More Paint Questions for '37 Terraplane
Comments
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I believe semi gloss is correct. But wait for another reply to verify.0
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Firewall and inner fenders were painted body color, remember at the factory, body was painted separate from the chassis.
fenders were painted before final assembly. In your case gloss black.
"Ric"0 -
@Rick West IN - I never ran the vin to know if black was the original color for the car. If I find out a)it did not start its life black and I wanted to go back to factory or b)I decide to paint her a different color, perhaps 2-tone with black fenders, would the firewall and inner fenders need to be painted the new body color to be correct? Just a "what if" question, we are good to go with black at this time.
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Hey its your car, whatever you wish.
being a "narrow minded purist" I would be happy if you went with any color close to what was offered. You will not get any paint info from the vin. Strictly a model/production number.61
is for Terraplane Deluxe, 62 is Terraplane Custom.
There are quite a few 36 T;s with fenders painted other than body color. Not strictly stock,but Hudson would do most anything paint and trim wise to make a sale. Later 30's H+T's had a
paint code letter or number stamped on the upper pass. door hinge. Not sure about 36.
The inside of the trunk area often reveals the original color as many repainting do not want to
go with the extra cost and effort of prepping and painting this area.
Remember this is supposed to be fun! Don't stress over minor details unless it is a priority
for you.
"Ric"0 -
Here is something you might want to get to help with your decision. Anything period accurate will look good.0
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Here is the chart for 1937.0
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Thanks, I did get one of those paint charts off eBay and then I found another in the car when I was going through it after the fact so I am well-stocked on paint chips, ha! @ Rick - I agree it's all for the fun of it. My objective is to just jump in and go whenever the mood strikes me - out to lunch, grocery shopping, garage sale-ing whatever. Never my intention to push her off a trailer and shove mirrors under her. I respect the choice of those who do, but that's not my style. I'm more of a factory gal so I'm trying to do my best without driving myself nuts, so that's why I ask the questions. I appreciate all the advice and direction I have been given thus for by members of the Forum - thank you all!0
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If you are painting the car yourself, the darker the color the less effort to do the job. Of course black has some issues of its own. "Resale red" or mid to dark green are also good. If you are having someone paint it, do as much prep work as you can. If the shop does final sand and paint you will save a lot of money. I would also consider a company like MAACO to do the work. You can figure 10 grand at most shops. The discount places would be under 2 grand. If this is a driver, doing the work yourself or one of the discount houses is a good way to go.0
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My 37T Brougham (ex-Duke Marley) hasn't been painted (or only partly), and the firewall and inner fenders are body color. But what I find interesting is that the insides of the opening parts of the hood are just primer and overspray - Hudson clearly didn't bother much about the finish in that area (and that bit is DEFINITELY original). But how many restorers would ever do that? Everyone I have ever met would put a nice finish on the inside of the hood, as on the outside. But it wouldn't be correct!0
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The resto on the car appears to have been done back in the 70's, nothing since. The bondo is an inch plus thick on the fenders - i know this because some one (other than me) ran into something and cracked a big chunk off. Good part is that there is no rust on the car. I climbed underneath and found no cancerous holes - they did not bother to knock out the dents, just filled them in, sanded and painted. I need to recover from the engine rebuild before I think about bodywork and paint. We may undertake the project ourselves since probably not a color change, at least the bodywork and take it somewhere to shoot it. I did inquire at my "regular" body shop and they won't touch it, antique autos in general as they are too time consuming. They won't even do just paint. May try to dig up some phone numbers of the local "old timers" who did work for members of the Antique Car Club of America of which hubby used to be a member.0
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The resto on the car appears to have been done back in the 70's, nothing since. The bondo is an inch plus thick on the fenders - i know this because some one (other than me) ran into something and cracked a big chunk off. Good part is that there is no rust on the car. I climbed underneath and found no cancerous holes - they did not bother to knock out the dents, just filled them in, sanded and painted. I need to recover from the engine rebuild before I think about bodywork and paint. We may undertake the project ourselves since probably not a color change, at least the bodywork and take it somewhere to shoot it. I did inquire at my "regular" body shop and they won't touch it, antique autos in general as they are too time consuming. They won't even do just paint. May try to dig up some phone numbers of the local "old timers" who did work for members of the Antique Car Club of America of which hubby used to be a member.
Sounds like a very good plan!0 -
By the way, Joyce, have you seen the salesman's guide for the '37 H & T's? This contains a lot of info and photographs about components of the car, which could be helpful in restoration. http://hetclub.org/burr/sales/1937_hudson_salesmans_booklet.pdf It's on the new Club website. It's listed in the 1930's sales literature on the Library menu. You may need to be registered at the HET site to view it, but of course registration is included in HET membership. Limited-use members (free registration) may be able to view the "library" items as well.0
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