod weights. All of my rods but two were marked 1 1 and were 940 grams, but the other two were 14 with a little 8 in the corner were both 890 grams. So I located 5 more rods that were 1 1 marked. Then I will check large and small end weight to match everything.