Best Way to Start a 6v System Hudson for the "first time"

[Deleted User]

Hi All,
So it's time for me to try and start the Hudson for the "first time" (meaning, first time since I've purchased it). Had the gas tank removed, boiled, sealed, I reinstalled it. Oil is fresh, plugs are fresh, etc etc etc. I know the car was driving within the last 2 years before i bought it, so it's not one of those "sitting for 10 years" situations.
I have Drive Master, and I'm not sure if it's hooked up or not, but it SEEEMS like it is from everything i can tell. The car is still also a 6v system. I know there's some charge to it because i can get the headlights and tail lights and brake lights to work (though no other lights or accessories seem to come on, I'm guessing/hoping blown fuses).
From what I've read, with a 6v system (of which I've never had any experience with) when you connect the battery you need to wait a few hours before trying to start up the car. I also sprayed some carb cleaner over the carb (not in it). How do you guys suggest I go about firing this baby up for the "first time"? Anything particular I should do or not do?

[Deleted User]

I just went for it. That is when I learned the gaskets in the carb were shot as I was leaking fuel and almost lost the car in flames.

I gave it a shot of starting fluid since I knew the carb and fuel line was empty. If you have a 6V battery charger, put it on the battery you have and see what the status is. There may enough for lights but not enough to really get is started after one or two attempts.

Park_W

Don't know where you got that "wait a few hours after connecting the battery." Old wives' tale maybe. Anyway, it's not required. Best thing is to be sure the battery is up to full charge. If you don't have an electric fuel pump to fill the carb bowl, consider removing the air cleaner for access, then remove the big brass nut on the top of the float bowl and use a small funnel to fill the carb bowl with gas. Pour slowly. And don't forget to put the brass cap back in place!!! (Otherwise you'll have a gasoline fountain when the engine starts or turns over enough that the fuel pump pumps).

[Deleted User]

Sounds like this is going to be interesting.......ok I should confess that I couldn't help myself and DID try to start it briefly last night, the engine turned over and everything (slooooowly) but didn't fire up. I didn't want to mess with it anymore plus I was tired. I think the battery charge is really low...I had dim headlights and stuff, which get brighter aftger about 5 minutes. I thought I recalled somewhere that if the car hasn't started for a long time to hook up the battery and give it a few hours to "charge up". Again, probably an old wives tale as you said.

RL Chilton

Your car will not charge unless it is running, without having a battery charger hooked up to the battery. Simply hooking your battery up to the car will not "charge" a weak battery.

Best for you to hook up a charger, or starter charger, if you have one. That will give you the juice to get the engine started, provided all else is well.

Jon B

Okay, we may have been over this so far, but have you checked all the electrical connections at both ends of the battery cable, and the ground strap?

Is everything "bright and tight"?

You DO have the Pos. battery terminal going to the ground, right?

You DO have a correct-gauge battery cable -- much thicker than the standard 12 volt cable?

You DO have one ground strap between engine and battery (Pos. terminal) and another ground strap between engine (or transmission) and frame? And the places where they touch the body or engine have been sanded so they will conduct electricity?

And your battery is a good 6 volt one that has ample CCA (cold cranking amps) of at least 600 (hopefully 700 or 800, though). Not one of those cheapie 6-month wonders?

The lack of any of the above will result in hours of delightful frustration.

By the way...have you checked the compression in each cylinder? (The old 3x5 engines are famous for having their valves hang up through disuse. It may be that, once you fire the car up the sticking valves will free-up, but if most of the cylinders have zilch compression, you may want to pull the head and free-up the valves yourself.)

54SuperWasp

How about having a fire extinguisher on hand? Just in case... Michel

Uncle Josh

Nothing should ever be done for the first time!

If they have been sitting for over 3 days, I have a little bottle of gas to squrt down the carb in addition to filling the carb like Park said.

All the battery connections must be 'bright n'tite', and the points have to be clean. If an extra plug grounded to the block doesn't spark, drag some emery paper between the points.

If you want it to turn over faster, use an 8V tractor battery, or you can use a 12V in short spurts to get it started. Make sure the lights are off. 12V will blow them but 8V shouldn't.

[Deleted User]

Well sadly the Drive Master has been removed (expect for the controls on the dash). Bummer, I was looking forward to trying that out. The guy I bought it from said it had Overdrive, and that he had driven it with the Overdrive but it was tricky. Seems odd that someone would pull out the Drive Master and replace it with the OD tranny (which from what I've heard is hard to come by). I also found a service shop receipt where it states they added a switch under the dash (and it is there) to engage the OD. Weird.
I think the battery is just low on charge, its a 650 CCA battery, looks to be only a year or two old. I'll put it on a charger before going any further. And yes I do have a fire extinguisher!!!!!!
A lot of the wiring under the bonnet is new. I know that doesn't mean it was done WELL, just that it is pretty new and shiny. Hopefully I can fire it up by the weekend!

[Deleted User]

I would guess that by "Tricky" he must mean they just ran power to the overdrive solenoid thru that switch. You can do that but there are a couple controls involved for safe operation and to prevent damage.
Roger

[Deleted User]

That's what he did, there's just a wire running from the switch thru the firewall, to a junction, and then down to the transmission. Hope he did a good job.

[Deleted User]

The biggest thing to remember is if it is in overdrive it "CANNOT" roll backward or go in reverse. Doing so will destroy something gear wise ,hence the interlocks and safety switch's.
Roger

[Deleted User]

I've got that lever under the dash (the factory OD lockout lever) to lock it out. At this point I can only assume that it is operational as I haven't tried it yet. I am really impressed with the mechanical complexity of the Hudson in this era. Of course, like all mechanical complexity, that's a double-edged sword.

[Deleted User]

Tallent R you meant make sure to lock out OD before going in reverse, right?
Anyway I know it's been a couple of weeks I got another project that's tying me up but I did get my Hudson to fire up (took a bit of coaxing) but it seems to run nice. Haven't driven it out of the garage yet though....that's waiting for me this weekend.

[Deleted User]

No , I meant that is why there are interlocks and safety devices . Because if they were not there you could try to back up with overdrive in . It can't do that,
Roger

[Deleted User]

I wouldn't worry about hurting it. Put the car in neutral in case the clutch is stuck. Prime it with some gas and fire her up. If that doesn't start it. Pull the overdrive button out and push or pull it down the road. That should start it. I have had cars that sat for 5-10 years without starting and this has worked. If you are worried about oil pressure, turn it over without the coil wire in until the oil light goes out then hook the coil wire back up. If the six volt wont start it , with everything turned off have someone while its turning over jump it with a 12 volt battery. As soon as it starts have the person disconnect the 12 volt battery. There is nothing complex about a Hudson or any car that old. Oh , if you have to push or pull put it in 3rd gear to start.

[Deleted User]

hi guys, yeah it started up fine. Haven't driven a manual for like....hmmmm....20+ years have to get used to it again!

Aaron D. IL

Hudson is about the easiest manual to get used to. Don't have to shift often.

[Deleted User]

Yes ,and such a smooth clutch and good torque its hard to kill,
Roger

[Deleted User]

I've killed it often but then again, I think I'm knocking more rust off myself than I am knocking off the Hudson hahaha. One thing I am noticing....with the Handyshift...from neutral going up and forward takes it into Reverse, but i thought pulling it back (towards the driver) would put it into first, but it won't move into that position. It just konks out when I do that.

[Deleted User]

I would guess from those symptoms it is sticking in two gears at once. That would kill it when you let the clutch out with no movement of the car. However you didn't say if it goes backward in the reverse position. Is the overdrive disengaged ? Is your shift cable moving as it should - they tend to get forgotten as far as oiling goes. That includes the lever on the column, it needs to move up and down freely,
Roger

[Deleted User]

Hey Roger,

The shifter does seem to move up and down easily, and it will go into reverse easily. However when i then pull the lever back towards me that's when it seems to not want to go anywhere. I'm not sure if you recall but I do have OD on this car and someone installed (for lack of a better term) a dummy switch under the dash to turn it on or off and I have it in the off position, however I'm not sure if the stock OD slide lever is working or not. I'll check on that when I'm out at the shop tonight. If I recall, it's pushed all the way IN at the moment (which i know is the opposite of what it should be now that I think about it).