Bronze oil pump drive gear

BillUSN1

Can anyone provide any feed back on these?
While checking out my distr I noticed a lot of play twisting the rotor. From my search it appears the culprit is the drive gear.
I searched online and found the bronze gear listed from several vendors.
Any one with first hand experience with these or any recommendations?
Thanks,
Bill

Kdancy

Bill, you might better check/change the timing chain as well. Both the timing chain and oil pump gear are the biggest wear items on the stepdown engines.
Dale Cooper carries those parts.

SuperDave

Bill,

 Initially, Hudson used a steel distributor drive gear. It caused wear to the cam. The bronze gear is sacrificial and a darned sight easier to replace  than the entire cam.! As Kerry said, get one from Dale.

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Frankvintagefullflowcom

Bill,
If you are seeing significant rotational "slack" it's not just the drive gear and you certainly aren't turning the entire camshaft, so timing chain slack isn't in the equation. What I suspect you are seeing is motion due to the centrifugal advance mechanism. Although there is likely some gear lash at the cam, it will account for little visible motion at the distributor shaft unless it's really shot.

BillUSN1

It seems like my supposed to be recently rebuilt engine is really not more than a krylon spray can rebuild.
I have about 20-25* crank rotation before the rotor turns and about the same on the rotor before hitting the adv springs.

So I would lean towards all of the above!!

I also noted while setting TDC with the plugs out, that I could physically move the valve thru the plug hole.
Sort of tells me the guides are worn out.
So, can the guides be replaced with the engine still in the car?

Things are adding up fast.

Full gasket set
lapping valve/replace as needed
Possible valve springs
lifters/adjusting screws
oil pump drive/oil pump repair kit(not sure what all comes in the kit?)
engine mounts
Timing chain/gears


At least I know my EFI will work!!

GrimGreaser

Why yes, all that can be done with the motor in the car.  I started down that path until it became clear things were too far gone...  Cracked valve seats.  You can get pretty much all you need from here:  http://21stcenturyhudson.net/ and here http://hudsonmotorcarco.com/.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

IFO, Rebuild is the world's fuzziest term.....and the most meaningless. "Just rebuilt" means "just screwed up" and I cleaned that one up.
Of course, that's not always true, but all too often it is. You will find that there's no where to stop. My prediction is that if you piece-meal it, you will spend more money and suffer more grief than if you just start from the beginning. Take the engine out and do a complete assessment of condition and go from there.
The Morse "Silent Chain" camshaft drive may have been a great idea back in the day when cars were only driven a few thousand miles a year but they really don't last very long before causing the excessive slack you are seeing. Consider the Maas double-row roller chain conversion when you get to that point.
Correct me if I'm wrong (need I ask that?) but I don't think a pump "repair kit" will contain anything but a gear, a pin, and the gaskets.
Good luck,
Frank

RL Chilton

Frank-

I'm not even sure you get gaskets with it . . . I know I didn't.