Rear stabilizer bolts

51Hudson

Hello all, I got a quick question about the rear stabilizer bolts. I got the drivers side off and replaced the bushing then I moved over to the passenger side and that bolt is all rusted up and won't budge. So I was just going to cut the nut off and replace the bushing and hopefully find a bolt at the store to replace it. I guess my question is, is there anything special about this nut and bolt that I wouldn't be able to replace it with one from the store? Thanks

Glowplug

Just replaced the stabilizer bushings and used grade 8 bolts,washers and nuts found at Harbor Freight.

51Hudson

Ok. Thanks. So I take it there is nothing special with them? I will make sure I get grade 8.

TwinH

My just happened to be handy,so here you go.
1. 5/8" x 3.5" bolt and matching nut. (preferably self locking nut)

2. bushing sleeve: 7/8" OD x 2' long. (Approx. .640" ID or enough for an easy slip fit over bolt)

3. Washer:  5/8" ID, well .640 or so X 1  7/8" OD X  1/8" thick.


 Bolt is installed from the front facing side of the bracket and washer goes between the panhard bar rubber bushing and the rear of the frame bracket. Snug the nut up lightly and call it done.

51Hudson

TwinH thanks so much for the tips and pics. That helps a lot. When I took the drivers side nut off I never took the bolt out cause it never moved even when I took the impact to the nut to get it off. So I thought maybe the bolt was welded on. But I guess it was rusted on. But now I know that I can just cut the passenger side bolt off.

TwinH

Just read Kens post. The pic I posted is whats on my 49.
This pic shows the frame bracket with the left side being facing the front.
I was not aware of a later thicker washer/shorter bushing but now I will check the
"crush" on the rubber closer when I reinstall this.

TwinH

As Ken has warned, the axle mounted stud is there permanently.

The problem with cutting the nut off is that likely the steel spacer is rusted to the bolt
and even with the nut gone that bolt is not coming out until you free it from that steel spacer.
This might be a job for the Ford wrench. (torch)   At the very least I would soak it in your favorite penetrating oil for a few days before trying to remove if it is really stuck. Surely others here have run into this problem before.
Whats the preferred method of freeing this bolt from the spacer?

TwinH

Here's the mount/bushing mocked up without the bar.

TwinH

Thanks for the link Ken. Always learning. Seems the bar on my 49 has the integral forged ends and as I understand now is larger ID than the later bars with welded on ends. I will see how this fits with my new Metro bushings as I'm guessing these were repopped for the later bars. Very interesting!

51Hudson

Ok thanks everyone for your suggestions and pics. Today, after 8 long hours, 10 Pounds of rust on the floor, almost every tool in the garage, a air impact, air chisel, a torch, about a gallon of pb blaster, three trips to the store, we finally got the bolt out and replaced. The bolt was rusted in there really good and then the bolt was rusted to the sleeve. So we had cut and grind it all out. But in the end both bushings are replaced and worth every minute it took to replace.

TwinH

Congratulations! I may have dodged that bullet on the stabilizer bar but I'm well versed
in turning a 20 minute job into an all day deal...

51Hudson

Congratulations! I may have dodged that bullet on the stabilizer bar but I'm well versed
in turning a 20 minute job into an all day deal...

Thanks. Yeah once we got the bolt out it only took us about 10 minutes to put it back together. Sometimes you get lucky other times you don't.