Tappet Adjustment

Henk_Brough

This was for me always a hell of a job. First you must find the correct valve to adjust, corresponding with another valve just opens. On….. and ….on.
I made a very simple tool. From the protecting cardboard box from my new washing machine
I made a disk with 0º, 120º, 220°. This is for a 6 cylinder.
For an eight 0º,90°,180°,270°.
( see photo’s )
I made a hole in the middle the same diameter as the crank handle.
To fix it on the crank handle cut with a pair of scissors from the outside to the middle.
Set the engine with the crank handle in Top Death Centre ( TDC )
Now is the nr. 1 cylinder or the nr. 6 cylinder is on top of the compression stroke.
You can feel that very easy : there is a little play on the tappets. Adjust that cylinder.
With two little strips of duct tape fix the circle on the bumper so the crank handle is in line with the 0º line. The crank handle must be correct pressed against the big nut on the crank shaft.
Mine was coincidence perfect downside as on the photo.
Now turn the engine to the 120º line. Again you can feel very easy with of the other cylinders is on top of the compression stroke. Adjust ! Turn to 240º and find the cylinder on the compression stroke. Adjust ! And so on.
For next time I keep the card board as one of my most welcome tools.
My 212 engine from 1937 has now the valves from Dale Cooper ( good stuff Dale !!)
With a diameter from 9.1 mm. the same as the 1946 212 originally has.
Tappet clearance 0.010” inlet and 0.012” exhaust. For cold adjustment 0.001“ extra.
I did 0.012” inlet and 0,013”ex.
In Holland we say “you can better hear them than pay them”
Please , an advise ???

Geoff

Very practical Henk, and good on you for sharing this. I would disagree however about being able to hear the tappets. If you can hear them they are too wide, and this affects performance and reliability.
Geoff

ArkieJazz

But too tight and quiet and you burn them up