1953-308, an oil filter to select: FULL FLOW vs BYPASS and the differences

[Deleted User]

Looking to add used Hudson factory original oil filtering system on this engine being restored; I prefer FULL-FLOW filtering system.

Noticed parts house offers full flow or bypass to select from, as follows:

FRAM Part # C3 Cartridge full flow; Includes Gasket With standard media
$5.31

FRAM Part # C3P Cartridge bypass; Includes Gasket; "P" version is stacked disc media
$8.38

Is there a difference in the plumbing arrangement or Hudson canisters for the 2 options?

Wondering why they offer 2 types?

I'd like to modify the oil galley, if a feasible option, to achieve FULL FLOW thru a FRAM C3 filter.

If someone has done a conversion to FULL FLOW and has details to furnish, plus some photos to illustrate, much obliged.

Nevada Hudson

Talk to Walt.

Ol racer

FYI
There have been guys that made a nice full flow filtering system then posted all the pictures on the older Classiccar Forum but they wont come up now on this Site.

Goggle 308 oiling modifications then you will see pictures on how they did the Ez Mods for full flow....

[Deleted User]

Thanks, Ol racer; a REAL gentleman !

[Deleted User]

http://www.classiccar.com/forum/discussion/162941/

[Deleted User]

Maybe Walt will be kind enough to post a photo of his oil filtering kit on this thread; here's thanking you in advance, Walt !

[Deleted User]

Any one know the correct procedure to dis-function the normal operation of the bypass; just dawned on me -

1) maybe a stronger spring or add a few washers to stiffen the pressure so the bypass becomes 100% oil blocker;

2) then use a spin-on/off filter bracket & locate in the original Hudson 308 location;

3) plumb from the port below bypass to the IN port of the filter bracket;

4) plumb from the OUT port of the filter bracket into the port above the bypass

I'm having a vision of it now - will make it happen . Walt is right again ! cooler/clean oil

thesopsax

http://www.vintagefullflow.com/contact.html Not yet on the market, but worth
checking out.

[Deleted User]

My oil filter kit does the job of a full by pass kit. I use a Fram filter that is used on Fords and it filters all oil that goes by the by pass and helps to cool the oil 10 degrees. I drive my car 500 miles a day and make CT in 6 days, total 3,300 miles and my oil pressure stays a 38 pounds, which is what Hudson listed, and 20 lbs at idle. Have 142,000 miles on the engine and my oil is still clean when I change it. I drive my car up to 90 MPH and any one in the Nor-Cal Chapter will tell you that, 11 trips cross country. E-mail me if you want a picture. Walt.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

To m6ride:
I admire your enthusiasm, but.....Don't try what you described!
First, altering the original Hudson pressure regulator to function as a "100% blocker" will cause an uncontrollable rise in system pressure and will result in damage somewhere.....sheared pump drive gear or pin or whatever. There must be regulation somewhere in the system.
The port on top of the regulator boss is occluded, by design, at pressures below about 20psi (a notable figure), so there is no passage there for oil to reach the filter under those operating conditions. This feature is necessary to prevent pressure loss at low speeds, down where max flow is needed to maintain the highest possible pressure at low pump output flows . That port becomes uncovered as the pressure rises above 20, pushing the plunger past the port and allowing flow through the metered orifice in the bypass filter canister. As pressure continues to rise with increasing engine speed, the regulator plunger moves against the spring until it begins to expose the exhaust, or "blow-off" port. This is the point where design operating pressure is reached. Oil volume surplus to the needs of the system is exhausted back into the reservoir through this port and down the vertical passage ending just above the pan flange. The port below the regulator boss is simply a return from the original bypass type filter. It intersects that vertical passage leading from the regulator bore exhaust port to the discharge point in the crankcase. Plumbing anything into that port simply exhausts it back into the pan. There is no path to the gallery from there.
Not to mention......those are 1/8th NPT fittings that do not have sufficient cross-sectional areas to pass the flows necessary to lubricate that engine even if the above wasn't true.
The only way a true full-flow filtration system can be employed is to segregate the regulated/utilized flow from the gross pump output and direct that flow through an appropriate filter before it is introduced into the oil gallery.
The high-flow bypass set-up Walt offers is a distinct improvement over the original, antiquated bypass design. The automakers didn't utilize such a set-up 'cause the high flow filter elements just didn't exist in those days (with a few exceptions). Using a full flow element doesn't make it a full-flow system, though......but it is a high flow bypass filter.
Sorry to pop your bubble.....but it's better than hearing that you'd lunched an engine.

Frank