Need Stepdown rear end measurements
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38".0
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Thanks. I'm off to take a look at an 8" out of a Maverick. The WMS is within 1/4", same lug pattern. It's a spring under too, maybe I'll be fortunate.0
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What's the point? What's wrong with the Hudson parts?0
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I agree with Ken. I have a Dana 44 under my '51, and am running 3.73 gears. Perfect ratio with OD.0
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I did this too. Even though my '52 is a 1st series car and had the early rear end originally, I opted for the later, 2nd Series Dana. More options and easier repairability later if I need it. Best of all, didn't have to mess with the un-obtanium 25877T (tapered) bearings.0
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Well, there are a couple of thing I don't care for about the Hudson rear end.
1. The press fit keyed hubs. Pass.
2. No disc brakes. I want 4 wheel discs.
3. As mentioned, Parts are made of weapons grade Balonium. Just went through that on an HO72 for my brother.
I have 3 rear ends, none of which are the d44 and all of which are forest finds and need total refurbishment. The D44 would be nice, but I'd have to ship one in (forum purchase, eBay etc.) 8" parts are available anywhere, and I can get ratios, brakes, diffs and axleshafts in any flavour I want.
I'm a fan of drop out 3rd members. My cars all have the 3 speed direct but I'm not even sure I'm going to run that. I'd like to run an M22 for the wailing gears. Dad has one in his Z/28 and it makes me feel like a kid to hear that. Some breed of Tremec also crossed my mind too. But since I don't have either, I guess whatever comes along cheapest.0 -
There is a writeup on putting disk on the D44, but it looks like quite a task when 9" and 8.8" can be found locally for a few hundred bucks equipped with disks already. That said, I have a D44 I'm holding on to for a rainy day, it will go in the Pacemaker if that rear ever goes out.0
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segajeep, if you have three pre-Danas, be sure to salvage the axle shafts with those unobtanium bearings. They're great flea market pieces. (If one wants to have an emergency axle bearing, it's best to have it on an axle . . . hydraulic presses are hard to find at the side of the road!)0
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I have a spare axle shaft with bearing. I carried in my 49 as a spare on long trips.
If someone needs it , it's $50 plus shipping. Send a PM if you need it.0 -
I'll have a look. I have to salvage the spring perches off of one of the axles, so I'll be having a close look at them. I was at the cars today brainstorming how I want to tackle the build. Front Suspension looks really easy to drop out and reman. The crossmember looks like it's bolted to the front frame clip and the upper arms have a few bolts holding them down. Once I get the suspension and power train out of my good body, I'll be able to mount it on the rotisserie.
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Some say the 25877-T is made of Unobtainium, but I believe it's actually a Steel/Cash Alloy.
I have 12 New and a few good used but I've found that few are willing to pay for them (actually, none). I don't want to give up all of them but I'd part with a few. I guess it's easier/cheaper to just change rear ends and I can't argue with the flexibility (in terms of ratio choices) reliability and serviceability of a common axle. Correctness has it's place but can really cause some grief/$ if you're on a road trip.
For some reason, Hudson used a smaller version of that bearing (15125-T, I believe) in the Jets for both years. A D28 axIe like Jeep I think? Anyway, I found it interesting that they switched from the H built w/tapered bore, to the Spicer built in the regular line cars but stayed with a tapered-bore bearing in the Jet.
Theory: Possibly the contracts to purchase rear axles for the Jet had been executed before they decided to make a change so they were stuck with it.
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Frank, Did mean STEAL/Cash ? )0
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Well, I can tell you for sure that I didn't steal them.
Back when I was looking for some, prices ran as high as $1206 each. Needless to say, that's not where I got them.
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Correctness isn't the name of my game here, I have 4 door pacemakers an they're in rough shape. Probably better off as parts cars but I have no qualms about mix and matching parts. It also forces me to keep costs down. Doubt I'm even going to do bodywork. The frame and floors are going to be like new. I'll start from scratch with the electronics. Fresh suspension and brakes.The finished product will be 100% safe and super drivable, but look like it did when I pulled the car out of the field.
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I'll agree that sometimes It doesn't matter much how close or far away from "correct" it is. Make it reliable and safe, make the best you can of it and just drive it.
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