Hood problem
I can't keep the hood on my 53 to stay closed when driving. After a few bumps in the road it pops up. I have done the adjustment on the rod, gotten a new striker plate, but it still keeps happening. This takes all the fun out of driving and makes me very nervous. Anything thing else I can do? I am about to give up on this hornet from HELL. Thanks for the help.
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Comments
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John-Is it both of the latches, the primary and the secondary, or just the primary (one with the spring)? If it's just the primary, it's usually because the pin is not lined up exactly with the hole (laterally-speaking). There's some adjustment. I usually find that by closing the hood to, but not all the way, you can see how well the pin lines up with the hole an make the necessary adjustments.The other recurring problem is that sometimes the pin needs to be moved out (unscrewed) a little bit to complete a full latching motion with the moveable lower 'C'-section. Loosen the nut on the back and back the pin out a little bit. Then re-try.0
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i had the same problem once, and discover the latch was not going all the way forward. after releasing it.0
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Hi
I had
the same problem , the hood release
cable didn’t go to home even after I had
removed lubricated the cable.0 -
sorry left off this part , make sure the cable adjustment is OK and that it pushed all the way in before you close the hood.
Lee
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That could be it, too. I always have to make sure I push the hood release handle back "home" after popping the hood.0
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The cable to the interior was broken when I got the car. I have a pull handle under the grill.0
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Then unscrew the pin inside of the spring a little bit and it should get a better "bite" into the receptacle.0
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Also check your " snubbers" and make sure they are not so high as to keep the latch from engaging.0
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Thanks. I will give it a try. On further examination, the hood is very hard to press down and the back of the hood hits the cowl. The adjustment is as far forward as possible. Can the hole be elongated?0
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John, is the hood lace in place at the back of the hood?0
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John, it sounds like the entire hood is sitting back (toward the windshield) further than it should. That would explain why the back edge is hitting the cowl (when in fact there should be a gap), and the front latch isn't as far forward as it ought to be.
I am not acquainted with the StepDowns, but isn't there some adjustment where the hood bolts to the hinge? Or where the hinge bolts to the body? Can you not loosen the bolts slightly, gently close the hood and tap it into the correct position, then raise it again so that you can tighten the hinge bolts in their now-correct position?
I would call your attention to page 23 of the 1948-49 Body Service Manual which is on the Club website. I think there is a newer body manual there, but the basic principles for adjustment would remain the same.
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I removed the hood spring on the rod that goes into the stiker plate and now the rod aligns and the hoods open and closes perfectly.
Do I really need the spring?
It appeared that the spring was pushing the rod out of alignment.0 -
As the secondary handle is down below the hood in the grille opening, no, you don't really "need" the spring. Does help to know when the hood is "sprung", but in this case you could live without it. Like I said earlier, the only reason that the spring could be getting in the way is if the rod is not out far enough.0
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Thanks for all the help. The real test will be when I drive it.0
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Doesn't the spring sort of assure that the latch will have the necessary tension to stay latched, as opposed to jiggling open at the most inopportune time? There must have been a reason Hudson put these springs on in the first place. They were careful with their money!
I'd have an authorized Hudson mechanic check this out, next time you're at the dealer's.
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Hello Ken U -- are you still selling stepdown hood release cables? I could use one to fit a 51 Commodore. Trying to avoid having my rust one snap..
Peter sefton0 -
Peter ,If Ken dosen't have them, I do.0
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