Head gasket keeps "blowing"
I have changed the head gasket on my 262 ci engine three times over the past 14 years. It's starting to look like it's getting ready to happen again. A dark liquid resembling molasses is starting to seep out below the head. I torqued the front head bolts and it stopped at that location, only to now began again in another place. I think I need to have the head shaved (not the correct term) as the head must be slightly warped. Any suggestions as to how and where to get that done in NC will be appreciated.
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FYI
Before you pull off the head try K&W Block Seal by CRC Industries. If you had the problem repetitively, your head may need resurfaced, but first try K&W Sealer following their instructions. Ive used it for Yrs with great permanent results for seepage you describe...0 -
Where can you get it?0
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The following links shows how to use and multiple places to obtain:
https://google.com/search?q=K%26W+Block+Seal+by+CRC+Industries&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a0 -
I buy K&W Block & Gasket Seal at Advance Auto. Ive used other Brands over the Yrs but K&W works best.....0
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Ditto !0
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The '50 Pacemaker I now have has one head bolt that kept coming lose over time and causing overheating. After removing the head to check the gasket, I cleaned all the bolt holes with a wire brush, tap and cleaner. I used grade 8 bolts and washers when I reinstalled the head. That one bolt hole must be a bit off because it did not hold torque very long after the cold/hot torque process. So I used a little blue thread lock on it. Holding fantastic now and no over heating.
So, if you do take the head off, check your bolt holes to see if they are coming a little loose and allowing the seepage.
Just a thought. It is clear that others have had similar issues to yours and have shared their solutions.0 -
What psi rad cap do you have on it??0
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I put an aluminum radiator in the car and now have a billet radiator cap. I think it has a 12 to 14 lb. limit.0
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FYI
Ive never gone above 7Lbs on any of my radiators, even when Intalled an aluminum radiator in my modified.. They make a closed System 7lb cap...Never needed higher Pressure... May be a reason your head seeps like paulrhd29nc asked......0 -
Yup.. get rid of that cap and put a 7lb on it. At the nats. this year I listend in on Walt giving a guy a severe tongue lashing on haveing the wrong cap on his 262 with an new rad. After Walt scooted away I looked at the guy and said "budy, I think you have just been told !"
Remember that Sid?0 -
The user and all related content has been deleted.0
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Yes I do, email me at hetpaulhamsonconstruction@hotmail.com drop the het. and I will send some photo's.0
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What kind of tongue lashing did Walt give you, Sid? I'm having trouble finding a 7 lb. billet cap for my aluminum radiator as stem on the old 7 lb. cap is longer than the one on the 16 lb. cap and will not got down far enough to tighten down. Are you guys sure that the 16 lb. cap is part of my problem?0
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ABSOLUTELY a big contributor to seeping; I use a Closed System 7Lb Cap on my Aluminum Racing Radiator, but its not a billet cap. Usually its the higher pressure cap thats harder to install....0
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Where did you get it? What does it look like?
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We also use a 7# cap,with a coolant recovery tank. they seem to work well! Also,when you have done the head gasket in the past, have you polished the holes out with a brush in the drill?. This cleans the threads good, then make sure you seal them back in. retorque head 2 times within the first 15 minutes of first run after cylinder head install. 2-3 more times within the first 500 miles doesn't hurt a thing either. We still use aluminum 500 deg.spray paint on the head gaskets,with great success. Paint them several times letting it dry in between coats. Hope this helps.0
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My 7lb closed system radiator caps have no number on them. I bought them at a small local Auto Store. I will be there again in a day or so and ill get the number. Strange have a fitament ptoblem because mine fit 3 different radiators....0
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I believe the older model Hudsons ran zero pressure systems. We run 0 pressure on the 49 with the 308. Have not had any problems of overheating or leakage. L Hud0
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If you're looking for the correct 7-lb radiator cap, the key is the depth of the fill pipe. The radiator in our '54 Hornet has a 1" deep pipe so I run a Standt 10206. Some Hornets have a radiator with a 3/4" deep pipe that would use a Standt 10228. Both are available through Summit Racing or Rock Auto.
Tim in WI.0 -
I got a 7 lb. radiator cap from NAPA that fits. The depth of the fill pipe on the new aluminum radiator is 3/4 inch and the depth of the fill pipe on the old radiator was one inch. The head was slightly warped so it is being machined. Thanks for the help.0
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