308 block pulled from storage
Well, I finally pulled the original block for my Hornet out of storage in hopes of putting it back in the car one day while i build a hotter motor out of the one I am currently running.
First thing I checked was the serial number and it is correct to the car. Yay! I then popped out the cam (#306344) and unbolted the crank. Now its a completely bare block ready to go to cleaning.
But then I flipped it over once I got it on the engine stand. Suffice to say, I am less confident now.
Really bad pitting in #5 exhaust valve area.
Cyls 1, 3, and 6 have cracks from the intake valve seat through to the cylinder wall.
I'm not opposed to just hot rodding this block as both are 53's, but I don't know if this is salvageable. Are the cracks too deep into the cyl walls to be removed by relieving?
First thing I checked was the serial number and it is correct to the car. Yay! I then popped out the cam (#306344) and unbolted the crank. Now its a completely bare block ready to go to cleaning.
But then I flipped it over once I got it on the engine stand. Suffice to say, I am less confident now.
Really bad pitting in #5 exhaust valve area.
Cyls 1, 3, and 6 have cracks from the intake valve seat through to the cylinder wall.
I'm not opposed to just hot rodding this block as both are 53's, but I don't know if this is salvageable. Are the cracks too deep into the cyl walls to be removed by relieving?
0
Comments
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If you want to fix that engine it can be fixed. Its a mater of can you find someone in your area that knows how to do it . Basicly a block doesnt not need to be trashed unless you don't want to fix it. The cylinder could be sleeved ,the crack could be drilled and taper pins driven in the crack to fill it. A new seat could be put in even.
Roger0 -
Sounds like my block... 3, 4 exhaust seats cracked through to cylinder. I have been told by guys on this forum that *usually* 7X or late style releiving can remove those types of cracks.0
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Yeah, 7X (or better) is what I'm going for with one of the engines. I just kinda hoped the numbers matching block would be my mild mannered mill, and the other one would be my street racer block. Doesn't really matter, just a matter of preference.
If you need me, I'll be over at http://21stcenturyhudson.net/products2.htm...0 -
One question: is it advisable to get the whole block magnifluxed to look for other cracks?
I say this, because someone I know recently sold someone else that I know, a 308 block. After the buyer spent a lot of time and money rebuilding the engine he discovered (upon starting it) that the block had a hairline crack and water was coming out. This crack was so subtle that it was neither seen by the seller or the buyer.
Not to be an alarmist, but it occurs to me that you might want to check everywhere for other cracks, lest you spend a lot of money re-doing this thing only to find out you're gonna have to spend more!0 -
Jon B, that's on the short list. Dreaming is cheap so I'm starting with that.
Does anybody have experience with having these blocks welded? Will the metal content cause issues? In case all goes wrong...0 -
I just sent this company a 7x exhaust manifold and adaptor to weld.
Check this thread
http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1207170 -
Hornet53 , there are a lot of Hudson engines running with cracks as bad yours.
Some owners don't know , others just do a valve and ring job and drive them.
My daily drivers in the '70's and '80's had those cracks.
Never gave a problem I was aware of.0 -
The problems "Smokestak" has is why you pin it instead of welding it - cold process,
Roger0
This discussion has been closed.
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