Clutch lubrication

parkerm

Guys,
I need some help I am not a mechanic, but I am trying to keep my old 1940 super six in running order. I developed a problem with the clutch and I think it is low on or out of fluid. The car has been sitting more than it has been driven the last couple of years. I took it out for a drive recently and I had trouble shifting into second and third gear; though I was able to get it to go with a little grinding. I thought maybe the clutch had stuck over the winter but now I don't think it is stuck I think it is out of fluid. I say that because I could feel lots of heat coming through the floor or firewall. I checked the temp gauge and it showed the engine running cool. I only drove about 8/10's of a mile but there was a lot of heat. As I thought about it I began to think the clutch was dry and that is why it was difficult to shift and why I felt so much heat coming through the floor or firewall.

In my manual it shows a picture of where to fill and drain the clutch fluid. In the picture it shows a bolt that appears to hold a little metal cover to the side of the engine just about an inch or two above the solenoid on top of the starter motor just in front of the hole to the flywheel. On my engine just above the solenoid there is an indentation but no bolt. About 6 inches up on the side of the engine from the top of the solenoid and only 4 inches down from the bottom of the head is where this bolt is located. I am not sure if that is the correct bolt. Can anyone guide me? I don't know of a mechanic around here that is familiar with Hudson's so it is up to me to figure this out.

Any help will be appreciated.

Marvin
40 super six
NJ

nick s

for draining, the plug is accessed by removing the flywheel cover. for filling it it accessed though the window near the starter that views the flywheel (for checking timing). the plugs are on the flywheel so the engine must be turned over to the proper location - make sure the car is in neutral and blocked from moving and bump the solenoid or use the flywheel teeth to rotate the engine until the plugs are as necessary.

Uncle Josh

Actually, you don't have to remove the cover under the flywheel. Remove one of the plugs (there are 2 at 180 degrees) in the flywheel through said hole above the starter, and rotate until you see a star on the flywheel. The hole is down at that point and the fluid, if there is any left, will drain out through holes in the cover.

Then rotate until the hole is visible again for refilling. You need 6 oz of it, about 1/3 pint. Either buy the stuff from the club store, Dr Doug etc or make your own. Some people use straight tranny fluid. I mix up 1/3 tranny fluid, 1/3 marvel mystery oil, and 1/3 10W30 motor oil. Works for me.

Best thing I've found for removing and replacing that plug, is a 11/16 3/8 drive socket with a piece of masking tape so it will grip the plug, on a 4 or 6 in extension. A 1/2 drive will hit the side of the block and won't let it go on straight. Don't drop the plug, or it will wind up in the pan, and you'll have to go after it with a flexible gripper or remove the pan.

Now for adding fluid, get a piece of hose about a foot long, and grind a taper on the end to make a tight seal in the hole. Pour the fluid in slowly using a small funnel.

[Deleted User]

Another method for preventing the clutch fluid drain plug from falling into the flywheel pan is to stuff a rag into the flywheel opening just below the drain plug. The rag will catch the plug if it falls out of the drive socket (suggested by a 1950's Popular Mechanics article).

And don't forget to remove the rag after you've tightened the drain plug back into the flywheel!

lostmind

I had a shallow socket with a nut bonded into it , it left a lot of threads sticking out so you
could start the plug easily

PAULARGETYPE

WHAT WORKS FOR ME IS,I GOT A MAGNET THAT FITS IN TO THE SOCKET ( HARBOR FRIGHT ) IT WORKS GREAT AND I HAVE NEVER DROPT THE PLUG AGAIN I ALSO MADE UP A FUNNEL AND A SOME SMALL HOSE ALL MADE UP ALL THE TIME IT HANGS IN THE CORNER WHEN I NEED IT IT'S THERE

parkerm

Hello Guys,

Thanks for the input on how to drain or fill the clutch on the 40. I have been out all day so I am just now seeing your responses. I already got the fluid from Dr. Doug so now I only need to get the proper socket and extension, hose and funnel.

Nick s said to either bump the solenoid or use the teeth on the flywheel to turn the engine. How do I do that exactly?

I am guessing that the easiest way for me to do this is to jack up the car and put it on jack stands so I can try to access the flywheel from underneath. I don't think I will be able to see into the flywheel hole from above.

I will get the socket and extension as Uncle Josh suggests and I like the idea of the magnet in the socket to keep the bolt from falling. Like we do with belts and suspenders I will also put the rag in there just in case.

I really appreciate the help as I said before I am not a mechanic, but I want to keep the old car running so the work is up to me.

Thanks,

Marvin
40 super six
NJ

Jon B

If you have the original Hudson solenoid, you'll find a cylindrical, threaded cover on the back. Unscrew it. This reveals the remote starter button. With the ignition OFF, you can then "bump" the flywheel around by depressing the button intermittently, until either of the two hex plugs appears in the inspection hole. Don't forget to replace that screw cap; they are hard to come by!

If the hex plug drops, it's not the end of the world. Two bolts hold the flywheel cover on, and it will come off in a jiffy. It just slows things down a bit if you drop the plug.

Any auto parts store will have some sort of funnel or device for inserting the Hudsonite. Take a look next time you're out. I use a little plastic funnel to which a short length of plastic hose has been attached. The hose, of course, must be of small enough diameter to fit into the hole once you've removed the plug.

To summarize what's been said above:

1. Car in neutral, brakes on, ignition off. However, if you have a battery kill switch, this must to turned to ON. You need power to the starter.

2. Open hood and find inspection window on the driver's side of the engine (unless you're in England!).

3. Remove solenoid rear cap, tap button lightly so flywheel revolves until one of the two hex plugs appears in the inspection window next to the starter.

4. Place a small oil pan on garage floor directly under the inspection window, to catch the old Hudsonite you'll drain.

5. Unscrew & remove plug in flywheel, observing any of the excellent suggestions that have been made for NOT dropping the plug down into flywheel cover. Then, if you stuffed rags into the opening to catch the plug, be sure to remove the rags.

6. Tap solenoid button again, rotating flywheel, until the stamped "star" appears in the inspection hole. This indicates that the open hole (from which you just removed the plug) is at the 6 o'clock position, and the Hudsonite is draining out into the pan. Or onto the garage floor, if you forgot the pan.

7. After a minute or two, tap solenoid button again until the open hole again appears in the inspection window.

8. Insert 6 oz. of Hudsonite or other clutch fluid into the hole. If rags are to be inserted (to catch plug), insert them now. Replace plug in flywheel and tighten. Remove rags.

9. Job done. Replace solenoid cap.

Jon B

Your gear changing problem could come from other sources:

1. transmission oil too low.

2. problem in linkage. (Get under car and observe, as someone else tries to change the gears)

3. vertical lockout linkages on each side of the transmission, are not adjusted correctly. I believe one controls Reverse / First and the other controls Second / Third gears. When you push the clutch they must each move a specific distance in order to release the gears and allow them to change. It's easy to adjust, just a nut and lock nut for each one. Raise or lower the link until the gear slips in place easily. It's covered in the shop manual and I think there is one online at the H-E-T website.

parkerm

Jon B,

Thanks for the additional instructions very clear and understandable. I really appreciate the help all of you have offered.

Regards,

Marvin
40 Super six
NJ

parkerm

DocHubler,

My arms may be long enough, but I am not sure I can see into the flywheel hole from that angle. I will try it from above before I try putting the car on jack stands.

Thanks for you input.
Regards,

Marvin