1951 hudson commodor L6 262ci help please.

[Deleted User]

Im looking at a 51 hudson to buy its the 4 door model , it has 58xxx miles on her barn kept,not allot of rust i.e floor pans and frame. But it needs paint in the worst way. The wires are un molested and it is still 6v . What i really want to know is how much is that car worth (real world ). How much of a pain is it going to be to change what little electronic components it has to 12v neg - ground . What is the worst things every one came across on those cars to tackle . And what can i expect for problems. I know mice have been in the car but how bad i can't really tell. The tranny is a automatic. How bad or how good are they? I think there a 2 speed as well im not for shure . I really would love to say i own a hudson and i love the body lines of them. Can you guys help me out? Thank you so much!

Hudsonrules

This sounds like a big project. Has the current owner given an asking price and are they negotiable. When was the car last used as it sounds as though you will have to do a lot to get it roadworthy. The hydramatice transmission is a good one , but after sitting, you will need seals replace as well as checked out, problem is, it is becoming harder to find people who know and understand those transmisions. If mice have made it their home, you will need to go through the wiring and really clean the interior after it has been removed. The engine will involve removing the oil pan and cleaning it, put some light oil down each cylinder,and turn the engine over slowly a few times, once atarted, let it warm up. You will also have to go through the fuel system and cooling system. All that before painting the car. And the important one is a complete brake job. It may be easier and less exspensive to find a running and driving Hudson that you can enjoy for less than this one. Just some thoughts. Arnie in Nevada.

rambos_ride

I've bought 3 stepdowns...2 not running, 1 running.

If you can't hear it run or drive, even if everything else was "perfect" - I wouldn't pay more than 2500.00 for a non-running car. The cost to rebuild the engine/trans alone can easily squash your enthusiasm and budget.

The single biggest issue with these cars 1) RUST 2) misc Parts and Trim

RUST Floorpans are an easy fix - what I'm talking about is structural rust to the unibody system. Rear Perimeter frame rails, front xmember supports at the firewall, and the length of the rockers on the outer frame rail are the most common and expensive to fix.

Misc Parts and Trim
Depends on your goals but some of these Models have a boatload of stainless trim. Many of these peices can be difficult to find if you're planning on a restoration.

I look for complete trim, damaged can ususally be fixed. Finding the missing pieces sometimes painful and time consuming.

Same goes for interior knobs trim pieces. Finding good replacements can take time.

[Deleted User]

Oh wow thank you all so much for helping me out. I see that the whole picture looks grey for the poor old car but on a plus side i was able to put a wrench on the balancer and she was free. Prior to doin so i checked for water in the oil and gas. The guy who owns it said he tried to start it like 7 years ago or so and he couldn't get it to start. So i looked in to it . It wasnt stuck, nor tight spots in the engine as i turned it over at the crank so i think its starer issues. I tried looking at the points.... cap was stuck so i didnt want to break it by getting after it with a screwdriver i just left it be. I really thank each and every one of you for guiding me in the right direction.

Jon B

If a Hudson of this era interests you, you should shop around a bit. It seems as though you can often find a good example of the Step-Down (1948-54) Hudsons, in good running condition and looking very presentable, for $12,000 or less (way less, sometimes!).

That amount is what you might have to invest in a derelict Hudson in order to get it presentable. And that's not counting your time!

If this car is fairly rust-free, and you really like to tinker with cars, offer the guy a couple thousand for it and see what happens. But be darned sure you've checked out the body. The place to look for the serious rust, is up under the body, back in the vicinity of the wheel wells. There is a unit-body perimeter frame that actually runs OUTSIDE the rear wheels, and over the years a lot of dirt and salt can build up, rusting the frame out. However, this rustout is NOT inevitable, and there are a great number of Hudsons running around which have very solid original frames. Depends on how they were driven and garaged over the years. There are plenty of new, remanufactured engine components available nowadays, but it's very hard to find brand new body parts anymore!

So, check around on the prices, you may discover a Hudson you like even more, and in better condition, for a very affordable price. There is a good support network of Hudson owners out there, and the club (Hudson-Essex-Terraplane) is an excellent resource for finding tech. info. and parts. ( http://hetclub.org/ )

If you have any further questions, bring them here!

(P.S. -- why bother to change to 12 volts? I've been driving my Hudson on six, for the last 40 years, with no problems!)

[Deleted User]

I will look at that spot in the car . And yes i like to tinker and make things and see the end result i have restored a 1981 chevy 3/4 ton truck . And i loved to show it off because i did all the body and engine work and stuff like that. But regarding the 6v system. I would like to get windshild wipers that are not ran of engine vacuum .
The Slow cranking of 6v worrys me . And the generator i would put a simple 1 wire G.M altanator on for religious reasons :-) but i have seen in the form that by doing so the gas gauge reeds E to f not F to e . Unless there are methods to combat that . I really would just chang whats needed . But Frenching ,and i would shave the hood emblem and nose,and deck the hood. The car is so damn sad looking just sitting there i just see what i could do and i just dont want to be two deep in rust that cant be saved . But ill look at that part of the car and ill report the damage to you all and i thank each and every one of you for helping my ventures into the Hudson 6

[Deleted User]

That hood emblem is a functional air scoop , only Hudson ever made with one. Might want to leave that as it is . The gauges can be reworked to operate on 12- volts if a resistor is used and polarity is reversed. Although if the slow sound of a 6-volt Hudson cranking worries you its realy not an issue. Its going to start ,if it has trouble there's a problem . Changing to 12-volts only masks it. Granted I annoy a lot of other Hudson owners when I get in mine and hit the start button and if fires soon as it turns over. But that only proves my point , but its up to you . 12-volts does make more options for you as far as things like radio and A/C.
Roger

Jon B

Doesn't matter how slow the starter turns, as long as it starts. Mine has started for 40 years. You gotta keep the car in good condition, or 120 volts won't start it!

As to wipers, you can get a double-action fuel pump. I have something similar in my '37, an accessory vacuum pump that ran off the fanbelt, and the wipers barely slow down going up hills. But you can find an electric wiper if you look.

Also, there are actually alternators that are made to look like generators so you can have your cake and eat it too. (But here again, my generator has worked faithfully for 40 years...)

But-- hey! -- it'll be your car and you can do whatever you want, to it.

[Deleted User]

Gosh guys thank you for youre help thats a big help well i guess ill stick with 6 v then.. i was thinking if i did what i knew like the 6v system in a johndeer we changed it right over no problem. Easer stating on colder days and less worrys about the generator failing. Or that black box Going south . But ok thank you for youre advice its all more than welcome because its allwase better to know than to not know at all.

Jon B

Just be sure you have the proper gauge battery cables! Sometimes a previous owner has put 12-volt cables on the car, not realizing what he's doing. Also be sure all the battery connections are "bright and tight" and that you have good grounds. And of course you need a good battery. You can still get batteries that have 700 or more CCA, don't fool around with a weak battery just to save a few bucks. You can always switch over the 12 volts but make sure your 6v system is working properly before you throw in the towel and switch!

[Deleted User]

Sorry, maybe I missed it, but what part of the country are you in ? All these posts sound like good advice. Don't be in a rush to change to 12V. Get the car on its feet first....