308 head problems

Jimmy

G,day all I've only just found this site plenty of experience here I'm in Western Australia so hudson advice is hard to find there is only about 6 or so step downs in the state I have rebuilt two 308s first one had cracks around exhaust guides did not find them till it got started water just pored out the exhaust machined second block and swapped every thing over Head is alloy 308 cast on the top was faced but gasket is leaking after only a couple of miles. I was told the blocks were early mec lifters but reading on your site first block no B75. Second block. No A135 I notice gasket sets are different what is the difference can I buy an after market head. I got an early engine rebuild kit any help would be appreciated Thanks. Jim

46HudsonPU

Welcome aboard! 

Good to have you.  I'm sure you'll find a wealth of information here - and I'm sure you'll get some advise your build issues.

You may also want to visit the Hudson Essex Terraplane Club website, and consider joining that Club - Members come for the cars, and stick around because of the great folks there!

We hope you enjoy your time here at the Hudson Essex Terraplane 'Open Forum' -

Ol racer

FYI
Im not a real expert anymore butive  been down your road before....Is it seeping out the side and if so Have you tried retorquing the Head?   Heads are 2" originally as measured at any corner. Ive milled Heads .090 safely. Measure head to ensure its not been milled previously. If retorqing doesnt help suggest removing and start over. Sometimes I champfer under each Bolt hole 'very slightly'. Ensure your Block Deck is clean by wiping with spray Brake Kleen. I suggest buying a PermBond Head Gasket from Randy Maas at www.21stcenturyhudson.net 309 267 6157 or Dale Cooper at 513 821 6200. Randy sells a lot of Stock & Hi Performance Hudson Parts and Dale sells many original replacement Engine Parts... This special Gasket is superior to all others and does not come in a gasket Set.

I suggest using Studs, even 7/16" instead of bolts. If must use bolts, clean the threads real good then permatex them when instalingl. Additionally, use a grade 8 washer then put a dab of hvy grease under each bolt head so get 'true torque readings'. Warm up the motor then retorque Cast Iron Head Hot and Aluminum Head Cold 2 or 3 times. Be sure to use correct sequence stating in the middle then rotating in a circling out to rhe ends,

PermBond Gasket installs Dry, but (sometimes) I spray a little Copper Cat on the gasket then let get 'tacky' before installing.

I cant help on engine numbers but if a Hornet Block hyd lifters began in '55 or 56 and dont affect your head leak problem...

TwinH

Jim, Those both seem to be 1955 engines if what your giving us is the casting date from the block below the distributor. 55-6 308's vary slighty from the earlier ones. First they changed from 7/16 inch head bolts to 1/2 inch head bolts so you should have the corresponding head gasket for 55-6 model year. 55-6 also used a shorter crankshaft easily identified by the threaded holes on the crankshaft flange. Earlier 308's used through bolts/nuts for the flywheels. If you indeed used an early rebuild kit it would be for the 7/16's inch bolts. I sure others with much more knowledge than I will chime in here. Australian engines may well be slightly different from what was available stateside too, I just don't know.

Geoff

My understanding is that the only Hornets in Oz were '55-57 models, apart from the odd private import of Step-down l.h.d. models.  

Frankvintagefullflowcom

For what it's worth, my preference is Loc-Tite Head Bolt and Water Jacket Sealer. It's an anaerobic, low strength thread locker and thread sealant combined and intended for head bolts that are installed in through holes such as all but a couple of the holes in that engine. The bad news is that it's a lengthy procedure to re-torque the head because you can't use the stuff until the last re-torque cycle or you will break the seal. IO have done that by using straight water for the first few heat/cool cycles, bringing the torque up to spec, then removing each capscrew, one at a time, and coating it with the sealer/locker, then bringing that one up to final torque and so on. Tedious but effective.
A better solution is to use studs with the Loc-tite sealer/locker and pre stressing them upward to remove the thread "slack" with the goop in place (before the head goes on). Then you can torque the stud nuts without disturbing the thread seal.
The leakage you are experiencing may be coolant coming up the threaded holes from the water jacket and finding its way out the side. The stud/bolt holes don't have a sealing ring around them as do the coolant passage holes and the combustion chamber so if the threads aren't sealed, this may be the source.
My two bits worth.
F

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Oops....I forgot to mention that I drain the straight water while the engine is still a bit warm and use a long tipped blow gun to dry each hole before final installation and torqueing.
F

Jimmy

well there's a lot of good info there I got cam of Randy Maas. Last year so I'll chase him up for the gaskets . The head is still on but was in good condition was faced those no a135 under dissi then 5325000 cwc 2 Using the code I found on the forum it's a later block .I like the head stud idea I got the motors of an old bloke in the wheat belt they had 1967 news papers stuffed in them. Thanks for the help