Drop the Engine...easier said than done
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Seems simple enough. Take it out, put it back in. Not the case here. The machine shop was "kind" enough to lend us an adjustment tool to align the clutch plate within the housing - it was pretty much worthless and frustrating as it lost its hold as we tightened or let loose as we wrenched on the bolts to tighten the housing down. At this point, the only thing to do was eyeball it and go for it. Turns out you can't wiggle a 500lb(?) paperweight into place so out it came. Took a break and went back at it - took it out and went through the process again with the same results. Back at it today...
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what are you working on?0
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1937 Terraplane six splasher0
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Trying to put the engine back in the car? I had trouble before doing it with a stepdown and the solution was to jack up the rear end. That gave me an easier angle to slide it back. Sorry if I missed what you were asking.0
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The bigger issue was getting the clutch in alignment, but jacking up the rear end sounds like it couldn't hurt the process (since it looks like it has to come out, again...)0
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You might want to try removing the trans from the car. remove the shifter lever first.
It's easier to get the seal on the bearing to go in the clutch cover. than you can put both
pieces in the car together. You'll need a floor jack to support the trans as you lower it in.
I'm assuming the grill and radiator are out.
Your clutch needs to be centered so the shaft will enter the pilot bearing.
It's best to use studs , or bolts with the heads cut off to support the trans.
Hope this helps. Maybe someone in your area has a trans shaft you can use for line up.0 -
The trans shaft we had was the cause of the difficulty as it would disengage as we tightened the device and/or tightened the bolts on the tranny. After a bit more jostling today, it seems to have seated itself. We pushed her back and forth in and out of gear and the clutch seems to be engaging so I'm thinking we are good. The new motor mounts that I believe to be correct are higher (not compressed) than the old ones so we need longer bolts to crank them down. Wiring has been redone. We need new/correct spark plug wires but they are good enough for now to start her up. All that's left is installation of the other components, fill her up with fluids and turn her over - three days from today (hopefully)!0
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Late to the conversation but glad you got it worked out. I pulled the engine out of my 39 and it was pretty simple (thank God) I rebuilt it with a kit from Dale cooper and it runs smooth.0
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Mine was a bit more complicated - had to send the rods out for re-babbiting...7.5 months later...0
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Sorry to hear that but you got her going now an thats is awsome. Those old slasher sixes have a great old car sound.0
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Hopefully they put oil in the inner pan. You need to be sure before you start it.0
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Most certainly do not forget to do that!!!0
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I'll be sure to check that!0
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With all that juggling trying to get the motor and transmission lined up, I hope there was no damage to the clutch seal.0
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Glad you got it in! I'm sorry I was out of town for the weekend, or I'd have advised you to simply attach the transmission, clutch and engine together, out of the car. Then, hoist the whole thing in as a unit. I did this on my '37 (the whole thing was even longer than yours, 'cause I was attaching an overdrive transmission and there was about 1 millimeter of clearance to the X-frame!). Anyway, I was able to drop the whole shebang into the car, by myself, using one of those rolling engine hoists. If you ever have the do this in the future (and I hope you DON'T!), consider pulling it out / re-installing it as a unit. The only stuff that has to be removed (besides the transmission cover in the floor) is the hood, radiator and grille shell.0
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Thanks Jon B - I'm with you, hope this is a one-time deal! Radiator is back in, starter, generator, fuel pump and carb as well. Just a few more things to hookup and tighten down. The plan is to attend to those items, fill her up with fluids and start her up this evening. Let's have every finger out there in Hudsondom crossed! [-O<0
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My fingers are crossed! Look forward to your positive report!0
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Hey, how do you get that 6th quart of oil into the crankcase tray anyway? Help!!!0
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Great, now there is a hole in the water jacket cover...yeah...there is antifreeze all over the garage floor...0
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The tray needs to be filled BEFORE you bolt it to the engine. It's the only SURE way to know
your rods will have lubrication on startup.0 -
Hole in the water jacket cover? You mean it's rusted out? Or did you accidentally drive a nail through it?
As to filling the dipper tray....doggone....someone recently told me a way to do this....
Might one insert it through the valve covers (through a long tube or turkey baster)?
(Okay, not a turkey baster. But there are holes for the oil to leak down out of the valve chamber, and if you poured a quart of oil into the chamber it would have no place to go but the dipper trays. Right? Especially if you distributed it equally from back to front of engine?)0 -
Nail? Nail? No nails near the splasher ;;) I can see a bubble under the paint, then the antifreeze percolates out, a pinhole at the seam I'm thinking. Valve cover seems the way we are doing it (saving the turkey baster for November) using a grease gun instead
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Live action...0
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If the hole's a pin, you might try a simple solder fill, and then keep an eye on it... At this point, one does not want to stop and spend a week fooling around with the water jacket. One wants to get on the road.0
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Don't start the engine up and rev it. Just gently turn it over by hand (remove spark plugs to make it easier) so you can spread the oil around.0
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Exactly what we are doing, no plugs.0
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I shot video, but I don't think I can upload it here, so this will have to do!0
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That photo - Mixing my 2 favorite occupations!!0
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Joyce, I think it will be less expensive to run it on gasoline.0
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Tee, hee Jon B! You may be right...yet again
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