Hornet 308 Oil Pan Leak

Jake_N_His_Hornet

So after a cruise this last weekend I realized significant oil leakage out of my '51 Hornet, by the time I got it back in the garage it was like someone was pour oil out of a quart onto the floor. Closer inspection revealed that I have a puncture hole in the pan (I'm guessing from a gravel rock) 

Anybody have advice on the best way to fix a hole in the oil pan? The hole is maybe the size of a small pencil eraser. 

I imagine the best way is to remove and clean the pan and have it welded up, If I do hat, anybody know where I can get an oil pan gasket? Would RTV  Silicone be enough?

Thanks,

Jake

Park_W

I'd take the pan to a radiator shop and have them solder the hole.  Dale Cooper in Cincinnati has all the engine gaskets as well as all internal parts, water and fuel pumps, etc..  Call him at 513-821-6200.

Ol racer

FYI
That can happen. It best to remove the pan then have a patch brazed on at any garage that has a torch or welder and Use a new Gasket.

Jake_N_His_Hornet

So next question, how the heck to I get the oil pan out? I tried last night and it didn't go so hot, I'm thinking about taking the motor mount loose and hoisting the engine up. Any input out there?

russmaas

Dropped the center steering bracket, take the three bolts out and push it down out of the way. May have to rotate the crank via balancer to clear pan also

Glowplug

Hudson's Mechanical Procedures manual also provides the following instruction to mechanics to remove the oil pan for service of the lower components.

The front suspension has a lower cross member which attaches to the front frame stub with six (6) bolts. These bolts when replaced with 6" long replacements allow that cross member to be dropped enough to remove the oil pan and to gain access to all the main and rod bearings.   I do not know if an after market company manufactured a kit for these bolts, but in 1970 a rod knock developed in my 54 Hornet motor.  I could not find bolts that matched the suggested length so purchased longer bolts, cut them and threaded them to the proper thread pattern. Following the mechanical procedures instructions, I was able to drop the suspension cross member, remove the pan and removed and replace a bad rod bearing. 

The suspension cross member has two pointed locating pins which assure the suspension returns to the appropriate alignment.

I used those bolts one time later to clean a pan... they have been in the top drawer of my roll around box for 40 years.  

 

Lee ODell

Oldfarmer

Thanks for the tip. Good information to have handy in tool box.

Lee O'Dell

DavidC

Ditto what Park and Russ said. Took a pan off in a small garage after dropping center steering bracket and rotating crankshaft as I slid it out rearward so crankshaft lobes would clear. Gasket from Dale- make sure you get new oring for oil pickup. Pound down flat any high points on the pan mating surface usually caused by overtightened bolts. Use plenty of RTV in corners, less on long flats. At least two torque cycles to get it on, then a third torque sequence after a long heat cycle. Good luck, not easy to get it sealed.

If it was anything like mine, it may have slowly rusted through from a small amount of water in pan.
Dave