Lift or Jack points to replace motor mounts
rambos_ride
Senior Contributor
I removed the mini-clown-car radiator tonight. Decided while its out to replace the motor mounts.
I've got some original ones on the 49 I was using for mockup for the 454 and they have the correct patina from sitting outside on the trailer
I'm trying to figure out a safe place to bolt the chain to to lift the front of the engine (I have a cherry picker)...typically with a Chevy I'd use intake manifold, or holes in the front of the block...I'm not seeing anything like that and am not sure you'd want to undo a head bolt!
I think I can wrap some straps around the engine possibly, but just wondering what some others have done to replace the motor mounts while the engine is still in the car?
Thanks!
I've got some original ones on the 49 I was using for mockup for the 454 and they have the correct patina from sitting outside on the trailer
I'm trying to figure out a safe place to bolt the chain to to lift the front of the engine (I have a cherry picker)...typically with a Chevy I'd use intake manifold, or holes in the front of the block...I'm not seeing anything like that and am not sure you'd want to undo a head bolt!
I think I can wrap some straps around the engine possibly, but just wondering what some others have done to replace the motor mounts while the engine is still in the car?
Thanks!
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Comments
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I like the strap idea, Dan, since you have the cherry picker. It's probably not the best idea, but I've thrown a towel between the floor jack and the harmonic balancer and lifted from there. That's most likely last choice. Also, built a 'U' out of 2 x 4's and lifted off of the lip on either side of the pan. It's much safer.
Still like the strap idea best. Ironically, Hudson had these special plates made up that DO actually bolt onto a couple of head bolts. Two plates put together perpindicularly with holes in the vertical plate. That's pretty much how they moved around the blocks whenever need be. Doug Wildrick has one that he uses on a regular basis. Only downside is, you've got to re-torque your head bolts that you remove.0 -
A SHORT PEICE OF CHAIN TAKE OUT 2 HEAD BOLTS AND PUT CHAIN ON BOTH BOLTS 1 ON EACH END OF THE ENGINE I ALWAYS MAKE THE CHAIN A LITTLE LONGER THAN WHAT I'M GOING TO USE IT FOR SO I CAN PUT A BOLT IN THE MIDDLE IN 2 LINKS SO I HAVE A LIFTING LOOP IF I NEED MORE FRONT LIFT I CAN ADJUST THE PRESSURE FRONT TO REAR BY MOVING THE CENTER LOOP IT WORKS EVERY TIME I JUST PAINT IT A COLOR AND REMEMBER WHAT COLOR WITH WHAT ENGINE HUDSON 6 OR 8 CYL. IS BLUE IN MY SHOP0
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Best way is to remove top and lower radiator hoses, then put a block of wood on a floor jack, first remove the nuts from the mounts, and the nuts from the 2 motor mounts bolts, then jack up very slowly till you can remove the mounts. Keep your hands away for only to slip the mounts off and back in. Walts way.0
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Do one mount at a time, easier to control engine moving around.0
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The Strap was the ticket...
Probably one of the easier jobs I've done on any car, it took me longer to pull the tools out and put them away than replacing the motor mounts
Removed the clown-radiator, bottom flimsy shield, took out the motor mount bolts nuts.
Wrapped the Strap around the motor mount tabs and with the cherry picker it was a piece of cake.
BTW..I have air-assist on my cherry picker..the only way to go when you do solo work all the time!
Note how the "new" motor mounts have the perfect patina from sitting on the 49 as mockups!
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What happened to the one in the center,did heat get to it? with it shorter did that cause any problems?0
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Glad you got it, Dan!0
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The mounts are pictured passenger side to drivers on the left. the one with the "pretty bubbles" is from grease + battery acid.
No real issues I could tell other than the rubber was hard as a board, the height on both used ones was about the same.
The biggest difference I can see now is the motor has a definite tilt front to back..I haven't out a guage on it yet..but looks more "normal" to me now as most normally aspirated engines are at about a 6degree tilt.0 -
I pretty much did it "Walt's Way" a few years ago when replacing the front mounts on my '50 Pacemaker Deluxe. In fact, I did it myself, but yes, having someone to help with the movement of the jack would have made the job much easier to accomplish.
Anyway, glad "rambos_ride" brought up this question on how to best replace these engine mounts as I now have to replace the front mounts on my Super Wasp. One mount is the original Hudson one and the other is an AMC square mount (someone pointed this out to me recently when looking at my engine bay). I recently purchased two new front mounts from Dale Cooper.
Dan0
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