Oil Leak
Hannah has an oil leak. Based on how much she used on my 245 mile trip and where the drops are on the floor - she needs a rear main seal.
So, what does that all entail?
1) pull engine & Tranny
2) separate engine from tranny
3) mount engine to stand
4) turn engine bottom up
5) remove oil pan, timing cover & chain
6) remove rod caps from crank
7) remove main caps from crank
8) remove crank and seals from front & back
9) replace front & rear main seals
10) install new crank bearings
11) install rod bearings
12) install new pan gasket
13) put oil pan, timing chain and cover back on
14) turn engine back right-side up
15) reattach tranny
16) reinstall engine & tranny
I know some smaller detail or sub steps are left out but did I forget anything major?
Should I take the time while engine is out to do more before I put it back in?
So, what does that all entail?
1) pull engine & Tranny
2) separate engine from tranny
3) mount engine to stand
4) turn engine bottom up
5) remove oil pan, timing cover & chain
6) remove rod caps from crank
7) remove main caps from crank
8) remove crank and seals from front & back
9) replace front & rear main seals
10) install new crank bearings
11) install rod bearings
12) install new pan gasket
13) put oil pan, timing chain and cover back on
14) turn engine back right-side up
15) reattach tranny
16) reinstall engine & tranny
I know some smaller detail or sub steps are left out but did I forget anything major?
Should I take the time while engine is out to do more before I put it back in?
0
Comments
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OR JUST BUY A NEW NEOPREAM REAR MAIN SEAL AND DROP THE PAN WITH THE ENGINE STILL IN THE CAR YOU WILL HAVE TO DROP THE CENTER POINT STEERING AND REMOVE THE TOP NUTS OFF THE FRONT ENGINE MOUNTS PUT A BUT A 2 X 4 UNDER THEM SO THE ENGINE SITS A LITTLE HIGHER RAFTER PAN REMOVEL DROP REAR MAIN REMOVE ALL OF THE OLD SEAL FROM THE HOLE WHERE THE OLD ONE WAS INSTALL NEW SEAL INSTALL NEW PAN GASKET
I TOO THOUGHT I HAD A REAR MAIN LEAKING AFTER A GOOD CHECK FOR WERE THE OIL WAS LEAKING FROM I HAD A OIL PREASURE SENDING UNIT GO BAD IT WAS LEAKING BAD!!! I CHANGED IT OUT AND WALA NO MORE OIL LEAK SO CHECK BEFORE YOU TEAR EVERY THING APART0 -
WOW! REALLY?? I thought the seal had to all the way around the crank, and thus, the crank had to be pulled completely from the block.
This has made my day!
Now, from whom in the club do I purchase this new seal?0 -
When you see the crud in the pan, you'll be glad you had to remove it even though it's a pain to do so. The "book" says to drop the front suspension (I assume Pacemaker is the same) but I'd go for Paul's method first, but there are details there to watch for as well, like radiator hoses, exhaust pipe etc. that might not like being pushed that far.
Extracting the old upper seal half can be a chore and you want to be careful not to scratch the seal surface on the crank. You don't want it to just eat up the new one.
It's not a quick 'n easy job, but it is doable.
Check with Dale Cooper for the seal, either the original rope type of the neoprene version. I have no experience with the new neoprene seal, so I can't make a recommendation. If it works well, it would sure be easier to install.
F
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You might want to Check that typo.......
F0 -
If you have the Nov-Dec WTN and go to page 45 and read Walt's way to do the job. Walt.0
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Thanks, All. I have had the pan off before - when I first got her - to clean out the old grime. So I am familiar with the process.
Walt: Nov-Dec WTN from what year?
I am just so glad I do not have to disassemble the engine.0 -
"Walt's way" regarding the rear main neoprene seal can be read in the latest WTN (Volume 55, Number 2, November/December 2013).0
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I read the article last night. I can do that.
I am still confused as to why the seal is not one large o-ring?
Winter project, here I come.0 -
Please check your side valve cover gaskets before you do this. When they leak
the oil runs to the bottom of the bell housing.
You probably have a rear main leak , but it's a lot of work if unnecessary.0 -
Also check the cork seal that seals the distributor . I tried a rubber o ring but it wouldn't
seal.I found the corect cork seal then no leak. I am courious as to how the Dodge 318 neoprine rear main seal is working. I rebuilt our Hornet 308 engine about 6 years ago and found this seal fit like a glove.I posted several posts as to using this seal. And it is new and improved. Thanks for finding this seal Ray Ray0 -
DUCAN I SELL THE DODGE SEAL IN MY FLEA MARKET PARTS IT WORKS GREAT I HAVE HAD ON IN MY PACEMAKER FOR 10 YEARS WITH OUT ANY PROBLEMS0
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To bad the Lucas stop leak doesn't work.0
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I tried the Lucas stop leak. Didn't slow the leak. Maybe it doesn't work on rope seal. The neopream seal stoped the oil leak on my 308 engine. Not a drop.
Lee O'Dell0 -
AS FOR THE MOPAR SEALS I LIKE THEM THE TABS JUST CUT RIGHT OFF AND FIT RIGHT I9MUSE SOME RTV JUST A FEW TABS OF ITBEFORE I PUT THE UPPER HALF IN THE UPPER HOLE AND A FEW MORE ON THE CAP BEFORE I PLACE THE NEW SEAL IN AND THERE ONLY ABOUT $17 COMPAIRED TO THE $40+ THE ONE DALE COOPER SELLS0
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FYI
Like the other Post's above be sure to clean off the Block good to be certain the leak is coming from the rear seal.....Oil leaks on the side or front will always run to the Rear....
Ive used the 318 Mopar Seal a few times now and like it for the cost..... The Tabs can be cut flush with sissors. I put a little 'Dab' of Permatex Black RTV at the ends of seal.. Do not use a new Rope seal...
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So, having never seen the back end of the main crank for my 232, I ask: ...
Why is the seal in two parts when installing in a disassembled engine? Why is the new neoprene seal NOT an O-ring that goes around the crank and fits into the grooves that are part of the caps?0 -
Because it would not stretch over the flywheel flange.0
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One piece rear main seals did not get used much until the mid eighties, nearly all main seals were of the two piece design before. Geoff has the best reason for that. Also when doing the rear main seal in the car loosen the other main bearing caps which will allow the crankshaft to drop slightly allowing easier replacement. Done a bunch of them this way over my years as an auto mechanic. Yes the Mopar seal is the way to go. Also lubricate new seal to help it lide into the groove.
Jm Spencer
WNY Chapter0 -
I see that people are stating from my article in the Nov-Dec WTN 2013. My seal has been in for 100,000 miles and still no leaks. Make sure you use a 10-40 oil as it never dries out and ruin the seal. Straight 10-20 or 30 dries out and motor turn a few rev's before oil get there and that is what ruins the rope seal. Walt.0
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