Stepdown Radiators

[Deleted User]

Is there much of a differance between stepdown radiators that have a rounded top surface versus ones that have more of a flat top surface?

The apparently original flat top radiator on my '53 Super Wasp had a leak on the upper front surface where the inlet tube is located not to mention fin damage where at one time the fan must have struck the inner radiator fins (engine mount opposite the damaged fins was replaced with a new AMC one). The replacement has no fin damage or inlet tube leaks and is the type with the rounded top surface (it was also just inspected at a local radiator shop and had some minor leak issues which were repaired).

My main concern is whether or not these two types of radiators are interchangable. It appears all the fittings are the same and should match up once I put the spare in the radiator slot on my Super Wasp, but just want to know if there are any things to look out for. Thanks for any help here!

Dan

[Deleted User]

As a rule the flat top radiators were used from 1948 up to 1951. Some may have been used in 1952 but likely they were left overs. The 52-54 radiators were the round top type. All will interchange but watch out for the cooling capability of the 232 radiator as it is not as good as the 262,254,308 radiator. McCord produced them for Hudson and on the i.d. tag there is generally a number embosed on the tag which should give you a good idea of the year it was made.

[Deleted User]

So apparently, I had the wrong radiator (flat top) in my 53 Super Wasp. How can you tell if a radiator is for a 232 instead of a 262, etc., as they all seem to have the same coolant capacity unless a heater is involved?

[Deleted User]

It has a reduced capacity to cool a smaller engine. A heater is not involved. Plainly put there's less radiator when used in a 232 vs. 308 requirements. It will still cool a 308 but not as effectively.Likely it will tend to run hot.

Hudson Grandpa

Lance, I had a 3 core roundtop in my 54 Hornet w/old engine. Ran very hot. New engine I added a rad fan, to run at stoplights. Did the job. Rad finally went south, and got lucky and found a rad from a parts car, but now 4 core roundtop with no rad fan. AT 100 degrees here in Texas I can idle for 5-10 mintues and the temp gauge will hit 1/2, of course if that is true. But I have a light to measure the rad and engine, and it is pretty true. 190-220. If the gentleman has a 3 core rad take it to the rad people and make it a 4 core. Yes it's expensive, but your worries are over....I got lucky, and I didn't know it...

RL Chilton

Hudson Grandpa-

That's way too hot for a Hudson!! Are you aiming your gun around the top of the block where your temp sending unit is located? If so, you need to be around 160-170 max. Best with a 165-degree thermostat. Marks on the gauge are: 1/4= 140, 1/2=160, 3/4=180, H=200. 1/2-3/4 is o.k., at H, shut it off!

Modern cars run (and are designed to run) around or even above the boiling mark, Hudsons are not.

[Deleted User]

I still have no idea on how to tell a 232 radiator, as mentioned by Hudzilla, from one that's to be used for a 254, 262 or 308. The radiator I used today, Sunday, Aug. 24, to replace the damaged one on my '53 Super Wasp is a McCord 53A. No mention on the radiator on whether it's to be used for a 232 or any other Hudson engine.

I referred to my '53 Hudson Owner Manual and it mentions on page 39 under capacities that the cooling system takes 18-1/2 quarts or 19-1/2 quarts with a heater. No mention of different coolant capacities for different engines. This is also the same in the 52 Mechanical Procedures manual.

What am I missing here?!! Nobody seems to know! Again, thanks for any help here,

Dan