dash painting

snowshoe90aolcom

I'm at a point where I have to decide whether to paint my '51 Hornet dash a solid color or try to make an attempt to replicate the burlwood look. I've checked with a fellow in the HET directory who does this, but he said he no longer ships and the costs are beyond my means. I also checked into water transfer and the costs are somewhat lower if I clearcoat and buff myself, but I would have to make two 300 mile round trips for delivery and pickup. I've seen "woodgraining kits" for sale but have never done anything like this at all and would be a little apprehensive about trying. Any recommendations would be helpful and if I decided to go a solid color, what would be a good match for a brown interior (that someone has already done) Thanks Terry

Browniepetersen

Terry, If you practice a bit you can do it yourself. The key is to be patient and not to be afraid to try. I did my 52 using some waxed paper and then cut a 4 X 4 inch of cloth from the seats and glued it to a block of wood to use as a stamp. I took an old fender and cleaned it up to use for practice. Helps with knowing how to work around the curves. I wrote an article on woodgraining and if you would like a copy drop me an email (droptheHET) hetbrowniepetersen@readytek.net

RL Chilton

Terry-

I do this as well. Cost for a sedan is in the $1750 range, for example. This is for the old-style ink-transfer-roll-on style that was popularized first in the 20's and was done up until pre-war on most American marques. It is labor intensive, and materials are costly. It is the very best finish you utilize.

Other methods are the water transfer, which always look fakey to me, but might be better with a good quality clearcoat applied to them.

If you go with the '53 style of painting the wood-graining parts, the typical practice is paint it body-color. However, a dark brown on a brown interior is a plausible option.

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Park_W

Bill Gratkowsky in PA did my '51 conv. dash exactly as original for about $500, Matched the original panels on the doors very well.

snowshoe90aolcom

I have to have all the interior trim done...it had gotten to the point of flaking off all over (sun damage?) and you could not tell what kind of paint had ever been there. I've bead blasted and epoxied the bare metal but left the backside orange color for reference in case I do try this myself.( It must have been a base coat) I don't have a bodyshop so I use(rent) space and time in a shop so practicing will tend to add up. It's too cold here to do anything in my garage. $1500 and up seems to be the magical "low" number for painting and water transfer. I've also looked at 3M Di-noc but that stuff looks really fake. I'll check out classicwoodgraining but that's a long way from Duluth, MN. All ideas are welcome Terry

PAULARGETYPE

I TOO LIKE PARK I HAD Bill Gratkowsky in PA DO my '5O conv. dash exactly as original for about $500 HE DOES GREAT WORK HE HAS DONE A NUMBER OF DASHS FOR THE GUYS HERE IN THE PITTSBURGH,PA. AREA HIS WORK IS 2ND TO NONE HE'S IN THE AACA MAGAZINE

Park_W

And Hemmings.

snowshoe90aolcom

Thanks. I've got the latest Hemmings magazine, I'll give him a call and see what he says.

Geoff

I have done a number of '28-'29 Hudson dash panels, and a '35 Studebaker, using a tan coloured flat acrylic base coat, stipple acrylic stain over this, and then sand lightly and coat with clear polyurethane. Can supply photos if anyone interested.

Kdancy

Terry, one of the main points to me for liking the earlier 51-2 Hornets over the 53 is the leather grain pattern dash and interior parts. I think it takes a lot away from the car to paint it a solid color.

Walt-LA

Snowshoe90aolcom

It is a difficult decision to go with the ’53 style dash painting on the ’51 dash, but when cost is a consideration… sometimes we have to adjust. In the case here, the original dash was removed from the car and “shot” with a meter to get an “average” color value which was applied to the dash to be installed. For reason’s unknown, the original dash in my ’51 is darker than any of the reproduced leather grained dashes I’ve seen at National meets, so I set it aside and used another obtained from Ken A. as a $30.00 option. It and the door panels were then sprayed at an additional cost of $40.00 after the paint purchased and having been separately prepped.

The body had been painted a light tan by the previous owner, but as noted in an earlier post – brown goes well with a brown interior. Color is probably better reflected (pun not intended) in the shot of the door, as the dash just has too much chrome to get much but reflection...

At any rate, I have the original dash which can be painted in leather grain when the time comes to replace a high reading temp gauge. Door panels are no problem…

Seeing a bit of the white here today, at least ¼ in thick!

WaltLA

snowshoe90aolcom

First, it's nice to see pictures of restored dashes for comparison - they all look very nice. second, I've been referring to the dash as "burl wood" not leather grain so once again I've learned something. I borrowed a paint sample hand card from the local Dupont dealer and matched the color (as close as possible) to the hand brake bracket which is the only part of the dash that had any paint left, that is why I said brown. The seats have been recovered so in my search for a place to find a sample of original material to work with, I removed the cover on the center section of the back seat and found......leopard skin material! I'm not sure if I should laugh or cry, but is sure is interesting. Terry PS Walt we're at about 32" here and -15.

Browniepetersen

SMS was planning to do a run. Good match big bucks.

Glowplug

There are a multitude of methods to obtain the OEM finish you are seeking. Some are very expensive and done by others and some are done by the owner. On a budget, the refinishing can be done with simple tools and minimal cost. The dash in your car is removable. Taking it out of the car and removing all the adornments will leave you with a stamped metal dash. Using your own devices, sanding, paint stripping , bead blasting etc. The current finish can be removed exposing a bare metal base. Taking care you can then sand and prepare that surface for a base coat of paint (spray cans are very acceptable). Using a compatible primer, prime your prepared dash and let it fully cure. Sand this finish with appropriate grades of sand paper and reapply a second coating of primer if needed. Then spray on your base color coat. Let this coating fully dry and with careful attention wet sand the painted surface until it is smooth. Clean and dry the dash from the sanding and prepare for a second color coating.

The second coating of paint will be the basis for the leather grain appearance you desire. Place your painted dash on a work surface where you can press down on the painted areas and also an area where you will be able to add a second coat of paint.

You will need a couple of crumpled sheets of news print and/ or kitchen aluminum foil. These are to be lightly crumpled a set aside. To keep your hands from being painted use latex or rubber gloves.

Give your dash a second coat of color and before it tacks use the paper and aluminum foil to add the leather grain to the surface. Do this ONCE at each area of the dash and let completely dry.

After the second coating of paint has fully dried, sand the surface with 600 or higher number wet sand paper until smooth. Repeat the grain process until you achieve the desired result.

After the final grain is achieved add a compatible clear coating to the dash. Sand that coating and reapply additional coats of clear, sanding between each coat until the smoothness you seek is accomplished.

Practice the technique on a scrap of metal before starting on the dash to get the technique down pat.

snowshoe90aolcom

Gloss or semi-gloss clear? Terry