Engine fit

Unknown
edited November -1 in Street Rods
I thought I would ask those of you who have done it before but when I go to put my smc how do you contend with the fact that the deep part of the oil pan is at the front of the engine whereas the stock 6 had the deep part at the rear? I was wondering if the oil pan can be swotched around or does that create problems with the oil pump?

Comments

  • Yes I did mean sbc... 'typo'..oops. I was just reading the thread on the dummy engine and tranny and it sure would be an aide to getting the correct fit. But in a real world I'll just lower it with my a frame and hoist enough times to get a good fit. I do have an adjuster to change the angle of the dangle so to speak and it works very nice. Took the engine and tranny out of my car my self very easily.
  • Morosso makes an oilpan that will allow you to clear your tie-rods. You won't have to alter the steering link, but you might have to lower your original crossmember. to allow for removal of the transmission pan. I put an oversized pan on my tranny, so I had to lower my crossmember 2and 3/4in. I've got the Chevy motor, 700R4 tranny, and "Currie" 9in Ford. Here's a few pictures. If you want more, just let me know. I went by a salvage yard and got a motor (for free) that was bad. I then took all the internal parts out so it would be lighter. I used that "dummy" motor to find out where the motor had to sit. The Morosso oilpan had the dipstick on the drivers side, so I made sure my "dummy" motor had the same.
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    Jim,

    I know this is not a Hudson but heres another way to get a mockup inexpensively (FREE). My local machine shop loaned me a cracked sbc block. Since it was no use to them they said I could bring it back or just keep it. It was already cleaned so I didn't have to deal with all the oil and dirt buildup on it. Also, you will notice I am using the adjustable hoist that I picked up at Harbor Freight.
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