Sedan rear windows rusted shut

[Deleted User]

The two rear-door windows on my '51P sedan cannot be rolled down because the winding mechanisms are rusted. Any suggestions for getting to them? I have removed all of the upholstery and window frames, and can shoot WD-40 onto each door's cranking mechanism, but both are still frozen. I'm considering cutting access holes through the inside door sheet metal, but that's a last resort.

RL Chilton

Wrong application for WD-40 as that is a water displacement chemical.  If your windows are frozen shut, the moisture factor is a thing of history.  A good penetrating oil (over-the-counter or home brew) is a much better option.  Hose it down once a day for a few days and then give it a try.  If THAT doesn't work, then more drastic measures can be pursued. 

Jon B

Are you sure the problem is in the winding mechanism and not somewhere along the glass tracks?

If it is in the winding mechanism, I'm guessing it will be at one of the small pivots, either for the gears or the various arms (as opposed to the gears themselves).

One thought is to unbolt the winding mechanism from the inside of the door.  If the fault lies anywhere else (like along the glass track), and the actual gears will still turn, you might then be able to actually lower the entire mechanism by turning the handle (after unbolting it from the door).  It will "let itself down"; the winder mechanism will move while the window remains in place.  As the mechanism moves down it will come into view (from behind the metal of the door interior).  You might then be able to access and remove the arms from the slot in the window support.  Having separated the two components you might then be able to slide the window independent of the mechanism.

Or not.

In which case you would have a hopeless tangle of mechanism cocked sideways in your door, everything would still be stuck, and you'd curse the day you ever listened to me.

Hudsonrules

Coka Cola also will work as a penetrating substance, but wash is off  as it has a way of eating more than rust.

 

[Deleted User]

Thanks, guys. Jon's suggestion got me to looking around a bit. The glass is free in the window channel (which barely exists --- another imminent project), but it seems as if what may be frozen is the piece that slides horizontally in the metal channel cemented to the bottom of the glass. (Sorry for the imprecise terminology; my shop, body, and parts manuals are elsewhere). The other day I applied some force to one of the handles and got it to move maybe 10 degrees before deciding that was maybe not a good idea, and today noticed that the flat rod that goes from the winding mechanism up to the window itself was bowed a little.

That suggests to me that the actual cranking mechanism is OK but the piece to which it is connected is rusted firmly to its slot in the channel at the bottom of the glass. I'll try some of the penetrating products mentioned above, but I think I can place a flat piece of thin steel, slipped between the glass and door, against that slider and tap gently on it. Maybe that, and the penetrant, will free it up.

Jon B

I assume that what you're thinking of doing (and I'd agree) is to go in from beneath and squirt some penetrating oil in the channel right where the slide-block is (or whatever you call it at the ends of the bar that holds the glass, and slides in the channel).

Use the little red straw that comes with the penetrating oil, to guide the oil into the thin area around the slide block.  The straw that always gets misplaced.

Once you do that on both sides (in both channels I mean) this may soften any hardened grease and melt any rust.  Then try to find a piece of aluminum or steel bar about 1/16" to 1/8" thick, and maybe 1" to 2" wide, slide it down (as you have suggested) between the glass and the opening in the top of the door, and catch the edge of that glass channel that holds the glass.  Tap downward with a hammer firmly but lightly.  The idea is to set up a vibration that allows that penetrating oil around the slide block, to work itself in.  Go back and shoot some more penetrating oil up there.  Tap again.  You may also have to turn the crank slightly because, now, you have moved that window downward very slightly and you'll break the window gears if you don't compensate by turning them a bit.

Squirt.

Tap.

Squirt

and so on.  You gotta suffer if you wanna sing the blues.

[Deleted User]

PROGRESS REPORT:

Both rear-door windows are out, and the winding mechanisms are sitting in the workshop. So far, no success at getting either of them to move. I put each in a vise and applied rust penetrant (WD-40 brand, but specifically a product for rust) liberally. Tapping on the visible teeth of the large curved gear using a large screwdriver and light hammer seemed to move it a little, so I don't think it's frozen to the frame, but the window crank handle won't budge it. The plan is to let the two mechanisms sit, soaking up the penetrant, for a while.

Meanwhile, I'm going to find some plexiglass or something to duct-tape over those rear-window holes!

Ric West IN

Don't spend any more time on the rusty ones. Post a picture of those needed. Many of us old guys have
more than we will ever use. If I have them, they are yours for the cost of shipping. I'm in West
Michigan, near Grand Rapids. Contact info is in the roster.

Fred "Ric " Pinder

SuperDave

You can put the original window back in the opening and use a short wooden prop to hold it up.

PAULARGETYPE

I WOULD BE USING KROIL IT'S THE BEST THE OIL THAT CREEPS 

Kdancy

Kroil is great stuff!
http://www.kanolabs.com/
https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/orders/order_kroil.shtml

Glowplug

The two rear-door windows on my '51P sedan cannot be rolled down because the winding mechanisms are rusted. Any suggestions for getting to them? I have removed all of the upholstery and window frames, and can shoot WD-40 onto each door's cranking mechanism, but both are still frozen. I'm considering cutting access holes through the inside door sheet metal, but that's a last resort.

Why bother with all the aggravation?  The read door mechanisms for Hudson Stepdowns are interchangeable.  Take the offending pieces from the doors and replace them.  Folks like Lance Walker and others who regularly post here sell used pieces to assist others. With good used parts you should be able to correct this problem in a short days work.