Blasting and that Stepdown Back Window Glass
pseftoncomcastnet
Senior Contributor
I'm about to take the plunge and have my 1951 Commodore 4 DR media blasted by a pro. The only part of the project that gives me pause is the rear window. If I bust it taking it out, are there any replacement options besides finding a used one somewhere on the internet. Conversely, could it stay on the car if well protected? I plan to take out the interior and instrument panel, as well as the other glass and windshields.
Peter S.
Peter S.
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I am no pro in this area, but I look at it this way. The window has already lasted 63 years. I think if you are going to spend the time and money having it media blasted, wouldn't you love knowing that process includes every possible inch of your ride. The pro would most likely have been in similar situations, and I would hope/believe could use extreme caution and remove it safely. Yes, replacement glass is always an option and I'm sure the Hudson gang here could give you many options should you need a new window. Personally, I say, "Go For It!" Take your time and get an extra set of hands.0
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Yeah, you want them to blast in and around the flange that holds the window rubber; it might be rusting down there. That goes for the windshield too.
There is a trick used by window installers by which a length of stout twine is tied into a loop barely larger in circumference than the window opening. The loop is slipped down between the weatherseal and the metal flange on the body so that just a bit of the loop is hanging out at the top of the windshield Snag the exposed portion with the finger and pull outward, which pulls the overhanging portion of the weatherseal away from the metal flange around the windshield opening. As this happens, press on the glass (from the outside of the car) and it -- and part of the weatherstrip -- start to push through the window opening, IN to the car. As you continue pulling the string (either clockwise or counter-clockwise around the perimeter of the window seal), you can push more and more of the window and seal through the window into the interior of the car. Finally, the whole thing comes out. (Note: in some Hudsons the weatherseal may be backwards, and the window is removed out the FRONT!)
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Or, if you are really concerned about breaking the window (and it is in good shape, i.e. can be re-used) - get a professional to take it out.
Don't even try to save the rubber cut it to get the glass out - it is best to replace that with new rubber anyway, when the window goes back in...
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Peter,
The rear window is removed by carefully folding the inside lip of the gasket and pushing outward.
If your are not reusing the gasket, a box cutter or similar will make the removal easier.
The club online library has the body service manual which can be studied and copied.
I wouldn't attempt this without studying the procedure carefully.
"Ric"0 -
right. It looks about as easy as delivering a baby in the book.
peter s,0 -
Peter, If you attempt it and it breaks, don't worry I've got replacements.0
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dont worry about saving a 60 year old gasket. Cut the gasket, take the glass out and replace with new gasket when you re-install the glass.0
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As stated by some, cut the old gasket as it is probably hardened over the years and not reusable. Doug Wildrick has back window gasket for most all Hudsons. Contact # 317 398 4163. Online catalog @ www.wrphet.com. Good LuckJim SpencerWestern New York Chapter51 Pacemaker Coupe0
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There is a guy on eBay who sells Hudson glass, He has the 48 - 50 rear light available.
I always cut the rubber to remove the glass. New rubber will seal better than keeping the old one in place. One of the problems with the 48-50 is the bottom of the window seal will leak and ruin\stain the small piece of headliner material between the package shelf and the glass.
Another thought... the manual tells you to have the rear light out to replace the headliner. T\I would think this certainly would need to be replaced after having the car blasted
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I have removed my 50's rear window by painting on some D L hand cleaner several days before. It softened the rubber like it was new, although not forever. I reapplied the D L to the rubber several days before reinstalling it. Worked good for me. Bruce
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If you try to remove the back glass past its presumably 60 year old rubber there is a chance you will break the glass. Remove the rubber first and you won't have a problem.Odds are that you won't like what you find rustwise when the back glass comes out, and that is exactly why it needs to come out.0
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I have a 1951 Commodore back glass that I believe is good (at least it was when I put it in the loft). I don't know where you are located but if you find you need one and are close enough to make it feasible, I would be willing to part with it.0
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I would really like to see before and after pics of this process. I'm interested in doing this too...keith0
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Here are a few pics of my 49 when I got it back from being plastic beaded. Don't be surprised at the amount of damage the beaded uncovers.
The car doesn't show any sheet metal on it as I had that done separately. Good thing I did as my straight, slightly used car with 49K mile on it had prior damage on the front fenders and one door. The rear fenders had been bumped and fixed a couple times many years ago too.
Now the care is truly a rust free, bondo free car. I replaced every sheet metal peace, except the trunk lid, with NOS replacements. The few small dents uncovered in the NOS sheet metal were metal finished, not banged out and filled. Took a ling time
Lew
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