Underside and brake drum paint color

Hienkel429

Hey all, 

Just getting an idea of what I will be facing.  What is the "accepted" color for underside, frame rails, inside of fenders, drums etc...  Was thinking somesort of black.  Potentially rustoleum hammered finish.  It seems like it would hide pits and other surface abrasion really well on the underside of the car.  Thoughts?  

Hope you all had a good Thanksgiving. 

- Ray

Lance

You could use Rustoleum, or P.O.R 15 depending on your preferences. Some folks actually powder coast as well. My own preference is for a black color but if that dosen't work for you you could pick another color. I use   P.O.R 15 for rust protection and it works just great. Just don't use it on surfaces where the sun can shine on it.For  those areas that are more of a surface area I use Rustoleum satin -non gloss finish. Also, if using P.O.R make sure to use gloves. If you get that stuff on your hands be prepared to wait a week or so for it to come off. There is no solvent to remove that stuff from your skin.

37 CTS

When using P.O.R. 15 and similar products , use some saran wrap under the lid so it can be opened again

Also store in refridgerator to make it last longer in the can.    Gloves and old clothing every time .

Hienkel429

POR gets some good reviews but the price and UV sensitivity has put me off... at least for now. Jury for me is still out.  Thanks for the input  

- Ray

Geoff

Hudson under-colour was the same as Model T Ford selection - anything you like as long as it was black.  And they used chassis black, without undercoat, which was a semi-gloss finish.   I have just done a '29 Hudson chassis, which I had sand blasted, and the  blaster primed with some sort of black semi-gloss undercoat, which I oversprayed with Quick-Dry enamel.   Probably your best bet for the drums would to use a Brake caliper aerosol  black which is high temp.   Ordinary paint will blister with the heat generated, (dependign  on your driving style).   POR15  is goo dof rust, but you have to paint it before it goes hard or nothing sticks to it, and if you leave it  on it's own it soon goes a very dull matt finish.

Lee ODell

Ray

Don't forget to protect all male and female threads. Especially with POR 15 or powder coat. It is tough stuff and VERY, VERY, VERY, VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE FROM THREADED SURFACES. POR 15 rust preventative paint does have another paint that will paint over the POR 15 that will not oxidize. POR 15 rust preventative paint by itself will eventually get a light film even in indirect sunlight. But it wipes off easily to restore luster but who wants to crawl around under their car to clean it once in awhile.

As a teenager in High School I was willing to clean my gloss white painted 49 Ply suspension front and rear every Friday afternoon so it would shine in the night going to the local hangouts. I wouldn't dream of doing something like that today. Well, may be dream. To hard getting up off the ground anymore. lol

Paints with hammer tone leaves a uneven texture look you are looking for. But may also leave the impression it was painted to covering up a lot of rust or painted over road grime that was not removed.. Who knows, that may start a whole new trend to paint frame and suspensions.

For brake drums I use hi temp black paint. My preference. I've seen others painted about every color under the rainbow. Pick a color you will be happy with. But remember!!! PROTECT ALL DTHREADED SURFACES!!!

Lee O'Dell


Lee O'Dell

DavidC

Be careful with thick coatings on brake drums, some experts believe they can interfere with heat dissipation

Lklemm1

Eastwood makes a great extreme chassis black or better a 2k product that is tough and cheaper than por. It comes in satin, matte or glossy.

mdwhit

I have used Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Satin Black on every chassis part I have rebuilt, and I really like it. What I also learned early on however, is that the paint is really no more durable than the primer underneath. For a while, I used Rust-o-leum (sp) red oxide primer on clean etched metal, but the top coat would easily chip off. Once I quit using the Rust-o-leum, that problem seemed to go away. I think the problem was because of the oily base of the Rust-o-luem.

Also, although I like the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Satin Black for most chassis parts, I use a high heat resistant semi-gloss black for the brake drums. Last time I used paint from Lowe's that was made for Barbecues. It came in a black satin finish and looks great.