2BBL carb mystery

Uncle Josh

Of course, there are other ways to prime your carb.

You could rig up a fuel line from an outboard with a squeeze bulb in it..or
You could fasten a small tank on the roof..or under the cowl like a model A, and run a rubber hose clamped off with a clothes pin, or a solonoid valve,
Or you could pressurize the gas tank with an air pump, puffy cheeks or some other source of air, and possibly blow yourself to kingdom come.

I just keep a little plastic bottle with gas in it and give the carb a squirt if it's set for more than a few days.

RL Chilton

I like Uncle Josh's puffy cheek method, personally. In the end though, that's why I installed an electric pump. Like he said, after three days, I just hit the toggle switch under the dash, let it prime the carbs for about 20-30 seconds. Hit the starter and away she goes. I'm currently putting the same set-up on the convertible. Along with the return line, vapor issues and hard starting are a thing of the past.

I hate today's gas. (

ernie28

I had similar issues when the car was not used for a week or more. Bought one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-volt-Fuel-Pump-Nash-Hudson-1949-1950-1951-1952-1953-can-be-assist-or-primary-/331114524620?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d17f6afcc&vxp=mtr and plumbed in before the mechanical pump. A push button under the dash and works very well to prime only. We went away last week on a trip, did 600+ miles and only needed to prime before we left. Ideal in my opinion.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

But....such a procedure in a "splashie" will gain you nothing and it's my opinion that it doesn't really do any good in a pressure lubed engine either. If it makes you feel better, then go for it but the notion that oil all drains off of mains and rod bearings while sitting is questionable....to me. A few seconds without pressure will never make a measureable difference in engine life IMO since a film of oil is still present at start-up.

Example: these photos are of a 212 that had been left out somewhere on the back forty in Idaho for many years. It had obviously seen numerous freeze/thaw cycles in its time. The cylinders had filled with water, frozen and pushed gaping holes through the walls of several.
Disassembly was a challenge, to say the least....but there's always something usable in there somewhere.
Upon removing the rod and main caps, I was surprised to see the amount of oil, really old oil, that remained in them. Note the piece of pin (presumably from a sheared distributor drive gear) lodged in the rear main oil hole and the chunk of crud in the frt. main oil hole. But.....there's still oil on 'em!! (I wiped the rear one to get a look at that pin) Hard to believe that these are pics of the same engine when you compare the top view and the crankcase view.
For sale: '46 Hudson S-6 engine block. Make offer.
Frank

SuperDave

Uncle Josh.
The only fuel feed problem I had with my Model A ford was forgetting to shut the manual fuel valve off ! gravity feed. drip, evaporate, drip, evaporate. It can use a lot of gas just sitting.. .. It's a late 31 and then
valve is under the hood, not inside under the tank, like 28 early 31.. I solved it by installing an electric solenoid. Valve only opens when the key is on. But never have to worry about fuel m
pumps and vapor locks!
Frank,
I have to agree with you on the splashers. , but boy if the rods are already loose...! I have heard many small, block fords (289-302) That rattle badly for a second or two until they get some oil pressure. I never had a rod bearing fail in the ones I had, but cringed a few times on cold mornings. Simple insert replacement fixed 'em.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

But, to remain on-point, would they have not rattled at start-up if the engine had been cranked with ignition "off" for a few seconds? We'll probably never know.
How did I get from fuel evap to sloppy rods? The magic of discussion forums.
F