Clutch

pmlmbigpondcom

G'day all

I am at a loss to understand the clutch throw out mechanism and seal

Please see attached photos

Does the throw out bearing pictured incorporate the only seal needed ?
Or are the items in one of the other photos also used ?
If the throw out bearing seal slides inside the protruding steel neck of the cover plate, I presume it should be polished inside that "neck"

Also, should the flywheel be sealed to the crank with goo or something to prevent the hudsonite from seeping out ?

Should the clutch plate be soaked prior to installation or will that promote "sticking to the flywheel" during the time until it becomes useable on the road ?

As usual looking forward to comments

Thanks

Phil

bob ward

Phil, the neck rotates around the seal and the seal moves up and down in the neck when the clutch is used.

There should also be another seal that fits on the inside of the throw out bearing carrier and seals against the input shaft. 

Huddy42

Yes, it is better to soak the plate in ATF before installation otherwise you will have to top the fluid up after a short time as the corks soak up the fluid,then there is not enough to make a smooth clutch .1/3 pint of Dexron 3 available from any parts store.the neck of the pressure plate should be smooth with no scoring.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Phil,
You are correct that the inside of the cover "snout" must be well polished and free of defects. Not only does the seal move fore and aft, the seal remains stationary (non-rotating) whilst the cover rotates at engine speed. This results in a peripheral speed of ~650 fpm per 1000 engine rpm.....about a quarter mile per minute at cruising RPM, so you can imagine how quickly the seal would be eaten up if the snout is nicked or rough.
Yes, the flywheel must be sealed at the crank-flange.
Be especially careful when installing the trans/bell-housing/throw-out brg ass'y onto engine and the clutch cover. It's very easy to "roll-over" the lip of the outer seal......very bad. I'd guess about half of those I've dis-assembled had that lip folded over backward at some point. Lube the seal and snout at assembly time so it doesn't run dry at initial start-up.
My guess as to the identity of the items in the left-most photo: Inner and outer rear wheel bearing seals and a crank snout spacer that goes between the timing gear/sprocket and the vibration dampener.
F

Ric West IN

1st pic looks like timing cover seal and spacer.

 

 

SuperDave

delete 

Frankvintagefullflowcom

Ah! A better guess than mine considering the functional relationship of those items.

bob ward

Phil, a way to avoid seal damage during gearbox installation is to fit a pair of guide bolts to the engine. Screw headless bolts into the top two bell housing threads, have them 4" or so long and one slightly longer than the other. You need a 7/16" and a 3/8" UNC for that engine.

Frankvintagefullflowcom

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pmlmbigpondcom

Many thanks to all

Now assembled and in chassis

Thanks

Phil