Jet Propeller Shaft/Ujoints - any advice?

[Deleted User]

Hello all! I'm in the process of taking off the ujoints to address a leak in this '54 Jet.  Any advice on how to easily remove the drive shaft?

I've referred to the manual and the HETJET.NET web site and can't seem to get the shaft to move front or back enough to get the ujoint down.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

M-

Geoff

Undo the U-bolts holding the joint to the pinion flange,  and push the shaft forward, that's all there is to it.  Some oil will drip out of the back of the transmission. The shaft should move forward on the transmission spline, enabling you to remove the joint from the pinion. 

[Deleted User]

The shaft won't move forward.  I'm guessing the shaft is frozen to the spline.  I guess I'll spray some penetrating lubricant on the shaft/spline and wait a few days. 

How much forward should it go?

THanks!

Geoff

Have you removed the U-bolts from the   around the  joint?  Try levering or tapping the  shaft froward.  I would be surprised if the spline was frozen. 

[Deleted User]

Yes, I've removed the u-bolts from the joints (both front and back) I've been trying to get the shaft to move forward with a crowbar between the back ujoint and the housing.

I can't get it to budge. Won't move forward at all!

Geoff

I'm confused again - there are no u-bolts on the front of the drive shaft, just the U-joint on the shaft.   The front nose of the u-joint slides up  into the spline, and should move a couple of inches. Do you have the car in the air with the wheels hanging down?  This causes the  drive shaft to move forward, and could be your problem. 

Frankvintagefullflowcom

GC is correct in that there are no u-bolts to remove at the front. That's a press job with the shaft out. My recollection is that he rear u-bolts are captive until the shaft has moved forward enough to give clearance.
Question: has the shaft moved forward at all? even a tiny bit? If not, then the bearing caps are just well stuck to the yoke and need some "encouragement". Stick a big screwdriver (or such) between the cross and the pinion shaft nut and pry it forward. It should go plenty far enough and I'm certain that the spline is not seized. I can't imagine that happening while covered in ATF. There's no place to spray any penetrant that would help anyway.
F

[Deleted User]

Okay, here's where I'm at.  The car IS in the air with the rear wheels off the ground.  I've removed the U-bolts that hold the two u-joint caps that don't attach inside the sleeve yoke assembly.  I'm guessing I need to put the rear wheels on the ground and somehow get under the car to remove the u-joints? I don't think there'll be enough room.  Maybe I should jack up the front of the car and remove the front u-joint first?

Geoff

You cannot remove the front U-joint, it is part of the drive shaft.   You need to jack those back wheels up, with the weight still on the springs.   Easy enough done - jack up  high and put axle stands under the  housing each side so you can get under.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Mikey,

I can put ours on a hoist with the rear axle "hanging" on the suspension, remove the u-bolt nuts, slide the front slip-yoke ahead into the transmission and, Bingo! Done.
I lied in that earlier post.......There is a U-joint at the front that can be "split" to remove the whole shaft but it's not absolutely necessary for access to the rear pinion shaft. But.....you really should at least inspect both U-joints. They're fairly inexpensive and it may be a good idea to let your daughter start out on new ones.
If you do remove just the rear U-bolts (split the rear joint), don't pull the slip-yoke out of the trans (Hydra-Matic) or you'll have a real mess of ATF on your floor.
F

Jon B

Don't these U-joints interchange with 1964 (or thereabouts) Chevy?  Or is that only for the full-sized Hudsons?  (They interchange, in my Terraplane).  Maybe someone more knowledgeable than I, can jump in here.

Not that you need a new U-joint, but you should know that they are fairly readily available. 

Frankvintagefullflowcom

All 36-54 including Jet: Spicer 5-132X; NAPA 369.
The list of applications is about a mile long, so they should be readily available everywhere.
F

[Deleted User]

Thanks for the help.

Called Napa and the guy said it's a 341, so I checked on the web site. Once again...
P-U-J 341. So he's shipping 2 into his store. 

Is the Napa computer wrong?

Frankvintagefullflowcom

I doubt it..........lemme check.
F

Frankvintagefullflowcom

I crossed the Spicer no. on the NAPA site and it comes up as the 369. Where the H did I get the 369 number? I was confident enough to write it down on every page of every MPM relating to U-joints that I have.
I stand corrected. Your NAPA guy is correct.
F

[Deleted User]

Whew... didn't want to have him send those back! I appreciate the help!!

Park_W

Jon, you may be remembering that they were on 50's and 60's Ford wagons and light pickups.  Drive shaft guy in Charlotte told me they're still used in many industrial drive shaft applications.  He was surprised that they go back to '36 on the Hudsons.

[Deleted User]

Well the Napa part number 341 was way too small.  Any other hints? I've tried the usual (Napa, Autozone, O'Reilly's) and haven't found anything close.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Attributes
Bearing O.D. : 1.063 "
Bearing Type & Size : 4 Plain, 1.063 "
Dimensions : 3.22 " Over Bearing Cups
Equipment Used On : Allis-Chalmers, Case, Cat, Deere, IH, etc.
Fit / ID Dimensions : 3.22 " Over Bearings
Fitment Dimension : 3.22 " Over Cups
Fits Bearing Dimension : Diameter 1.063 "
Grease Fitting Location : Between Trunions
Lube Fitting Location : Between Trunions
Original Equipment Series : Spicer 1310
Series : 1310
U-Joint Bearing Type : Round Plain
Contents : 1 U-Joint, 4 Lock Rings, 1 Grease Fitting
Contents : 1 U-Joint, 4 Lock Rings, 1 Regular Grease Fitting
Kit Contents : 1 U-Joint, 4 Lock Rings, 1 Regular Grease Fitting

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Well, as usual, it didn't show there the way I put it in the post.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

One more try, then I give up.

Attributes
Bearing O.D. : 0.938 "
Bearing Type & Size : 4 Plain, 0.938 "
Dimensions : 2.41 " Over Bearing Cups
Fit / ID Dimensions : 2.41 " Over Bearings
Lube Fitting Location : Between Trunions
Series : Spicer 1110
Contents : 1 U-Joint, 4 Lock Rings, 1 Regular Grease Fitting
Kit Contents : 1 U-Joint, 4 Lock Rings, 1 Long Grease Fitting

Jon B

I'm sitting here scratching my head.  Why is this drive shaft / U-joint / yoke nut giving "M" such problems?  You don't suppose that an earlier owner replaced the original rear axle with something from another car, do you?  And cobbled together a drive shaft and U-joint from something else, somehow managing to fit them all together?  This might explain why nothing is coming apart or going together as it should!

ESSX28-1

Frank VintageFullflow - try the edit button (to the right of your name) to get your posts looking how you want after you've posted them for 1st time

Frankvintagefullflowcom

I have tried that, although not this particular time, and found that my changes don't appear in the revised version. I give up on this stuff pretty easily.
I'm beginning to think that M's Jet may have some "special" attributes as well.
F

Park_W

mbsxk8, just tell 'em you need a u-joint for a '56 Ford station wagon.

Jon B

Just for fun, can someone describe to "M" what his rear axle should look like (if it's an original Jet one)?  Markings, stampings, etc. that will identify it as original equipment.  If the car has a Ford or Chevy rearend transplant, no wonder the correct Hudson U-joint won't fit, and the driveshaft has no play!

[Deleted User]

Okay gang, here we go!

I lowered the car so the rear wheel leaf springs allowed me to remove the drive shaft. Problem 1 solved.

Now to problem 2:

I took a picture of the rear axle of my '54 Jet.  I've tried to clean up 50+ years of gunk.  I don't see a vent of any type on the top of it, but perhaps I'm just missing something. 

The next picture is of the u-joint that came off the car.  The one on the left is the original I'm guessing. "Spicer USA" is on one side.  "B8" is on the other.  The new u-joint on the right is part number 341, which is what every parts store says I need.

Let the discussion begin! I'll be taking notes...

Park_W

See my suggestion above.

[Deleted User]

Will do.  Any model? HA HA.

[Deleted User]

Went to Napa, the guy couldn't find anything using part numbers I was given in another post on this forum.  But we did order a 369 (I believe) which is from a '56 Ford Squire.  We'll see if that's the right one.

This really has been an ordeal. I hope it (the restoration) get easier...

M-

[Deleted User]

Success!!  The Napa part 369 looked to be an exact fit! I've got both of them on the prop shaft and the shaft back on the car.  NO LEAKS from the rear axle!!

A huge "thanks" to everyone who helped me thru this ordeal.  Now it's on to finish the turn signals and then removing the chrome trim.

Once again, THANKS!!