Die Grinder vs. Dremel
pseftoncomcastnet
Senior Contributor
Trying to knock Montana road dirt and loose rust powder and flakes off my stepdown's frame before undercoating with POR 15 or Zero Rust. Problem is that there are plenty of small spots that I can't hit with a wire wheel in my drill. A Dremel tool with a flexible shaft would be ideal except that the wire brushes are absolutely unsatisfactory. They shoot wires like a porcupine shoots quills, and, even with a light touch at low rpm, they have a life expectancy of about 2 minutes each.
I am thinking that I might move up to a die grinder with a flexible shaft that takes 1/4 inch collet brushes, which would wear better than the Dremel 1/8th inch collet brushes. Has anybody out there tried this? Is it true that the 1/4 inch collet brushes are more substantial? Is a pneumatic or electric die grinder more efficent? Are there any brands that stand out?
Peter S.
I am thinking that I might move up to a die grinder with a flexible shaft that takes 1/4 inch collet brushes, which would wear better than the Dremel 1/8th inch collet brushes. Has anybody out there tried this? Is it true that the 1/4 inch collet brushes are more substantial? Is a pneumatic or electric die grinder more efficent? Are there any brands that stand out?
Peter S.
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Comments
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Dotco or Master Power pneumatic grinders!0
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Those pneumatic grinders would do the trick but they are a bit rich for my budget. One low cost suggestion is the needle scaler Harbor Freight sells for $54. I think you could only use it for something hard and irregular like a frame. Anyone have any experience with such?
Peter S.0 -
I prefer an air drill and a variety of 1/4" wire wheels for the variable speed. Oh, and hearing protection too.
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The safety goggles are probably the most important item. It pays to remember that all of the wire brushes these days are made in china and lose their wires at a most pathetic rate, due to the substandard quality. They hurt bad enough when they impale your arms and forehead. You most certainly don't want one impaling an eye.0
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Also, if you are dealing with any undercoating, most of the older type undercoatings have asbestos in them. Very dangerous...0
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I USED THE scaler Harbor Freight IT WORKED GREAT FOR ME AND I;M STILL USING THE ORIGNAL NEEDELS THAT CAME WITH IT STILL WORKING FINE0
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On YouTube the Needle Scaler looked great at removing paint and heavy flaked rust, but I couldn't see how well it worked on the finer, more powdery surface stuff. Paul, it sounds like it must have done ok on that for you. Working on the front frame sections, my big problem has been getting into corners and working around that spot-welded cradle that supports the battery tray. I'm hoping that the scaler can be maneuvered in tight spots, as it is about 18 inches long counting the needles.
Peter S.0 -
Then, of course, Peter, you can always "cheat". Rust Convertor, Rust Encapsulator and paint as normal. Not the greatest finish, but for obscure chassis sections, it does well in a pinch.0
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Yes, I was definitely planning to cheat in those places no one sees. I've used Zero Rust, an encapsulator after applying the converter-prep solution, but maybe a straight rust converter like POR-15 is better?0
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A big thing that I have noticed working on the 52 Wasp unibody frame sections is the amount of clay dust that keeps falling out between the "sandwiched" section. I think water will only make a slurry with the clay and pack it tight. I'm thinking about cutting out small sections then welding them welding back in after getting all the crud out and treating those areas with picklex and rocker panel wax spray by wand.
Or drill out some holes on the bottom sections with a hole saw, then install plugs when finished?
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Hope you will share your ultimate solution to the impacted debris in the frame. A mixture of road gravel and sand is so tightly packed in the rear wheel arch section of my frame that I can't dislodge it with a plumbing snake or compressed air.
The point about asbestos in the undercoating is well-taken. I'm wondering, too, about some of the mounting pads, such as the pad between the frame and the reinforcement bar that runs up to the horn mount on the firewall, and the seal on the dust panel inside the fender. They look to be rubber with embedded greyish, white woven threads. Not sure why they would use asbestos there, but, when in doubt...
P0 -
Good news about the cotton. Do you have a web page about the pads? Mine are shedding like a dog.0
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I'll send you a pm
peter s.0
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