Clutch plate replacement

parkerm

Guys,

I was suspicious that my clutch was slipping so I tested it by starting the engine holding down the brake and slowly releasing the clutch. The engine continued to run so I believe the clutch plate is worn out.

Question, is there way for me to test the pressure plate to know if it is in good shape or should be replaced? I also thought I should replace the throw-out bearing while I am doing this work. Should I also replace the u-joints since I will have this disconnected?

I was thinking I would disconnect the drive shaft and take out the transmission along with the clutch then remove the clutch. Is that the correct or recommended procedure?

I am the guy that keeps reminding you that I am not a mechanic, but I am trying to keep my old 40 super six running.

Thanks,

Marvin
1940 Super six
NJ

Geoff

Marvin, you have to remove the transmission and bell housing as a unit, then remove the clutch cover and plate. Not too big a job unless you have overdrive, which makes it much heavier to get in and out. It would probably pay you to get a workshop manual from the club library. Even though you are not a "mechanic" this gives you a pretty good description of how to do things. Trickiest part is getting the transmission back in. Good luck,
Geoff

parkerm

Geoff,

Thanks for the suggestion about the workshop manual and the encouragement. What do you suggest about testing the pressure plate and do you agree that I should replace the u-joints while I am taking this apart?

Regards,

Marvin

Geoff

I would only replace the u-joints if they appear worn, or have play in them. If the pressure plate is not grooved or worn, or obviously out-of-true, then you are probably fine. If the clutch was shuddering bad, then it could the pressure assembly, but otherwise I would give it a good clean out, a new gasket, and re-install it, together with a re-corked plate of course. The clutch specialists like Dr. Doug or Ron Fellowes will be able to give you more specific advice on this topic I'm sure. Again, a workshop manual outlines how to check the finger height of the assembly, but in my experience, if the plate is merely worn then replacing it usually works.

RL Chilton

Marvin-

Ditto what Ken said. It goes with the old adage, "Do it once, do it right." You and your Hudson will be glad you did it.

parkerm

Geoff, Ken & Russell thanks for all the information and advise. The total story is this: I had posted several days ago that I was having difficulty shifting as the transmission would grind going from 1st to 2nd and then to 3rd. I was also getting a lot of heat from the floor boards above where the clutch is located so I thought my clutch fluid was low. Jon B. and some others told me how to fill the clutch which I did successfully. The clutch was bone dry by the way so that is why it was getting so hot. The transmission shifted easier with fluid in the clutch but still has some grinding. The clutch never shuddered at all except a little when I would drive up my very steep driveway.

A friend came over and said to test the clutch I should put it in gear and with my foot on the brake slowly let the clutch out and see if the engine died. I did that test and no the engine did not die. That is how I came up with the idea that my clutch was worn out thinking the clutch plate was ver thin.

I appreciate all of your help,

Marvin
1940 super six
NJ

Geoff

It does get back to your gear-changing technique - you must shift real fast between gears, don't pause at all just straight through, and you will find it will slot straight in without crunching.

parkerm

Geoff you might be right about my shifting technique. A friend was riding with me and he said the same thing shift faster.

I will try shifting more quickly and see if the problem disappears. I will let you know how I make out.
Again thanks for your help.

Marvin

RL Chilton

Marvin-

The reason Geoff is recommending a different type of shifting on your part is because these old cars did not have what is referred to as synchronized transmissions, or ST's (which came later). ST's did not care when you slipped them into gear because it automatically lined the gears up upon meshing. Pre-ST's did not do that and you literally had to grind one gear up against another moving at a different rate until the teeth would line up, one gear would slow down, and then you jammed one gear into another. To prevent the grinding, one would do as Geoff said, by shifting faster, i.e., jamming it in there quick!

In some ways it was an art form, along with knowing your car, you could shift with the greatest of ease if your timing for that particular car was good. Another trick was to double-clutch it at the moment of the "mesh". It would often slow one gear down enough to make the mesh easier.

For comparison sake, I tell people that you had to drive these cars, not "get in and steer" like folks do with modern cars.

I'm glad you got it figured out about the clutch fluid. I still think it's time for the overhaul. If you haven't clutched your car before with a new clutch, you are in for a real treat. No other clutch operates the way a properly-tuned Hudson clutch does.

parkerm

Russell,

I think you are correct it is time to overhaul the clutch due to the test I did of holding the brake and slowly letting out the clutch. I can't wait to drive the car with a new clutch.

Geoff could be right though my touch just might be off so i will try to improve my technique.

All-the-best,

Marvin

Huddy42

If you are going to fit a recorked clutch plate, I would definately have the pressure plate rebuilt as well, the fingers tips should be nice and round and the setting height of these fingers is critical , you can't judge how good the pressure plate is by just looking at it, the thickness of the gasket between the pressure plate and the flywheel is also critical.

Dr Doug is the best guy to overhaul both the clutch plate and the pressure plate and supply all the seals and gaskets you will need to do the job.

When refitting the gearbox to the motor a good idea is to get two long bolts cut the heads off them and screw them into the two top holes of the block, this allows you to slide the gearbox in straight, when the box is back in place remove the two long bolts and use the bolts that you removed when pulliing it down ,if you don't do it this way you have a 75% chance of damaging the throw out seal, end result leaking clutch fluid and having to pull it all out and replace the seal.

Do it once and do it right.

parkerm

Huddy42,

I agree with what you are saying it seems like good advice. I appreciate everyone helping me out on this.

Marvin
1940 super six
NJ