Technical Bulleltin TS 77-9 - Clutch Flushing

hudsontech

Another tech bulletin from Art Adams WTN collection.

Hudsonly,
Alex B

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Is it just me or does there appear to be some things missing from the procedure described......like running of the engine?
I have found that 3-M Brake Parts Cleaner and likely many other similar products, do a good job of removing the shellac-like glaze on the inserts with the disc "on the bench". I will eventually try using it on an installed unit to see how it goes.......so far I don't have one that needs it.
F

oldhudsons

I am unable to open Alex' bulletin above nor could I find it at his website.
What we always used was 50/50 carbon tet & acetone, I still have some of each but understand carbon tet now very difficult to acquire.
After removing one of the drain plugs would turn flywheel so opening accessible via the hole above the starter. I made from a piece of heater hose a filler tube about 1' long with a funnel in one end & I pared the other down so it would fit into the access hole & not leak ( can of course be used for cleaning the clutch or draining & renewing the fluid; worked great). Would put the car up on jack stands, scoot around underneath on mechanic's "scooter".

hudsontech

Pete - go to the library @ http://hetclub.org/burr/lithomepage.htm - the tech bulletins are filed in the Other H-E-T Literature (at the top of the page).  TS 77-9 is in the Hudson Technical Bulletins, Vol. 1 file.

Hudsonly,
Alex B

PAULARGETYPE

All Hudson Owners Using Fluid-Cushioned Clutch

Proper Clutch Flushing and Lubrication

Following is the method recommended in the Hudson Service Merchandiser, dated Dec., 1951, for draining and

cleaning the clutches

of Hudson cars through 1954, except Jet) in order to remove gum and oxidation deposits which cause clutch

sticking.

It is important that this procedure be closely followed and the engine run sufficiently to warm up the clutch parts

to approximately

100 degrees before flushing. If the parts area t a low temperature, the solvent will not be effective and, on the

other hand, if the

temperature is to high, much of it will vaporize.

Procedure

1. Remove the flywheel pan.

2. Turn flywheel until drain plug is at its lowest position. Remove plug and drain out the old clutch compound.

3. Turn flywheel until clutch filler hold is opposite timing opening in rear engine plate and with a filler gun,

inject one pint of suitable cleaning solvent. (NOTE: In light of this directive being written in 1951 carbon

tetrachloride may no longer be available - a suitable substitute will probably have to found.)

4. Replace plug and with a stick of proper length or clutch pedal depressor, hold clutch in disengaged position.

5. Drain clutch again making sure filler opening is at extreme bottom position to remove all solvent. Turn

flywheel until filler opening is again exposed at the rear engine support plate. Introduce 1/3 pint of new Hudsonite

compound and replace plug.

6. Replace flywheel cover.

Yours very truly,

A. E. Adams

Technical Service Editor

Geoff

There are definitely two steps missing.   After step 4. you need to   turn  the engine several times over a period of a day or two, to allow the mixture to cover all the cork surface.  Then start the engine, remove the stick from the clutch pedal,  and push the pedal in and out several times to  wipe the solvent  from the corks.   Then prop the pedal down again, drain  the clutch and allow time for all solvent to drain out.  Then refill with Hudsonite or DexronIII A.T.F.

PAULARGETYPE

I JUST POSTED THE TECH BULLETIN 

35 Terraplane

Could MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) and acetone 50/50 be used as a flushing solvent?