Clutch pedal adjustment and seal??

airbrushguy

My '49 262 Super Six clutch pedal is tight against the floor. Photos I've seen show a spring and a pad to seal the hole, I don't have either. Where can I get the pedal seals for the brake as well as the clutch and does the fact that the pedal is all the way against the floorboard mean it can't be adjusted anymore and needs replacing?

Thanks in advance.

Lee ODell

Doug Wildrick - Hudson Rubber Parts WRP has the pads.

Online catalog www.wrphet.com

You will find a picture of them in the cowl category. Part #544


Lee O'Dell

Geoff

It could be that you have run out of adjustment, meaning the clutch plate is worn.  Whatever, unless you have some clearance, the clutch is likely to start slipping if it is not fully engaged.  Have you tried adjusting the  throwout  lever?

Geoff 

Lance

There is also the possibility that the main engagement frame rail spring may be broken if the pedal goes to the floor and does not come back.

airbrushguy

Before I confuse everyone, what I'm saying is:  At rest, the clutch pedal is up as high as it can go against the floorboard. I believe there should be a spring and rubber seal holding it away from the floorboard, there is none.

There also is no free play at the top. can this be attained through adjustment or has it been adjusted to the max?

Thanks

airbrushguy

Doug Wildrick - Hudson Rubber Parts WRP has the pads.

Online catalog www.wrphet.com

You will find a picture of them in the cowl category. Part #544


Lee O'Dell

Does anyone sell the springs or could someone describe their size?

Thanks

Jon B

Let me understand this.  At rest, the clutch pedal is up (roughly where you'd expect to see it) and the operation of the clutch is normal, is that correct?

When you say there is no adjustment, do you mean that the clutch is starting to slip when the pedal is all the way up?  How far down would you have to push the pedal before it engages the clutch?

Yes, there should be a spring and rubber seal at the bottom of the arm or rod (not sure what it's called) to which the pedal is welded.  The round rubber seals are available (apparently from Doug Wildrick).  The springs are of the same design as the springs that fit between the door upholstery panel and the metal inner door, right where each of the window cranks.is attached.  They look like this:



They are fairly common for many cars although the size may be different.  You can buy them inexpensively from antique car parts places.  Probably any number of Hudson parts vendors have them hanging around in their used parts boxes.

airbrushguy

Thanks Jon, I'll have to check when I get home to see how far down I have to push the clutch before it engages.

I do know that it doesn't grab until the pedal is almost all the way up. And there is no free play at all.

Thanks for the info about the spring, I probably have a few of the window crank springs laying around, however until I get the clutch replaced or adjusted there is no place to put it on the arm as it is.

I haven't been able to get under the car yet because of a back problem, but when I can, will I be able to adjust the arm to gain free play and get the pedal down a little?

Thanks

Lee ODell

Spring is not there to push the pedal away from the floor board. It is there to press the seal pressed against the toe board (fire wall) when pedal is released.

You need to adjust the clutch pedal linkage to increase the pedal clearance between the clutch pedal and floorboard (engine side not interior side). The pedal should not be against the firewall. There should be 1 1/2" clearance between the floorboard and rear face of pedal arm going to clutch to assure full disengagement of the clutch.

Hudson Mechanical Procedure Manual, Clutch Section, shows a clear picture of clutch pedal distance from engine side toe board with spring and seal.

I hope this helps
Lee O'Dell

airbrushguy

Got under car and took photo of area I think you're talking about Lee. If you notice the linkage seems to have clean threads above the nut, as if it has been adjusted lately.It seems to have had the nut adjusted down the shaft.

To effect the closeness of the pedal to floorboard and thus bring the pedal arm further away from the firewall side, should I go in the other direction and move the nut up the linkage arm?

Thanks for your help.

airbrushguy

I guess I'll just run it back up until I have free-play and then see how it effects it's engagement/disengagement.

Glowplug

Parts wear out/failure are also considerations. If the adjustments found in section 7 of the maintenance manual do not correct the problem begin a careful search for worn or broken parts. Check the attached picture to see one area that will create a problem adjustment will not fix. The cross shaft bushings, rubber cross link pads will also create adjustment problems.

Lee ODell

airbrushguy

Bettie and I have been gone for two weeks to take care of her sister who had operation. Sorry I was gone when you posted the picture. That adjustment is what I was referring too.

Old farmer and Ken posted some additional good information to help

How is the clutch working now?

You do not have to wait for a clutch job to install spring and pad. There is a nut at the bottom of clutch pedal. Remove the nut, then holding the pedal securely, With a board or metal drift and hammer, knock the arm off the pedal. The pedal is a serrated taper fit so two people make it easier to remove. One holding pedal and other with hammer. Then put the spring, washer and pad on pedal, reinstall pedal and tighten nut.

Same procedure for brake pedal pad and spring replacement.

Lee