newbie needs some help with a 48 stepdown project.

Instigator

A few years ago I bought a modified 48 Hudson Commodore 6 with a nailhead Buick and a dynaflow transmission. It had been taken apart and was not able to be driven. Before starting the project, I joined the club and have recently started reading the forum (lots of information). I'm writing to pick your brains for ideas, particularly those of you that have or are working on a like project. I decided to go with a Fatman frame clip, Buick engine, 700R4 trans and a 9" rear. I have removed the front sheet metal, engine, transmission and some other related items. After taking the engine out and starting to tear it down, I found an 8" long crack in the block hidden behind the starter. I located another 401 Buick and have just finished rebuilding it. I have cut the front end of the frame off, installed the new clip and modified the existing crossmember for clearance. The motor and transmission mounts are made, but not installed. I'd like to get some ideas on mounting the rear and any other problems that others have run into. I'm in my late sixties and have been playing with car for many years, but have found there is always more to learn. I also need to know where to get some parts like rear springs, windshield wiper cables, inside and outside door handles, etc. Thanks for your help and ideas.

Kdancy

Welcome Instigator.
What is your location?

Jon B

Welcome to the Forum, Inst!

I can't answer your questions about the modifications (I'm sure you'll get some answers here, soon!).  But as to the "original-type" parts there are a lot of vendors -- both for used parts and reproductions.

As an H-E-T member you can sign up at the H-E-T website at no cost -- maybe you already have signed up -- and then you can use 100% of the web resources.  At the "Links" drop-down (under CLUB / INFO) you'll see an entry for "Hudson Vendors".  Go there for some online links for "new" parts.  For "used" parts, consult the White Triangle News classified ads.  If you haven't started receiving the WTN yet, you should, soon.  There's new stuff there too, of course.  Here is a link to my web list of repro Hudson parts; these are often made by individuals who might be repro-ing a handful of itmes (as opposed to companies that have catalogs or websites).  But I list the "companies" on my page, as well.  http://www.detailedconcepts.net/Repro_Table.pdf

RL Chilton

Welcome to the forum!  You can contact Wildrick Restoration (317-398-4163) for the cables, door handles or Lance Walker hornetllw@yahoo.comHET (drop the HET).   

For the rear springs, you can get a nice reproduction set from Randy and Russ Maas at:  russ@21stcenturyhudson.netHET (drop the HET).

Let me know if that doesn't pan out, there's lots of other places to check.  

Instigator

Thank you for the replies. I am located in north central Pennsylvania, outside of Jersey Shore. I will contact the suppliers that Jon B and Russell listed.   

Jon B

By the way, you are located only an hour from Bloomsburg, Pa. -- home of the Creasy garage and "Hudson central" for that portion of Pennsylvania.  You'll find that Nelson and Larry Creasy speak the Hudson language.  If your drive train was original they'd have no problem in servicing it.  (Actually, they're pretty good, no matter what brand of engine and transmission you have -- modern or old -- but they are very well versed in Hudsons!)

They also have a bunch of parts.  There is a big three-day Hudson meet there every September, that draws dozens of carloads of Hudson people.

Instigator

I've been to Bloomsburg for many shows thru the years, but never knew about the Hudson meet. When I get the dates for this, I will definitely put it on my list of places to go this summer. I had gotten the Creasy name from someone a while back, but haven't tried to contact them yet. Thanks again.

Ol racer

FYI
Sounds like you have the hardest job under way already so the Rear is pretty easy in comparison.Ive utilized Ford 9" Rear's in all my Hudson's. 8.8 Rears are good choice too. They are light weight with large bearings and are very Strong...They have plenty of Ratio's with Sure Grip (Posi) and the Yoke mates up nicely. Most importantly, they have the same Bolt Circle as Hudson, (which really doesnt matter unless your front Hubs are still 4 1/2"). GM Rears are 4 3/4 BC though.You will need to find the narrowest rear then cut the spring perches and reweld the same angle as the Hudson perches.Weld slowly so dont warp housing; dont need much weld...
Actually, Narrow Ford rears are getting real hard to find so I have a local Machine shop narrow any width Rear then re- spline the stock axles, which does not cost much and works out very well.                                                          PS: J ump to the St Rode Section and those Gys are talin about instalin Different Rears

The rear springs narrow slightly inboard toward the front but does not effect the driveline or welding the perches straight. I dissemble the leaves to inspect then add or replace a leaf if necessary along with new center bolts. Originally the leaves are wrapped so I put nylon sliders in the ends of the leaves, grease them, and rewrap with racer tape. Ive found installing a 2" Lowering Block gives a nice stance. A number of Shocks will interchange. Ive also cut out the center Carrier Bearing cross member toutilize a one pc GM driveshaft.

 Additionally, Ive welded retangular tubing Sub Frame connetors to my stepdown for add ridgitity, similar to the ones they sell for Camaro's, etc in case I want to do a Burnout....Lastly a 10" x 29 tall tire will fit under the wheel wheel and shirts with springs in stock location ...

Instigator

Just the information I was hoping to find. One question I have concerning the rear spring hanger. Both of mine looks like a "U" shaped bolt that is laying on it's side and goes through the frame at the top and the spring eye at the bottom. This takes the place of one side and the two through bolts of a conventional spring shackle, but there is no other shackle side part. I don't know if there is a part missing or if this is factory. In any case I think I should strengthen this area some way. I can't send you a picture at this time because I'm having some camera problems. One of my friends said I should be using higher ratio gears (3.50 or taller) due to having an overdrive trans. Any ideas? Thanks.